Hail to the Room-Service Club Sandwich

Picture this: After a grueling flight and the haze of jet lag, a weary traveler checks in, enjoys a refreshing shower, slips into a hotel robe, relaxes on the luxuriously crisp sheets of the bed, and picks up the phone to order a club sandwich.

This scenario is so relatable for travelers that the iconic double-decker sandwich represents a notable chunk of room service sales at hotels—up to 25 percent in the case of Dorchester Collection properties. Its charm is timeless, combining three slices of toast, turkey or chicken, mayo, lettuce, tomato, and bacon, all brought to life with a cellophane-wrapped toothpick.

Even before the COVID-19 pandemic made travel more stressful, the upheaval of routine meals due to travel, time zone changes, and dining out makes familiar foods a comforting choice, says Jay Coldren, managing director of Eat+Drink at hospitality consultancy Streetsense. “Thus, the club sandwich becomes a safe option for many travelers.”

Frequent traveler and food enthusiast Evan Saunders echoes this sentiment. “I thrive on immersing myself in new places,” he shares, “but sometimes I crave something that envelops me in comfort. For me, that has always been the club sandwich.” Since founding his blog, Club Sandwich Reviews, in 2010, he has reviewed over 200 club sandwiches across more than 150 cities, from Bogotá to Istanbul. He’s still as passionate about them as ever.

With the hotel industry reeling from the impacts of COVID-19, the comfort and privacy of room service have never seemed more appealing to travelers. The club sandwich stands as a reliable staple in hotels around the world, enduring even in these challenging times. For those unable to travel, this iconic sandwich symbolizes a carefree, pre-pandemic lifestyle. Its unavailability highlights a striking contrast to a past where it was easily accessible. Today, the sight of a hotel guest indulging in a club sandwich evokes not just a cliché but a nostalgic longing for a bygone era.

The club sandwich, a century-old classic, has enjoyed a long history as a beloved snack among travelers. One origin story suggests that its name comes from the double-decker club cars that began operating on U.S. railroads in 1895. The sandwich later gained favor in the high-society clubhouses of early 20th-century America. The Saratoga Clubhouse in Saratoga Springs claims to have invented the sandwich in 1894, though a similar version was served at the Union Club in New York City as early as 1889, featuring toasted Graham bread layered with turkey or chicken and ham. This sandwich's aristocratic roots imbue it with a sense of luxurious nostalgia, aptly described by the French newspaper Le Figaro in 2010 as the Rolls-Royce of sandwiches—though perhaps a Cadillac would have been more fitting, given its American origins.

American travelers helped popularize the club sandwich around the world in the early 1920s, alongside trends like cocktails and jazz. It became a staple in renowned places like Harry’s Bar in Venice, which has been serving its own unique version since 1948. However, it truly found its home in upscale hotels across the United States.

When the Waldorf Astoria in New York opened its lavish Art Deco establishment in 1931, the club sandwich was featured on the menu at Oscar’s restaurant, even served with a knife and fork. “Business travelers have always needed quick and portable lunch options,” notes chef Marc Ehrler, vice president of culinary Americas for Hilton, the Waldorf Astoria’s parent company. The club sandwich was a perfect fit for the Waldorf's innovative room service, a luxury that the hotel is credited with introducing to America. “Dining in your room felt unique and special,” adds Ehrler. As room service became more popular in other hotels, the club sandwich accompanied it, being easy to assemble, fresh, and easily transportable.

Eventually, the club sandwich made its way into more casual dining settings—neighborhood diners and airport Mytouries—broadening its appeal among sandwich enthusiasts. Despite its wider availability, the club still carries an air of indulgence. It’s not something you typically make for yourself, even if the ingredients are readily available. Preparing it yourself lacks the enchantment of having it served by someone else—preferably in a hotel restaurant or, even better, in bed. “It’s a special treat you can give yourself,” says Adam Smith, executive chef at Coworth Park hotel in Ascot, England. “It symbolizes the essence of staying in a hotel.”

What makes this seemingly simple stack of cold cuts so luxurious? Chef Michael Santoro from the renowned Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel believes it’s the addition of the third slice of bread that elevates the club sandwich, giving it the height needed to impress upon arrival. This classic structure also allows chefs the flexibility to innovate, tailoring the sandwich to suit guest tastes, local flavors, and seasonal ingredients. At the Polo Lounge, for instance, Santoro offers four distinct club sandwiches: a classic turkey, salmon with sauce gribiche, lobster with coral mayonnaise in brioche, and a quintessential California version featuring avocado.

Even with chefs trying to enhance it, the sandwich’s traditional recipe remains key to its popularity. Chef Ehrler notes, “We’ve seen culinary tweaks, but the essence of the original sandwich is always preserved, making it instantly recognizable at any hotel.” The club sandwich allows diners to partake in a long-standing culinary tradition—an indulgent yet affordable three-decker treat (with the exception of the extravagant $130 ‘platinum’ club featuring Iberico ham and white truffles once offered at Cliveden House in England).

For over a century, the club sandwich has served as a reliable, protein-rich comfort food. Regardless of the world’s unpredictability, enjoying this sandwich has often felt reassuring. Nowadays, with travel restricted, many of us find ourselves unable to order one from room service. We can only hope that its enduring nature will carry the club sandwich through the COVID-19 pandemic and beyond. When the time comes to check in, slip into a robe, and call for a club sandwich, just remember to ask for that little jar of mayo.

Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer living between Brazil and Portugal.