Following Devastating Wildfires, One of Australia’s Most Iconic Lodges Has Been Rejuvenated

The Dinogo Perspective

Australians refer to sunbathing as being 'flat out like a lizard,' which perfectly describes my state as I relax by the pool at Southern Ocean Lodge’s newly established spa. I gaze upon a striking landscape of sand dunes adorned with vibrant green coastal flora, punctuated by thousands of pale sticks reaching skyward. These 'sticks' are the charred remains of trees that were set ablaze during a wildfire that ravaged Kangaroo Island in January 2020, reducing much of Australia’s third-largest island to ash, including the renowned luxury lodge.

The scene is hauntingly beautiful. I learn that this stone terrace stands on the very spot where the fire ignited, triggered by lightning strikes that unleashed a towering 300-foot wall of flames across the island, devastating a significant portion of its wildlife, including countless koalas and kangaroos in their natural environment.

Often referred to as “Australia’s Galápagos,” this remote, windswept island is seven times larger than Singapore and is located 70 miles south of Adelaide, separated by a tumultuous ocean strait that stretches as far as Antarctica. It has always attracted visitors for its wildlife, rugged cliffs, secluded beaches, and wild surf, but it was only with the vision of eco-lodge pioneers James and Hayley Baillie, who opened Southern Ocean Lodge in 2010, that the island gained stylish accommodations to complement its unique beauty.

I visited Southern Ocean Lodge a few months prior to the fire, and now, four years later, I find myself back at the lodge, which has been entirely reconstructed in the style of the beloved original, complete with thoughtful enhancements, such as the redesigned spa and suites oriented towards the ocean to provide better views of the roaring surf and rugged coastline.

The Australian landscape has an incredible ability to regenerate after a fire, and it’s remarkable to witness young eucalyptus trees and other small plants sprouting vibrant green leaves. The horticulturists at Southern Ocean Lodge have propagated 45,000 new plants from cuttings taken from existing plants on the property, many of which are thriving. The island's wildlife has also made a comeback, including platypuses, echidnas, seabirds, seals, sea lions, and the world’s only genetically pure colony of Ligurian bees. Although I didn’t see him, there is a surviving kangaroo with one burnt ear that hops around the lodge, seeking companionship. The staff affectionately call him “Sol,” which is also the lodge’s nickname.

Who is this experience for?

Southern Ocean Lodge is ideal for couples, friends, and multi-generational families looking for a getaway where luxury blends seamlessly with the great outdoors. The property’s new Baillie Pavilion is particularly well-suited for groups traveling together, designed to feel like a private residence, featuring four king bedrooms, a central lounge with a fireplace, and outdoor terraces that come with plunge pools.

The Setting

The lodge is perched along the ridge of limestone cliffs that overlook Hanson Bay, situated approximately between the island’s two main attractions—the Remarkable Rocks, known for their sculptural forms reminiscent of Henry Moore, and the sizeable sea lion colony at Seal Bay. It is the sole property on a 220-acre nature reserve. Guests enter the Great Room, which functions as a lounge, lobby, and restaurant, and it provides an awe-inspiring welcome with a panoramic, unobstructed view of the coast through 180 degrees of floor-to-ceiling glass. Boardwalks link the lodge to the cliffs and beaches. While the surf can be treacherous, the sandy cove at Penguin Bay is accessible, and the shallows can be swum in with caution. Be aware that the swells from Antarctica keep the water temperature chilly all year round.

The Accommodations

The lodge has embraced the kangaroo theme in an elegant manner. Upon entering my suite, named “Ekalta” after historic shipwrecks from the perilous waters, I am welcomed by images of kangaroos leaping across the stylish curved banquette lounge, adorning coasters at the bar, etched into the safety glass of the windows, and crafted into chocolates, which serve as my welcoming gift. The suites feature floor-to-ceiling glass walls facing the ocean, allowing only curious seabirds and the occasional wallaby to intrude on my privacy. I feel no need to draw the blinds—lying in bed at night and gazing at the brilliant southern stars twinkling against the velvet sky is an experience not to be missed. Each of the 21 suites includes a bar, well-stocked fridge, fireplace, cozy knitted bathrobes, and a deep soaking tub with a view. With no TVs or phone reception, I connect to the outside world through Wi-Fi.

Culinary Offerings

The dining experience is proudly local. Ingredients that cannot be sourced nearby come from South Australia, with occasional imports from further afield. Chef Tom Saliba and his team collaborate with local artisans and producers, sourcing sustainable ingredients from the island, including barramundi, pheasant, partridge, and native fruits like quandong. The ever-evolving menu might feature dishes such as kingfish tataki with lemon myrtle, octopus with finger lime, and a cornflake ice cream sandwich with honeycomb. Local KI honey is a staple at breakfast and also featured in the spa, where you can enjoy a nearly edible 90-minute Ligurian Honey and Almond Wrap treatment. Guests gather around the communal long table in the Great Room 24/7 to sample wines from local vineyards Springs Road and False Cape, as well as enjoy Kangaroo Island Spirits and beers from KI Brewery.

Personnel and Hospitality

The Baillies are pioneers of laid-back luxury in Australia, so don’t anticipate overly formal service; instead, a youthful and diverse staff ensures that guests feel right at home—albeit in a lavish setting. With a staff-to-guest ratio of 66 to 58, the focus is on building personal connections. Some excursion guides also serve as wait staff in the restaurant or appear at wilderness stops with trays of scones, jam, and cream. Every interaction fosters a sense of camaraderie.

Inclusivity

The Flinders Suite offers wheelchair accessibility and is located near the main lodge, featuring level flooring and an adapted bathroom. While the lodge's touring vehicles provide ample seating, they lack ramps or lifts, meaning guests must be able to step up into them. Wheelchairs and mobility aids will need to be folded and stored in the vehicle's trunk.

Environmental Commitment

From its inception, the goal was to establish a retreat that excels in sustainable, nature-based tourism, creating a genuine sanctuary. The new construction has allowed the Baillies to enhance the original Southern Ocean Lodge by evaluating every aspect of the operation for true sustainability, including rainwater harvesting, waste minimization, and upholding ethical standards throughout the supply chain. The lodge operates on a hybrid solar and battery system, which has cut energy consumption by an additional 25 percent. Designed to be highly efficient and LEED-certified, the building optimizes natural weather patterns, featuring louvres in breezeways that significantly reduce the need for air conditioning in summer and hydronic floor heating powered by a heat pump, combined with double-glazed windows that harness sunlight for winter warmth. To address fire safety concerns, advanced sprinklers and elevated bushfire safety systems, along with a landscaped wilderness buffer surrounding the property, ensure that the redesigned lodge is, as James Baillie puts it, “better, smarter, and ready for the future.” Starting at $2,273, all-inclusive