For a True Local Experience, Head to Zippy’s

In Hawai‘i, local food embodies comfort. It’s the beloved dish your mom perfected and the unique meals your friend’s family prepared, showcasing the diverse backgrounds of Hawai‘i’s residents. Tourists rarely set out to explore local cuisine beyond poke and shave ice, but mentioning a local favorite like chicken long rice — a flavorful dish with glass noodles in ginger-infused chicken broth — can boost your street cred among Hawai‘i locals. Embracing local food reveals a readiness to experience Hawai‘i in its true, eclectic, nostalgic, modern, and delicious essence.

Zippy’s stands out as a quintessential spot for local food, a family-run, uniquely Hawaiian chain with 24 locations founded in 1966, right after Hawai‘i became the 50th state. It blends classic American diner charm — with rotating specials, endless coffee, and cozy banquettes — with a dive into Hawai‘i’s rich, multi-ethnic, blue-collar food heritage often overlooked by tourist promotions.

At Zippy’s, ‘local’ means savoring Hawaiian laulau and kālua pork, Portuguese bean soup brimming with linguica, ham, and veggies, Japanese chicken katsu and teriyaki beef, Chinese sweet-sour spareribs, and Puerto Rican pastele stew. Staying true to its diner origins, Zippy’s also serves up hearty Americana like burgers, patty melts, spaghetti, apple pie, all-day breakfasts, turkey a la king, and ice cream floats.

Even American favorites get a Hawaiian twist. Classic burgers are complemented by “teri burgers” with teriyaki glaze; fried rice with Spam and green onions is a breakfast staple; and ice cream treats can be enhanced with tropical liliko‘i or coconut syrups. While Zippy’s mostly sticks to its traditional offerings, its R&D chef experiments with local flavors, occasionally hitting the mark (like miso garlic chicken) and sometimes missing (like the pastrami Zip dog).

It’s a hefty menu, but it captures 150 years of Hawai‘i’s culinary evolution. Locals, especially those from out of town, find comfort in Zippy’s, a place where Hawai‘i simply exists without the showmanship. The focus is on locally sourced ingredients (beef, eggs, fruits, and veggies) without flaunting it, and it remains blissfully unaffected by Instagram trends; if there’s any garnish, it’s a nostalgic sprig of parsley from the 1970s.

You’ll encounter a true slice of Hawai‘i life at Zippy’s: from old-timers in rubber slippers and Vegas-themed tees, to downtown professionals in stylish aloha shirts and loafers, bingo-playing “aunties,” skaters, knitting millennials, and construction workers on break. Even politicians drop by, not just to mingle with locals but to experience the genuine atmosphere, sometimes bringing their own parents along.

With locations on O‘ahu, Maui, and Hawai‘i Island, Zippy’s began on O‘ahu and remains most prevalent there. Each location, many operating 24 hours, offers both a takeout counter and dine-in options, though the full-service restaurants provide a more classic diner experience. Regardless of the format, both offer an authentic taste of local life.

Zippy’s addresses everyday needs in Hawai‘i: from what to bring to an office potluck (a pūpū party platter from the takeout counter), to where to host a family dinner when no one wants to cook, to where to go post-concert when other places are closed, and what to take to picnics, sports practices, and other casual gatherings.

More than just a convenience, Zippy’s is a hub of local life. In Honolulu, a local play humorously depicted life as a routine involving the grocery store, drugstore, and Zippy’s, a sentiment the audience found all too familiar. When I offered to bring comfort food to a well-traveled friend grieving a recent loss, she specifically requested Zippy’s fried chicken, chili, white rice, and cheese-laden chili, preferably hot.

Zippy’s sees a diverse cross-section of Hawai‘i’s population. Mornings bring a flurry of professionals picking up spicy Portuguese sausage and eggs on their way to work. By evening, families fill the restaurant, enjoying dinner specials like crispy chicken katsu with Japanese curry or zesty Filipino pork adobo. Throughout the day, college students indulge in haupia chocolate pancakes, while older patrons savor traditional dishes like oxtail soup and Hawaiian tripe stew, spending hours chatting. The daytime crowd takes their time.

If you’re in the mood for a chat, you might encounter Hana Trinidad, a retired dance troupe director who visits Koko Marina Zippy’s every Tuesday morning with her “crafting ladies.” During Christmas, Trinidad and her friends, including Drusilla Tanaka and Carole Sullivan, crochet decorations for the store’s tree. They’ve been enjoying Zippy’s turkey-neck soup, miso chicken, and irresistibly crispy-fried chicken and chili for nearly 20 years. This could be the heart of Hawai‘i.

Breakfast

Loco moco. Hawai‘i’s robust, Asian-inspired twist on steak and eggs features a hamburger patty topped with over-easy eggs, served on rice with a savory gravy. While upscale versions with foie gras or gochujang can be found at trendy spots, Zippy’s offers the classic recipe that locals fondly remember from lunch wagons in their childhood.

Chilled papaya with lemon. Comfort food doesn’t always have to be heavy. At Zippy’s, you’ll often find diners enjoying the simple yet delightful Hawai‘i breakfast of a fresh papaya half with a wedge of lemon. This pairing of ripe, sun-kissed papaya with citrus is a quintessential Hawaiian flavor experience. Occasionally, Zippy’s also offers a tropical papaya ice cream sundae, which is worth trying.

Lunch

Zip Min. While Japanese ramen has gained global popularity, saimin, a unique local blend, is a Hawaiian specialty. Zippy’s Zip Min features a hearty mix of Chinese BBQ pork (char siu), vibrant Japanese fishcake (kamaboko), egg omelet, shrimp tempura, wontons, and greens all nestled in a bowl of saimin noodles. Unlike ramen, saimin noodles are made with egg and a higher-ash flour, giving them a chewier texture and richer flavor. Zippy’s was a key early supporter of Sun Noodle, now renowned for its customized noodles. Founder Hidehito Uki dreams of sharing saimin with the mainland U.S. before retirement.

Zip Pac. Zippy’s version of the Japanese bento is a packed delight of proteins and carbs, featuring teriyaki beef, fried fish, Spam, and chicken served over rice with a bright yellow radish pickle. It’s the ultimate choice for the classic Hawai‘i dilemma: “What’s the best thing to bring to the beach?” A Zip Pac is a robust meal, perfect for refueling after a day of sun and surf.

Dinner

Kālua pork and cabbage. Traditionally, kālua pig is slow-cooked in an underground oven with banana leaves for Hawaiian feasts, but the next-day kālua pork with cabbage is a true gem. The smoky, earthy flavors of the pork meld beautifully with the crisp, slightly sweet cabbage, creating a dish that transcends its simple components. This flavorful combination occasionally appears as a daily special, so it’s worth checking in advance or visiting the website.

Oxtail soup. This classic beef cut is experiencing a revival, and Zippy’s version of Hawaiian oxtail soup is unmatched. Simmered to perfection, the broth becomes rich and aromatic with hints of anise, and is finished with peanuts, shiitake mushrooms, and cilantro. It remains a standout dish, rivaling any other in the state for its deep, satisfying flavor.

Lavonne Leong covers food, science, and business from Honolulu, all while battling her Ka’u coffee habit.Kent Nishimura is a Honolulu-based photojournalist.Copy editing by Sarah Montgomery