Hiking in Scotland Where Royals Wander

On a sunny September morning in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, the day is memorable not just for the weather, but also as my guide, Gary Flynn, strides confidently onto the Balmoral estate of the Royal family. I initially felt out of place, but thanks to Scotland’s “right to roam” law, the walking paths that border—and even cross—this expansive 50,000-acre property are open to everyone. There are no towering walls or “keep out” signs, just subtle reminders of the British royals who have played here for centuries. We come across a charming waterfall and a refreshing swimming spot (only my hand dares to dip in) beneath the cast-iron “Bridge to Nowhere,” constructed in 1878 for Queen Victoria to gaze upon Garbh Allt Falls. It’s a royal privilege to be here.

During our six-mile trek—an energizing 14,000 steps across the scenic Highlands—we uncover the beautiful reasons the royal family chose this area to escape city life. Queen Victoria was among the first to appreciate the Deeside region, named for its path along the River Dee from Aberdeen to Ballater, where we currently find ourselves. Captivated by the ancient Caledonian forests, rich elk hunting grounds, and salmon-filled streams within what is now Cairngorms National Park—the largest national park in the U.K.—Prince Albert gifted Queen Victoria the Balmoral estate in 1852, creating one of the modern royal family's beloved retreats.

This is rapidly becoming one of my favorite getaways as well. I could easily lose myself in the ancient Ballochbuie forest, where the pine trees, although not as old as the monarchy, still hold a regal presence. Some are around 400 years old, towering at 75 feet, while one has taken on a remarkable shape, twisted and bent like a dancer in mid-bow. A bed of thistles and heather could cushion its fall if it ever tired of bending down.

As Flynn and I stroll through the gently undulating woods, we exchange life stories while crouching to inspect toadstools—some as bright and red-capped as those in a Smurf cartoon—and we pinch the mossy ground, which serves as nature's sponge. September marks the time for bramble (blackberry) picking, while October ushers in red deer rutting season. However, it seems we are in the transitional shoulder season, not encountering much of either. The heather grows knee-high here, adding splashes of lavender to the autumn hues across the Cairngorm mountain range. Our hike peaks around 1,000 feet near Balmoral, but a two-day trek to the west would lead us to Ben Nevis, the tallest point in the U.K. At 4,413 feet, it stands as the grand finale of the West Highland Way, Scotland's most renowned trail.

After 30 years as a ghillie—a Gaelic term for a guide in hunting, fishing, and hiking—Flynn is preparing to reduce his workload. Approaching 60, he shares that his employer has recently passed away. For the last 15 years, Flynn served as the royal family's personal ghillie, often taking the late Queen Elizabeth II, who adored this region of Scotland, out for walks and hunts. Now, he aims to schedule three hikes per week, rarely repeating a route or trail, compared to the nearly daily pace he used to maintain.

We take a break for lunch at Honka Hut, also known as the Queen’s Picnic Hut, a charming log cabin gifted to Her Royal Majesty and Prince Philip from Finland to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary. It features a sitting room, kitchen, bathroom, and the now-famous porch bench overlooking a serene pond. Inside, a long wooden table accommodates the entire immediate family, alongside a couch for relaxation (complete with a corgi pillow). Flynn is eager to share his stories from such esteemed company, jokingly adding, “You won’t find anything here that a quick Google search wouldn’t tell you.” During summer, the royal family would enjoy fly fishing for salmon or trout in the River Dee or tracking red deer and grouse across the moors and Ballochbuie forest. He fondly remembers the Queen as “just lovely,” and says Harry (“we called him H”) was always a source of laughter, while Princess Anne stood out as Flynn’s favorite due to her down-to-earth nature and hard work.

Today, Flynn works as a freelance ghillie, collaborating with three local hotels—including The Fife Arms, which organized my walk—to guide both visitors and locals into the national park. His expertise is highly sought after (though we encounter only two other people throughout our journey). Scotland is often described as underpopulated and under-resourced. It boasts the second-largest land area in the United Kingdom, yet only 5.5 million residents, with 3 million living in the “Central Belt”: Glasgow, Edinburgh, and the surrounding towns. In contrast, England, which is 1.66 times larger, has a population of 67 million—12 times that of Scotland.

This means much of Scotland feels pristine. Even if not completely untouched—there’s a farmhouse visible on that hill—this region is home to some of the finest stretches of wilderness in the U.K. There’s an ongoing discussion about whether these heather-covered hills, glens, and moorlands should be privately owned (managed as estates) or remain public. National parks are a relatively recent addition to Scotland, established in 1999 by the Scottish Parliament, and currently, there are only two: Loch Lomond (famous for its “bonnie banks” immortalized in song) and the Trossachs National Park, which was created in 2002 north of Glasgow, followed by the establishment of Cairngorms National Park in 2003 in the Highlands.

Scotland’s “right to roam” grants access to most lands throughout the country, except for setting up a tent in someone’s front yard or getting too close to the royal family’s castle windows. Courteous behavior is appreciated—though exploring this vast expanse of stunning landscapes was far more fulfilling with Flynn accompanying me. Without him, I might have overlooked intricate details right before my eyes, such as the osprey nest perched high in the tree or the discreet stone “B” sign denoting the boundary of Balmoral estate. I might even have found myself lost on a Bridge to Nowhere.

Scottish glossary: Loch = lake; glen = valley; ben = mountain.