For some Spring Festival celebrants in China, wearing traditional attire adds a unique time-traveling element to their festivities.
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Metro passengers in Suzhou, China, this week might feel as though they’ve been transported centuries into the past.
Known for its silk industry and historic gardens, Suzhou – a city of over 10 million, just 1.5 hours from Shanghai – is offering free metro rides during the Lunar New Year to passengers wearing Hanfu, a traditional attire worn by Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty (1644-1912).
This initiative from Suzhou Rail Transit is part of a larger trend in China where dressing in traditional clothes to explore local landmarks has become increasingly popular, especially among the younger generation who share photos of their experiences on social media.
What exactly defines Hanfu? While there are many variations inspired by different Chinese dynasties, the key feature is typically a long, flowing robe with a cross-collar design.
In 2019, Dinogo Style highlighted the resurgence of traditional Chinese fashion, reporting that the Hanfu market was valued at 1.09 billion yuan at the time, according to state media.
While the popularity of Hanfu declined during the pandemic, recent reports indicate a notable resurgence, with searches for modern Hanfu and Song dynasty-style brocade garments on Taobao skyrocketing by 683% and 2,058%, respectively, ahead of the 2024 Spring Festival/Lunar New Year.
Many tourist sites in China now offer Hanfu rentals, complete with makeup and hairstyling services, similar to the practice in Seoul, where visitors can rent traditional South Korean hanbok for their outings.
Tourist sites come to life
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For both local and international visitors, donning traditional attire at historical or themed sites adds an extra layer of enjoyment to the experience.
During China’s busiest travel season, the 15-day Spring Festival/Lunar New Year, many sites feature vibrant lantern displays that make for stunning photo opportunities.
Yu Garden in Shanghai, known for its 40-day Spring Festival lantern exhibition, is a popular destination for Hanfu enthusiasts. Nearby Wujiaochang shopping district even hosted a Lunar New Year Hanfu parade this year to draw in visitors.
In Haikou, the capital of Hainan province, the Qilou Old Street – a blend of Asian and European architectural styles from the 1920s – has also seen a rise in young tourists wearing traditional outfits, according to a local resident.
Cai Pa, a local historian, notes that in recent years, there has been a significant increase in the number of people – from tourists to guides to influencers – wearing Hanfu in Haikou's Qilou district.
The growing popularity of Hanfu is seen as a key symbol of China's cultural revival. Younger generations, who are often more open to new trends, are leading the way in reviving traditional styles.
Cai tells Dinogo Travel that it's becoming increasingly common to see people wearing other ethnic attires as well, especially since Hainan is home to several ethnic minority groups, with the Li community being the largest.
Celebrating tradition
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Song Weixia, a 30-year-old brand designer from Anhui province, who blends Hanfu-inspired fashion elements into her daily wardrobe, believes there's more to this style revival than just seasonal cheer.
“While some people may only embrace the trend during the Lunar New Year, for many, it’s not just about the festival,” she shares with Dinogo Travel.
“It's part of a broader surge in interest among young people to understand and celebrate Chinese culture. In fact, it’s a reflection of a nation that is becoming more confident in its cultural identity.”
Cai, on the other hand, believes that those working in China’s cultural and tourism sectors have a responsibility to preserve authenticity in the process.
“Some people wear it as a trend or fashion statement,” she notes. “But it’s just as crucial to have those who preserve the tradition in its true form so that the essence of the tradition isn't lost.”
The debate over the authenticity of Hanfu has been ongoing for years, with some scholars and enthusiasts pointing out that the Han Chinese people wore different styles across various dynasties, influenced by time periods, regions, and social classes.
Others argue that the term 'Hanfu' is too limited, given the blending of influences from many different ethnic groups across China.
Taking over the Lunar New Year
In the end, Song says she doesn't place much importance on the specific clothes she wears to celebrate but rather on how she spends time with her loved ones, as “that’s the heart of the Lunar New Year tradition.”
“As a child, I always looked forward to the lively atmosphere,” she recalls.
“But as you get older, the connection to family traditions tends to fade. Lunar New Year becomes a powerful emotional anchor, pulling you back to your childhood self. It's a warm, comforting feeling.”
“As I’ve grown, besides looking forward to celebrating with my family, I’ve taken on an active role in organizing the festivities. It’s like rediscovering my family at different stages of life.”
She’s not alone in this sentiment. Xiaohongshu (or Little Red Book), a popular social media platform in China, discovered that 83% of people aged 18-35 surveyed said they were taking charge of this year’s Lunar New Year preparations at home.
The survey also highlighted that young adults place great importance on recreating the familiar tastes of their reunion dinners and indulging in nostalgic items that remind them of their childhood during the Lunar New Year.
In a survey conducted by the state-run China Youth Daily, 76.7% of the 1,333 respondents said they place great importance on the traditions and the yishi gan (sense of ritual) associated with the Lunar New Year.
Over 90% of those surveyed reportedly said they are committed to continuing the traditional customs of the festival, such as cleaning the house before the New Year and decorating the walls with auspicious red banners.
“When I was young, my father would lead my sister and me in putting up red banners around the house,” recalls Song, who is surprised to find herself embracing Lunar New Year and its traditions more this year – a change that hasn’t gone unnoticed.
“Now, the responsibility has shifted to my fiancé and me. My parents aren't overly expressive, but I think they took comfort and joy in seeing my change,” she adds.
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