Getting Around Italy: Your Complete Guide to Driving, Biking, and Public Transport

Italy boasts an abundance of must-see attractions that could fill a lifetime. From the remarkably preserved Roman ruins in the capital to the stunning Mediterranean vistas of Sicily and Sardinia, exploring this boot-shaped peninsula is a journey of discovery that continually impresses.

With so much to experience, one might assume that Italy has an efficient public transportation system to facilitate easy travel for the millions of visitors it welcomes each year. However, think again. While major tourist destinations are well-connected, venturing off the beaten path can be challenging without your own vehicle and a bit of preparation.

This article will provide you with everything you need to know to navigate Italy, from winding through the rural backroads to securing the best prices for high-speed train tickets. Whether you’re eager to explore Tuscany, step back in time in Rome, or indulge in the culinary delights of Emilia-Romagna, here’s how to travel Italy on your own terms.

Navigating Italy Without a Car: Understanding the Public Transport System

From snow-capped Alpine summits exceeding 4,000 meters to rugged Mediterranean archipelagos, Italy's varied landscape requires multiple modes of transportation to navigate the country. Trains, buses, ships, and ferries all play a role in helping you reach your destination.

Traveling by train offers breathtaking views of the picturesque Italian countryside

Italy features a comprehensive rail network that spans the entire country, connecting most major cities—including Rome, Florence, Naples, Bologna, and Palermo—with frequent train services. The best part? You can relax and enjoy the stunning scenery along the way.

The majority of trains in Italy are operated by Trenitalia, the national train service, while a select few high-speed routes are managed by the private company Italo. These routes are well integrated into the European Interrail and Eurail rail-pass system. Italian trains can be categorized into three main types:

• Regionale: the slowest and most affordable trains, typically stopping at all or most stations along the way.

• InterCity (IC): faster services linking major cities (their international equivalents are known as EuroCity).

• Alta Velocità (AV): modern, high-speed Frecciarossa, Frecciargento, and Frecciabianca trains (operated by Trenitalia) along with Italo trains, capable of speeds up to 300 km/h, offering excellent connections between major urban centers.

How can you book tickets?

You can purchase tickets on the Trenitalia and Italo websites (now available in both English and Italian), at railway station counters, through self-service ticket machines, or via travel agents.

Keep in mind that if you buy a paper ticket for regional or Intercity trains directly at the station—either from the ticket office or the machines—you must validate it before boarding, as these tickets are not date-specific. When purchasing online, you can simply board without the need for validation.

Is it necessary to book in advance?

You don’t have to book regional trains ahead of time—prices remain constant and seats aren’t assigned. While regional trains to and from major cities can get crowded during rush hours (from 7 AM to 9 AM and 5 PM to 7 PM) due to commuters, outside those times, they usually aren't full, making for spontaneous travels easier.

You can also buy tickets for high-speed trains on the day of travel, but it's advisable to book ahead to take advantage of offers and discounts.

What are the costs?

Ticket prices in Italy are generally comparable to, or even slightly lower than, those in other Western European countries, and they vary based on train type and class. Most trains offer both 1st and 2nd class seating, with 1st-class tickets usually costing 30% to 50% more than 2nd-class.

How can you find discounted fares?

Both Trenitalia and Italo provide attractive discounts for advance bookings. Typically, the earlier you secure your tickets, the more you save—though changes and refunds for these tickets are quite limited. By subscribing to Italo’s newsletter, you can receive discount codes directly in your inbox whenever special deals are available (which is often).

Trenitalia frequently offers discounts on tickets for tourists. For example, if you plan to travel on the weekend, consider the Weekend Return Offer, which gives a 40% discount on Intercity tickets. The Italia in Tour ticket allows unlimited travel on regional trains for three or five consecutive days at a fixed cost of €29 or €49.

Is it permissible to bring bikes on board?

You can take bicycles on many Italian trains for a small extra fee. When booking your ticket online, watch for the bicycle icon to identify trains with dedicated bike carriages.

Which trains provide the most stunning views?

For breathtaking Italian landscapes, plan your journey around some of the country’s breathtaking mountain railways.

The charming red Bernina Express from Tirano to Chur, St. Moritz, or Davos in Switzerland offers one of the finest alpine rail experiences. The “Italian Trans-Siberian” connects Sulmona and Isernia, traversing the picturesque lower Apennines in Abruzzo and Molise. To blend nature with history and literature, consider riding the Treno di Dante between Florence and Ravenna, following in the footsteps of the renowned Tuscan poet.

Buses offer an affordable way to explore Italy

While Italy’s rail network is extensive, many regions remain unreachable by train. Suburban buses fill the gaps between towns that are either too small or too isolated to have their own train stations.

The public bus system is generally operated on a regional basis, so there isn't a single website for ticket purchases. Google Maps is quite reliable for schedules, along with the Moovit app. For intercity travel, tickets can be bought in advance at newsstands and tobacconists.

Long-distance coaches are primarily run by private companies like Flixbus, Itabus, Marinobus, and Marozzi. Though they may be slower than trains, buses provide a more economical option, covering routes that extend to every corner of the country. Tickets can be acquired online through the respective bus company websites.

In larger cities, many intercity bus companies have ticket offices, typically located at or near the main bus station, or offer tickets through travel agencies. In smaller towns and villages, tickets can often be purchased at local bars or directly on the bus. While advance booking isn't usually necessary, it's recommended for overnight or long-distance journeys during peak season.

Boats navigate along the coastline and venture out to the islands

Navi (large ferries) operate routes to Sicily and Sardinia, while traghetti (smaller ferries) and aliscafi (hydrofoils) serve the lesser-known islands. Most ferries accommodate vehicles, although hydrofoils do not. On long-haul ferries, passengers can typically reserve a cabin for two to four people or choose a poltrona, similar to an airline seat. Deck class, allowing for sitting or sleeping in lounge areas or on the deck, is offered only on select ferries.

The main departure points for ferries to Sicily and Sardinia include Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia (close to Rome), and Naples, offering a pleasant overnight journey across the Tyrrhenian Sea. During the low season, passenger tickets are quite affordable— for example, a trip from Livorno to Olbia can be as low as €25— but prices increase during the summer months. Bringing a car on board can become quite expensive during peak holiday periods.

Ferries to Sicily also depart from Villa San Giovanni and Reggio Calabria. Major arrival points in Sardinia include Cagliari, Arbatax, Olbia, and Porto Torres; in Sicily, the main ports are Palermo, Catania, Trapani, and Messina.

Local transportation in urban areas is both cost-effective and efficient.

Most towns and cities offer reliable local bus services, while larger cities like Milan, Rome, and Naples have extensive metro systems. In Venice, water taxis, gondolas, and vaporetti (small passenger ferries) serve similar functions.

You can usually reach nearby villages easily via local bus. Bus tickets are available at newsagents and tobacconists (marked with a T sign) and typically cost under €2. While it's possible to buy tickets directly from the driver, this option usually incurs a small surcharge.

You can find taxis near bus and train stations. If you request a radio taxi by phone, the meter typically begins running when you make the call, not when you’re picked up. In popular tourist areas, taxi drivers may have a poor reputation; it's wise to confirm the fare upfront, check if card payments are accepted, and ensure the meter is activated.

Rideshare options in Italy are quite limited. Currently, services like Uber cannot function legally in Italy as they do in many other European nations. However, Uber Black, which is operated by licensed taxi drivers, is available in major cities.

Traveling by car, motorcycle, or Vespa provides the ultimate freedom to explore.

If you're not planning to visit just art cities, having your own vehicle in Italy allows for flexible travel and access to areas with limited public transport. This is especially useful in the mountains, on islands, and in rural regions, where bus services are sparse.

Driving your own car enables you to stay in remote agriturismi (farmhouses) and take your time enjoying the stunning hilly landscapes of the countryside. Car rental companies are available nationwide, letting you pick up and drop off vehicles in most major cities. Notable operators include Avis, Europcar, Hertz, and Italy by Car. Opt for a compact car to save on fuel and easily navigate narrow streets and tight parking spots.

Do you need to reserve ahead of time?

Recently, regions like Sardinia and Tuscany, which see a surge of summer tourists, have faced rental car shortages. This is largely due to the pandemic, which prompted rental companies to sell off vehicles as travel ground to a halt, leading to an increased reliance on private transport. Consequently, prices can soar during peak season, so it's advisable to book a car in advance if you're traveling in the summer.

Who is eligible to rent a vehicle in Italy?

Typically, renters must be at least 21 years old, possess a credit card, and have a valid driving license from their home country or an International Driving Permit. To operate a vehicle in Italy, you must have insurance for personal and material damage. All car rental companies provide optional (yet recommended) 'kasko' coverage, which is comprehensive insurance covering all types of damage, regardless of who caused it.

What are the costs for renting a scooter?

Across Italy, you can find agencies that rent out motorcycles and scooters, from small Vespas to larger touring bikes. Prices start at approximately €35/150 per day/week for a 50cc scooter and can exceed €80/400 per day/week for a 650cc motorcycle. A valid license is required to ride a scooter – a car license suffices for bikes up to 125cc; for anything larger, you'll need a motorcycle license.

What regulations should you be aware of?

It's mandatory to wear seat belts (both front and back), drive with headlights on outside urban areas, and carry a warning triangle and a fluorescent vest in case of a breakdown. Additionally, wearing a helmet is compulsory for all two-wheeled vehicles.

What are the driving conditions like in Italy?

Overall, road conditions in Italy are generally good, but you may encounter poorly maintained areas with potholes and bumpy surfaces, especially on smaller secondary roads. It can take some time to adapt to local driving conditions, which often feature narrow roads and frequent traffic congestion. In urban areas, finding parking can be quite challenging, contributing to the popularity of scooters. Additionally, local drivers are known for their impatience and frequent horn use.

What should you know about driving on the roads?

Understanding where you can and cannot drive is essential. Italian roads are classified into three main categories: strada normale, which are roads running through city centers with speed limits between 30 and 70 km/h, accessible to all vehicles.

A superstrada is a free, multi-lane state road marked by blue signs, with a speed limit of 90 km/h. Scooters and bicycles are prohibited from entering these roads, and mistakenly doing so can be risky. Similarly, the autostrada, a toll motorway connecting major cities, has a speed limit of up to 130 km/h.

When driving in historic city centers, be mindful of ZTL signs. A zona a traffico limitato indicates an area where non-residents cannot enter with their vehicles. These zones are common and usually in effect during daytime hours. Entering a ZTL results in an automatic fine.

Internal flights are most suitable for longer distances

Given Italy's inexpensive and reliable train and bus networks (which are also more environmentally friendly), flying is often not the most convenient way to travel domestically. However, for those needing to traverse the country quickly, air travel is available, with most major cities having airports.

In 2021, Italy's struggling flag carrier Alitalia was succeeded by a new state-supported airline named ITA Airways, which operates flights to various cities on the Italian mainland as well as to Sardinia and Sicily. Several low-cost airlines, including easyJet and Ryanair, also provide domestic flights. It's more economical to purchase tickets ahead of your travel date.

Cycling offers an excellent way to discover Italy's countryside

Road cycling has been a cherished sport in Italy, and recently, many regions have invested in bike paths and routes to make this sustainable mode of travel more accessible. The rise of electric bikes has also helped people explore on two wheels, making Italy’s hilly terrain manageable with modern technology.

Northern Italy, particularly the Alps and Dolomites, leads the way in the shift towards eco-friendly mobility, featuring countless routes suitable for all fitness levels that can be enjoyed during the summer. However, other regions of the country are quickly catching up.

The coastal region of Liguria boasts flat, enjoyable cycling paths. Abruzzo has recently launched its Via Verde, a 40km greenway that runs alongside its Costa dei Trabocchi, and the 60km trail encircling Umbria’s Lago Trasimeno was completed in 2023. In various areas, disused railway lines have been transformed into mountain-biking paths.

Riverbanks provide ideal conditions for cycling. Rome, infamous for its heavy traffic, features a 32km-long cycling path that runs alongside the Tiber River through the heart of the city. Tuscany is gradually finishing its Ciclovia dell’Arno, which will trace the region’s largest river from East to West over 270km, while the VENTO project aims to connect Venice and Turin with a 705km route along the Po River, a plan that has been in progress for over a decade.

While bikes are not allowed on motorways, they can be taken on certain ferries and regional trains marked with a bicycle logo, where a separate ticket called supplemento bici is required. Bicycle rentals are available in most Italian towns starting at €12 per day, with e-bikes beginning around €35 per day.

Transportation options for accessibility in Italy

Traveling in Italy can pose difficulties for individuals with disabilities. Cobblestone streets and sidewalks often obstructed by parked cars and scooters create hurdles for wheelchair users. Although many buildings are equipped with lifts, these are not always spacious enough for wheelchairs. Additionally, there has been limited progress in accommodating travelers with hearing or vision impairments, though awareness and a culture of inclusion are on the rise.

For train travel, assistance can be arranged via SalaBlu online or by calling 800 90 60 60 (from a landline) or 02 32 32 32 (from any phone). You can also find a comprehensive list of services and details about barrier-free stations on the accessible travel information page of Rete Ferroviaria Italiana.

Many city buses are designed to accommodate wheelchairs, but be sure to verify accessibility at specific stops before boarding. Some taxis are equipped for wheelchair users; simply request a sedia a rotelle (wheelchair) taxi.

Two valuable online resources for travelers with disabilities are Village for All, which conducts on-site evaluations of tourist facilities, particularly accommodations, in Italy and San Marino, and Fondazione Cesare Serono, which offers a list (in Italian) of accessible beaches. For further details, you can download Dinogo Planet's free Accessible Travel guide.