Greece's hidden green gem, a ‘virgin island’ of unparalleled beauty.
Samothrace, a lush island in Greece, is dominated by the rugged slopes of Mount Saos, towering at 5,285 feet (1,611 meters). Below, sprawling groves of twisted plane trees, oak forests, and towering cedars paint the landscape in varying shades of green.
Nurtured by the crystal-clear waters from three rivers, the island boasts an array of rare and endemic plants. Around Kamariotissa, on the island’s western edge, vibrant vegetables grow, while olive trees and solar panels line the terraced southern coast.
Set in the Aegean Sea near the northeastern tip of Greece, Samothrace is just a short ferry ride from Alexandroupoli on the mainland. Famous in ancient times for its sacred sanctuary, the island now draws ecotourists seeking natural wonders and historic charm. Here are some of its must-see spots.
An island for the ‘young at heart,’ Samothrace offers a playground for adventurers and nature lovers alike.
Therma, located on the northern coast, serves as a great starting point for exploring Samothrace. Accommodations here are basic, designed to blend in with the natural surroundings. Who needs luxury when the sound of a creek serenades you outside your window?
For over three decades, Kaliopi Parselias, owner of Parselias Studios, has embraced the island's natural beauty. 'Samothrace is unique,' she explains. 'It offers lush forests, rivers, waterfalls, and people come here to hike the mountain or relax by the sea. It's a true 'virgin island.'
Parselias Studios has welcomed guests from all over Europe for more than 30 years. Initially, their clientele was mainly Greek families with a few Germans. 'Now we see visitors from all corners of Europe,' says Kaliopi, adding with a smile, 'but Samothrace is best suited for young adventurers. The island needs young feet for hiking.'
Many visitors opt for Camping Varades, a seaside campsite named after the 'varades,' natural beehives in hollow trees. Managed by Anastasios Vavouras, the campsite is collectively owned by seven individuals, and their goal is to provide an 'alternative holiday experience,' centered around mountain activities in a peaceful, free-spirited environment.
Most of the campers at Varades are Greeks in their 20s and 30s, like Giannis Tsakiltsidis, a student from the mainland on his first trip to Samothrace. 'Here, you’ll find campers of all ages, drawn to a more authentic and untouched side of Greece,' he says.
Giannis Tsakiltsidis has come to Samothrace to explore its hiking trails. Ancient routes wind through the mountains, offering hikes that range from beginner-friendly paths to more challenging treks for seasoned adventurers.
River treks and natural pools formed by cascading waterfalls.
In northern Samothrace, waterfalls tumble over smooth rocks, forming 'vathres'—natural river pools. The three located along the Tsivdogiannis River, just outside Therma, are the most accessible. The first pool is too deep to touch the bottom, but Gria Vathra, the second, is shallower. Here, free-spirited bathers, often unclothed, glide gracefully past clothed swimmers, carrying their few belongings atop their heads before scaling the rocks to reach the third pool.
Another set of three vathres can be found by following a trail about three and a half miles east of Therma along the coastal road. The river here is the Fonias, which originates from Mount Saos and flows down to the sea. The name 'Fonias,' meaning 'killer' in Greek, aptly reflects the river's ferocious power when the water overflows. However, in dry weather, the trail to the first vathra is an easy walk of under an hour. Families with young children can be seen strolling along the riverbed, passing massive plane trees, golden bracken, and ancient gray stones.
At the first waterfall, also named Fonias, visitors bask in the sun as children splash in the shallow pools, while swimmers brave the powerful cascade of the falls. Halfway up the rock face, a rope tied to a tree invites the daring to swing out, Tarzan-style, before plunging into the icy waters below.
The second vathra, Gerania, which is also fed by a waterfall, requires another 30-minute hike to reach.
The adventurous, often dressed in nothing more than bikinis and sneakers, attempt the challenging ascent, though hiking boots are highly recommended. The first part of the trail involves a steep climb aided by a metal cable, followed by a tough zigzag up a dry streambed. Once reaching a narrow, level path that hugs the mountainside (some sections are fenced), a final descent leads to a stunning emerald-green pool. Dragonflies with black wings and blue bodies, each marked by a single yellow dot, flit across the water as visitors carry on with their rituals in the serene setting.
The trail to Kleidosi, the third waterfall, is often called 'killer' for good reason, and it is not recommended for the faint of heart.
Mountaineering for the experienced.
The trek from Therma to the summit of Fengari (Mount Saos) covers just over 11 miles. According to Vavouras, only the 'bravest souls' attempt the climb to the top. 'It’s a challenging path, but the trails are well-marked, so you’re safe from slipping or falling,' he explains. Like most trails on the island, this one has warning signs along the way. However, remember: if something goes wrong, you’re on your own.
Beaches and boating adventures.
For those looking for a more relaxed experience, Therma offers thermal baths fed by springs that have been in use since Byzantine times, as well as plenty of beaches. Kipos, located on the eastern coast, is famous for its beautiful bluish pebbles, while Pachia Ammos in the south is the island’s only sandy beach. Boat trips from Kamariotissa or Therma stop at Vatos Beach, which is otherwise reachable only by a tough hike. The boats also pass by Kremasto Nero, or 'Hanging Waterfall,' where the water cascades straight into the sea without touching the cliffs, giving it its name.
Along the southern coast, dramatic gray rocks rise sharply from the waves, resembling a massive abstract painting. This is Tis grias ta pania, or 'old lady’s laundry.' According to local legend, a furious wind once blew a woman’s laundry onto the rocks, and in her anger, she cursed the garments, turning them to stone.
Ancient ruins and history.
For history enthusiasts, Samothrace is a treasure trove. The Arsinoëion, or Sanctuary of the Great Gods, was once home to the famous statue of Nike, known as the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace,' which was discovered here. Sculpted in the second century BCE, it is now on display in the Louvre. This ancient temple predates the classical period of Ancient Greece and once served as the religious hub of the North Aegean. Some parts of the temple have been reconstructed, and there is a replica of the Nike statue in the small museum on the island.
Chora, the island's main settlement.
Perched high on Mount Saos, Chora serves as the island's capital. At the 15th-century citadel built by Genoese ruler Palamedes Gateluzzi, it's a great idea to grab a coffee from the nearby cafe and enjoy the sweeping views of the town below. Meandering through the charming streets, you'll find vibrant flowers spilling from window boxes and tree branches arching over restaurants and cafes, creating natural canopies.
The small Folklore Museum of Samothrace is set up like a traditional village home, showcasing religious icons, old photographs, and everyday items. One unique feature is a raki still, resembling a giant turkey baster, with a copper bulb and a long metal spout. In addition to typical souvenirs like magnets and windmills, you can also find shepherds’ crooks for sale.
Goats and fresh produce.
Goats are everywhere on Samothrace. In Chora's aptly named Goat Shop, they appear on T-shirts, bags, and bandanas. Elsewhere, they wander aimlessly along roads, chew on branches, and forage among the walnut trees. 'Our goats are famous across Greece,' says Parselias, 'but not for the reason you'd expect. They graze near the sea, which makes them incredibly tasty.'
The finest goat dishes are found in family-run restaurants nestled inland, either in the shade of lush forests or with breathtaking sunset views. Bare-chested youths share tables with multi-generational families, all digging into goat meat served with glasses of ouzo or Fonias beer, brewed on the island. Locals know over 20 ways to prepare goat, whether it's roasted with plums, marinated in red wine, or served with quince. Almost everything on the menu is grown, raised, or made locally by the families serving you.
It's not all about meat – the island also boasts fresh seafood, as you'd expect from a Greek island. For vegetarians, there’s fasolada tsigirista, a bean stew that’s cooked, then left to sit for a day before being fried. Several restaurants in Therma offer vegan-friendly options, including dairy-free versions of spanakopita, the classic Greek spinach pie.
Some restaurants even sell their homemade goods on-site, offering cheese, honey, and olive oil straight from local farms around the island.
Partying with the hippies.
By night, Therma buzzes with the energy of a street market. Locals sell beautiful handmade jewelry crafted from semi-precious stones, hand-stitched leather bags, and more. Dreadlocked women in crop tops and bearded men in loose shorts drift into town at their own pace. They dine late, animated in conversation, before quieting down to listen to soulful renditions of traditional songs. Soon enough, the whole crowd is singing along. When the full moon rises, it’s time to celebrate – with an eco-conscious spirit, of course.
The tourism workers on Samothrace have all grown up here and deeply appreciate its untamed beauty. They collaborate to protect the island, as Parselias puts it: 'Samothrace has great energy. People say it’s peaceful. When they arrive, they’re tired and burdened with problems. But after a week, they leave feeling like new people.'
Whatever draws you to Samothrace – be it the hiking, the beaches, or the food – she knows you’ll return.
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