From Rustic to Elegant: Discovering Bordeaux's Top Neighborhoods

Nicola has just completed the latest edition of Dinogo Planet's Pocket Bordeaux guidebook, set to release in May 2024. Here, she highlights the finest neighborhoods in the city.

A provincial gem in southwestern France, Bordeaux is truly a sight to behold. Grand boulevards adorned with stylish townhouses and upscale boutiques compete with a charming medieval old town, trendy industrial docks, and an endless stretch of picturesque riverside promenades bustling with cyclists, skaters, urbanites, and leisurely wanderers.

As the sixth-largest city in France, Bordeaux is easily navigable on foot and via public transport. No matter where you choose to stay, hopping between neighborhoods is quick and simple. A weekend getaway will cover the main attractions, but to truly appreciate this historic port city, where Romans cultivated vineyards and merchant vessels once sailed with goods like red wine and silks in the 17th and 18th centuries, a longer visit is recommended.

Here are the essential neighborhoods to explore.

St-Pierre & St-Paul

Ideal neighborhood for café culture and first-time exploration

Eager to discover the world’s largest urban UNESCO World Heritage site? Visit this central area – the medieval core of Bordeaux where craftsmen like candlestick makers and goldsmiths worked in the 13th century. Many of the quaint, narrow streets are pedestrian-only: relax with un café and croissant at charming squares adorned with fountains and lined with café terraces. On warm summer nights, enjoy dining at tables set along the lanes off Pl St-Pierre.

Bordeaux’s captivating history comes alive in this bustling area. Absorb the sights from the watchful gargoyles perched atop the Gothic belltower of Cathédrale St-André. Climb the medieval city gate, Porte Caihau, and stroll across the Pont de Pierre (1819–22), the oldest bridge over the Garonne, for a quieter perspective. Mix visits to prominent history and art museums like Musée d'Aquitaine and Musée des Beaux-Arts with some retail therapy on the lively, pedestrian-friendly rue Ste-Catherine. Perfect spots to pause and soak in la vie bordelaise include place de la Bourse, place de la Comédie, and place du Palais.

A wide array of hotels catering to all preferences ensures a comfortable stay in this vibrant, lively drinking and dining hub. Just north, you’ll find the upscale shopping area, Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle), alongside the public-transport center, Esplanades des Quinconces.

Chartrons

The top neighborhood for a charming French village atmosphere

With its wine-trading history, boutique shops, a riverside market, and rich café culture, Chartrons on the left bank exudes the relaxed charm of a French village like no other. This historic commercial district was named after the Carthusian monks who inhabited the area starting in 1383 and was later transformed by affluent wine merchants who stored their products in riverside warehouses and resided in opulent hôtels particuliers (mansions) on cours Xavier Arnozan.

Exploring this compact neighborhood on foot is the most immersive experience: visit the Musée du Vin et du Négoce, housed in an 18th-century Irish merchant's residence, followed by the Musée de l’Histoire Maritime and the Musée d’Art Contemporain located in a spacious 1820s warehouse to uncover its rich history. Wander leisurely down the quaint rue Notre Dame, veering into charming, worn alleys to discover fleeting stencils and murals by French street artists, along with ateliers (artist studios) like Cartopolo and Le 101, and a variety of unique independent shops.

For a true Chartrons experience, spend the night in a welcoming chambre d’hôtes (B&B), browse the Sunday morning market on Quai des Chartrons, and relax with locals over a weekend brunch (recommended spots: Casa Gaia and Au Couvent).

Bassins à Flot & Bacalan

The top neighborhood for a trendy industrial vibe

Continuing along the left bank, the northern edge of downtown Bordeaux invites visitors to immerse themselves in the stunning visual legacy of the city's industrial past. This area was once marshland until the 19th century, when a port, shipyards, and bassins à flot – wet docks isolated from the River Garonne by a lock – were developed. After years of neglect, the neighborhood experienced a revival with the opening of the magnificent wine museum, La Cité du Vin, in 2016.

The innovative Bassins des Lumières transforms a former WWII submarine base into a stunning attraction, while a selection of stylish, budget-friendly hotels and hostels—such as Moxy Bordeaux, Renaissance Bordeaux Hotel, and Whoo Hostel—attract guests with their sleek designs, vibrant dining options, and breathtaking skyline views from chic rooftop bars.

In this authentic neighborhood, it’s all about substance over flash: enjoy the rhythm of a market lunch in a waterfront warehouse, sip on trendy drinks in a functioning garage, or dance the night away at the ferry boat-turned-club and concert venue, IBOAT.

St-Michel & Capucins–Victoire

Top spot for student energy and market shopping

Just a short distance from the main tourist hotspots lies the true essence of Bordeaux, where local residents thrive. Picture budget-savvy students enjoying affordable beers at terrace bars along quai de la Monnaie, while locals frequent the Marché des Capucins to pick up fresh produce and savor oysters paired with white wine.

This vibrant neighborhood is anchored by two lively squares filled with cafes: the bustling place de la Victoire, home to Bordeaux University's historic medicine faculty, and Pl St-Michel, marked by the striking belfry of the ornate Basilique St-Michel and one of the city's finest boulangeries. For a taste of local life, visit the open-air antique and flea markets that pop up around the basilica on weekends.

Accommodation options are sparse, with a few budget one- and two-star hotels located just south of Capucins–Victoire near the train station. Keep an eye out for new developments in the up-and-coming Euratlantique business district to the south.

St-Seurin & Fondaudège

Ideal neighborhood for leisurely, scenic strolls

The elegant and upscale St-Seurin and Fondaudège neighborhoods offer a tranquil slice of Bordeaux, where the focus is on soaking in the local atmosphere rather than rushing from sight to sight. This charming area was once favored by wealthy wine merchants and industrialists, who built their grand mansions here in the 18th and 19th centuries, leaving behind a delightful collection of stunning urban châteaux, hôtels particuliers, and lovely public gardens perfect for relaxed exploration.

History enthusiasts will find plenty to admire, with intriguing remnants of Gallo-Roman culture and early Christian martyrdom found at Palais Gallen and the archaeological site near St-Seurin’s captivating basilica. Those seeking a peaceful retreat will appreciate the stylish midrange hotels sprinkled throughout the area, along with a burgeoning culinary scene along rue Fondaudège—don’t miss a reservation at Mets Mots or Zéphirine nearby.

La Bastide

Top neighborhood for experiencing eco-urban culture

When the usual crowds or conventional scenes become tiresome, cross the muddy Garonne to the largely untamed rive droite (right bank). This captivating neighborhood, once a desolate area, has transformed since 1822 when Napoléon Bonaparte commissioned the construction of a 17-arch stone bridge—reportedly one arch for each letter of his name.

As you cross the Pont de Pierre to La Bastide, the quirky blue lion statue on place de Stalingrad announces 'Surprise!' with its bold presence. The adventure continues with vibrant street art, unique public installations, and the artistic eco-complex Darwin. On weekends, former military barracks come alive with local hipsters, artists, families, and skateboarders enjoying drinks and meals at the green-focused Le Magasin Général, France’s largest organic restaurant.

On warm summer nights, there’s no better spot in Bordeaux than under trees adorned with fairy lights at an open-air bar or guinguette (open-air dance hall) along the riverbanks. Check out Chez Alriq and Les Chantiers de la Garonne for a great experience.