Get Local Insights on Morocco

My journey to Morocco began with a long 10-hour layover at Casablanca airport. I was bumped from my flight from Lisbon to Marrakesh, and that wait turned into a true test of patience—one I didn’t pass gracefully.

However, as soon as I reached the medina and settled into my riad, El Fenn, all my frustrations faded away. A tortoise welcomed me, along with a delightful spread of tea and snacks for a tired traveler.

Moroccan hospitality is unmatched, and staying in a riad is essential in any Moroccan city, according to our local expert, Sally Kirby. I recently chatted with Sally from her home in Tamraght about her experiences in Morocco: traveling as a woman, what to wear, what to eat, and the best places to stay.

Continue reading for an edited version of our conversation.

What led you to Morocco?

I initially came for week-long surf holidays occasionally, but eventually I realized I needed to commit more time to truly improve. You can't expect progress with just one week every couple of years. Morocco is ideal for learning, with many beginner-friendly spots and plenty of surf schools. That's how my journey in Morocco began, and later I trained as a yoga instructor.

Have you explored much of the area?

Absolutely. During the Covid pandemic, the borders were closed, and no one was allowed to enter or leave. It was remarkably quiet without tourism, allowing me to travel easily throughout the country with hardly anyone around.

What inspired you to start writing about your travels?

With Covid changing everything, much of the information became outdated. There was a clear need for someone to produce new content reflecting the changes and developments during the shutdown. A lot of construction took place throughout the country, especially in Tamraght, where I reside. Since existing resources were no longer current, I decided to start a blog. Writing and sharing my travel adventures has always been a passion of mine.

I then applied to write Dinogo Planet's guidebook to Morocco, and I got the opportunity. It felt like I was truly aligned with my purpose. This is what I need to focus on. Yoga was incredible, and surfing was fantastic, but that's my personal practice, not my profession, you know.

What was your experience like writing the book?

I discovered that my passion lies in this: the research, connecting with people, and exploring the diverse aspects of the country. Each outing led me to meet someone new, revealing hidden gems I would have missed otherwise. It was a personal challenge that ultimately allowed me to stay. Now, I have a career that nurtures both my intellect and my love for travel and connection.

What advice do you have for women traveling to Morocco?

To minimize unwanted attention, dress modestly. You can wear whatever you like underneath but just layer with a jacket, cardigan, or scarf. If you do encounter whistling, be assertive in your response. After five years here, I typically ignore it, but if it feels too intrusive, I say “Sir!” in Arabic, which conveys ‘leave me alone,’ while avoiding eye contact. Be firm in your rejection.

How easy is it to get around?

Getting around is quite simple. Buses are comfortable, often resembling luxury coaches with air conditioning, and some even offer Wi-Fi. They connect all major cities and smaller towns.

In the north, trains can take you from Marrakesh to Casablanca, Rabat, and Tangier. The rail system is efficient and, compared to the UK and US, very affordable.

For longer trips, like traveling from Casablanca to the Sahara, flying is a popular choice among locals as it significantly cuts down on travel time.

What’s driving like?

It's quite easy! And the service stations are fantastic! You could easily spend a few hours at a gas station, letting the kids play in the play area, enjoying a delicious tajine, and taking a well-deserved break from a long journey.

Would you suggest hiring a guide?

Absolutely! A guide will provide a deeper connection to the destination. In a vast city like Fez, there's so much to explore. Sit down with a guide, share your interests, and let them plan your itinerary. This can save you both time and money. Plus, the enthusiasm of local guides in Morocco is truly remarkable; they help you understand not just the language, but the culture as well.

Can you give an example?

Certainly! Take bartering, for instance. Having someone to show you the ropes is invaluable. I remember when I first arrived and attempted to barter in the souqs; I quickly realized there are cultural reasons behind their methods. Haggling is like a game, not intended to frustrate. Once I understood this, I began to find it quite enjoyable.

That realization was a significant change for me, as bartering is an everyday part of shopping in the souqs.

Do you have a recommendation for a quieter spot in Morocco?

Rabat, the capital city, offers a relaxed atmosphere with a traditional medina featuring stunning riads like Dar Shaan and peaceful historical sites such as Le Mausolee Mohammed V. It’s also evolving into a modern hub with lively nightlife, shopping, and cultural experiences. Plus, there’s a surf beach right in the city center, making it convenient to walk from your riad. Rabat Surf School provides lessons suitable for all skill levels.

What types of places to stay do you recommend?

In Marrakesh and other cities with a medina, I find riads incredibly enchanting. Staying in a riad makes me feel like royalty; everything sparkles, and the attention to detail is remarkable, even in how they serve tea on a tray. The warmth of hospitality truly shines in a riad.

In the desert, some camps are breathtaking, offering a unique experience of sleeping under canvas. Alternatively, you can find former palaces transformed into hotels. While they can be pricey in Marrakesh, smaller towns offer more affordable options. I enjoyed my stay at Le Palais Oumensour Taroudant, which provided a luxurious experience without the hefty price tag.

Are there any must-try Moroccan dishes?

Always inquire about the local specialties and seek out family-run restaurants for an authentic home-cooked experience, which is usually quite affordable.

Generally, I enjoy breakfast as it's significant here. They have a fondness for pastries and bread, which holds a sacred place in their culture. If you're by the coast, don't miss the seafood—it goes straight from the boat to the grill to your plate.

I adore traditional Moroccan dishes like slow-cooked tajines over coals, especially when the onions caramelize beneath. Another favorite is rfissa, a delightful mix of chicken, lentils, and onions served over shredded msemen (pastry/flatbread). Cafe Berbere on Rue Mehdi Ibn Toumert in Essaouira offers both in a cozy open-kitchen setting.

In Moroccan culture, sharing is key. A tajine sits at the family table, and everyone eats with bread instead of cutlery, creating a very grounding experience.

What would you consider a quintessential Moroccan experience?

I highly recommend the hammam experience, particularly for women travelers. It's a wonderful way to connect with Moroccan women through a cherished cultural tradition. Today, many spas provide luxurious pampering treatments that will leave your skin radiant. There’s a hammam in every neighborhood. Personally, I enjoy visiting Tamraght Spa House in Tamraght, and I also suggest Hammam de la Rose in Marrakesh.