Greece, starving for tourism, takes a bold gamble on Covid by reopening its doors to visitors, risking both the future of its tourism industry and its ability to handle the ongoing pandemic.
Teen models Lydia-Angel Beach and Charlotte Claussen lounge under the warm Athenian sun in Monastiraki Square, their hunger satisfied with hearty souvlaki from the famous Thanasis kebab shop after a busy casting session.
Beach, 18, from London and raised in Ibiza, alongside her 19-year-old colleague Claussen from Hamburg, arrived in Athens just days after Greece lifted quarantine restrictions for vaccinated travelers and those with negative Covid tests from key markets.
"It’s work, but we’re also here for a little vacation," says Beach. "The weather is perfect, the people are warm, and the food is incredible. Plus, everyone speaks English, which makes getting around a breeze."
While Athens remains quieter than usual for this time of year, the tourist rush might soon follow as travel restrictions ease.
As of April 19, travelers from the European Union, the US, the UK, Israel, Serbia, and the UAE who are fully vaccinated or provide a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours can enter Greece, though they must follow the country's domestic movement restrictions.
Greece plans to extend the same entry rules to all other countries starting May 15, further easing travel restrictions.
This bold move sets Greece apart from other major European destinations, where new waves of Covid-19 are leading to strict lockdowns. Even for Greece, it represents a daring step, especially since domestic restrictions are still in place.
A small group in Greece, including some opposition leaders, views the reopening as a risky gamble, fearing it may lead to another surge in Covid cases, which hit a record high in early April. This comes as the healthcare system is already under strain.
However, given that tourism contributes 20% of Greece's national income and the lingering effects of a decade-long financial crisis, the majority see this as a crucial move to pull the economy out of a financial hole, believing that vaccines and testing will help manage any resurgence of the virus.
A great destination to visit right now
For the first wave of visitors, Greece’s relaxed entry rules offer a refreshing contrast to the stricter measures in place back home.
"Covid-19 restrictions in Germany are far stricter," says Claussen. "Things are much more laid-back here. It's a perfect time to visit, and Greece really depends on tourists right now," she adds.
Claussen and Beach are excited to hear that after being closed for much of the past year, restaurants and bars, which have only been offering delivery and takeout, will reopen for outdoor dining on May 3.
"It’ll be great to unwind with a cold beer after a 12-hour workday," says Claussen.
The official messaging surrounding Greece’s reopening is mixed for locals. While the government is eager to welcome international tourists with promises of sunny Mediterranean days, citizens are still under restrictions.
Greeks remain in lockdown and must either send an SMS or carry a handwritten note to leave their homes for essential activities such as visiting the doctor, helping someone in need, shopping for groceries, or exercising.
Currently, Greeks can only travel between municipalities within their own prefecture during weekends, and masks are still mandatory both indoors and outdoors.
On Wednesday, Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis introduced new restrictions, including a strict ban on domestic travel during the May 2 Orthodox Easter, the country’s most significant holiday, for the second year in a row to curb the spread of the virus.
There’s some hope on the horizon. Greece’s vaccination campaign is picking up pace, with appointments for people in their 30s opening next week. Transmission, intubation, and death rates seem to be slowly declining, and Greece's Covid toll, with 329,134 cases and 9,864 deaths, remains relatively low.
Earlier this month, store owners exhaled with relief as they were allowed to welcome customers either by appointment or for pre-ordered pickups. Schools are also in the process of reopening, with self-testing kits available for teachers and students.
"Everyone is exhausted,"
Dr. Theoklis Zaoutis, a professor of pediatrics and epidemiology at the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine and member of Greece's Covid-19 advisory committee, tells Dinogo that the country's decision to reopen is crucial for boosting national morale.
He adds that Greek officials are prepared to impose stricter measures if Covid cases begin to spiral out of control.
"We want to offer the Greek people a glimmer of hope, especially since everyone is feeling exhausted," he says. "If the situation improves or worsens, we can adjust our approach accordingly."
"We now have two key tools we didn’t have last year: vaccines and self-testing kits. So far, 25% of the population has received at least one vaccine dose. Our goal is to expand vaccination across all age groups," he adds.
Despite the government’s efforts to revive the tourism sector following a disastrous 2020 – where arrivals in Greece plummeted from a record 31.3 million in 2019 to just 7.4 million last year – it seems that travelers are still cautious about returning, at least for now.
Many of Athens’ smaller hotels remain closed, though several are expected to reopen on or after June 1, aligning with their counterparts on the mainland and the islands.
Boutique hotel 18 Micon Str., located a short walk from Monastiraki Square, cautiously began accepting guests in mid-March. April occupancy is a mere 10%, all of it from Greek visitors, compared to 89% in the same month in 2019, according to Frini Spanaki, the hotel’s director.
She remains cautiously optimistic about the return of tourism.
"We’re seeing bookings mainly from mid-May onward, with most coming from the UK, US, Israel, France, Denmark, and Belgium, and 99% of them are flexible," says Spanaki, who notes that flight schedules have yet to stabilize.
‘A needle in a haystack’
In response, the government has announced that workers in the tourism industry will be prioritized for vaccination in the coming weeks.
"I believe Athens is a safe destination," says Spanaki. "Ensuring the health and safety of visitors has become a core priority for all sectors, so there’s no reason to hesitate when booking a trip to Athens or the islands."
On a recent spring morning, the usually bustling pedestrian streets around the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Acropolis in Athens were eerily quiet, with tourists noticeably absent.
At the Acropolis entrance, three tour guides, their government-issued permits hanging from their necks, were seen lounging on a bench in the shade.
"If you'd like a tour, just let us know," one of the guides calls to a group of young Greeks strolling past the ticket office. No one is in line to buy tickets, a stark contrast to the usual long queues.
When asked if they had seen any tourists, one guide replies: "It’s like searching for a needle in a haystack."
On Parthenonos Street, tucked beneath the Acropolis, upscale design shops and jewelry boutiques, like The Art of Turtle, are replacing the former tourist shops that once sold cheap plaster statues of Greek gods. Katerina Rodopoulou, owner of one such store, isn’t expecting a quick recovery in business.
Rodopoulou, who handcrafts intricate silver earrings and necklaces, has yet to welcome a single international customer since reopening her shop two weeks ago. She believes the country should prioritize revitalizing the broader economy rather than relying solely on the return of tourists.
"It's a rather confusing situation regarding how tourists will be able to visit without quarantine and how vaccination will be handled here. Everything feels very uncertain," Rodopoulou comments.
"I don’t foresee a rush of visitors starting on May 15. People may even be more hesitant to travel this year, as Greece hasn’t shown it’s effectively managing the pandemic," she adds.
Island Getaways
While it’s unclear whether mass-market tourists will approach cautiously, there are signs that luxury travelers are already expressing interest.
Greece is particularly focused on attracting American tourists who were unable to visit last year, especially since this aligns with the Tourism Ministry’s goal of bringing in travelers with higher spending potential.
Mina Agnos, founder and president of the inbound destination management company Travelive, reports that bookings for Greece from her clients – 70% of whom are from North America – are coming in strong.
"We’ve received many early bookings, particularly for August and September. I believe September will be the peak month this year," Agnos says.
"There’s been a noticeable increase in bookings since the announcement of Greece’s reopening. It seems we’ll see a strong flow of American travelers this year, especially since they couldn’t come last year," she adds.
Agnos notes that, so far, demand for vacations on the islands has far outpaced interest in Athens.
"What I’m noticing is a shift towards longer stays on the islands. Many work-from-home travelers are opting for extended visits, sometimes even a full month," she explains.
"Previously, especially with American and Canadian visitors, the trend was to pack as many activities as possible into a short time. Now, however, travelers are taking direct flights from European cities to the islands. They might spend a couple of weeks on Paros and then take day or overnight trips to nearby islands like Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini, and Milos," she adds.
Agnos also notes a significant rise in yacht charters, particularly catamarans and sailboats, calling them "the ultimate social distancing vacation," as well as a surge in multi-generational family bookings.
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