How Budapest Rose to Prominence as a Fine Dining Hub

Though Budapest is widely recognized for its stunning architecture, thermal springs, and communist-era history, the city’s culinary scene has been rapidly catching the attention of food enthusiasts worldwide in recent years.

New and innovative fine dining restaurants are regularly making their debut in Hungary’s capital, many led by talented chefs eager to bring creativity and sophistication to the Budapest dining scene.

In the past year alone, two Budapest restaurants earned their first Michelin stars, pushing the total number of Michelin-starred venues in the city to six.

Considering Hungary only received its inaugural Michelin star nine years ago, this remarkable progress is a clear indicator of the city’s rising culinary prestige.

There’s no denying that a culinary transformation is taking place in the 'Pearl of the Danube.' But what’s behind this exciting gastronomic revolution?

The influx of tourists and a thriving economy have certainly contributed to the rise of Budapest’s fine dining scene.

Given Hungary’s challenging history, it’s understandable that high-end dining was not a top priority for many locals, long affected by the austerity of the Communist era.

As Hungarian food critic Andras Jokuti explains, 'Hungary was always quite an impoverished country. The main focus of Hungarian cuisine was survival, with a heavy emphasis on proteins and carbs, particularly potatoes and meat.'

Gastronomic Renaissance

Changing this long-held perception has been a gradual journey, one that is still ongoing. However, there’s no doubt that the tide is turning.

Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha Vieira attributes this shift to the increased availability of high-quality ingredients in Hungary over the past decade.

'We used to import butter from abroad because there was no good quality butter locally,' he shares with Dinogo.

'Now, everything has changed completely.'

Vieira is the head chef at Costes, located on Raday Street, and led the restaurant to become the first in Hungary to earn a Michelin star in 2010.

He reimagines traditional Hungarian dishes with a contemporary twist, offering four to seven-course tasting menus paired with a selection of wines.

Jokuti believes Vieira revitalized the Hungarian dining scene by blending Hungarian and Portuguese flavors into his creations from the outset.

'When Miguel first arrived in Budapest, it marked the beginning of Hungary’s fine dining journey,' he recalls.

Vieira admits he had little knowledge of Hungarian cuisine when he first moved to the country and was frequently criticized by food critics.

'My cooking has evolved significantly,' he reflects. 'I can now proudly say that my personal touch is evident in every dish.'

'One of the greatest compliments we can receive here is when someone says, 'This dinner had character.''

While Vieira does make an effort to include Hungarian influences in his creations, this is not his primary focus, and he certainly doesn't cook with Michelin stars in mind.

'I always tell the team, 'We should cook for ourselves. We should do what feels right.' It's not about cooking for accolades,' he explains. 'It's not about chasing stars or recognition.'

'That’s just the icing on the cake. But it's not the reason we put in 14, 15, or 16 hours a day in the kitchen.'

Contemporary reinterpretations

Hungarian chef Tamas Szell gained international recognition for bringing Hungarian cuisine into the spotlight in 2016, when his innovative twists on traditional dishes earned him the gold medal at the prestigious 'Bocuse D'or Europe' competition.

Szell, along with co-chef Szabina Szulló, leads the kitchen at Stand, which earned its first Michelin star in March. Their cooking philosophy mirrors that of Vieira.

'Food is the most powerful way for a chef to connect with guests,' says Szell.

'I hope our dishes evoke the sweet memories of childhood. When I prepare a dish, it should be something both our grandmothers and a Michelin inspector would appreciate. That's the real challenge,' he adds.

Stand opened in Budapest in 2018, following the success of the Stand25 market hall bistro, which Szell and Szulló also ran together.

'My childhood is a big source of inspiration for me,' he reflects. 'My mother always used to say, 'We may not have much, but we live well.''

Szell mentions that his fisherman’s soup, made with carp, paprika, water, and small ravioli-like pasta known as deraya, is Hungary’s second-most popular soup, right after goulash.

'This is how my mother used to make it when I was a child,' he recalls.

Szell’s creations seem to be making a strong impact. Since its opening, Stand, located on Székely Mihály Street, has become incredibly popular.

In fact, Jokuti calls it 'the perfect Hungarian restaurant,' highlighting how Szell’s innovative approach effectively lightens the traditionally rich flavors of Hungarian cuisine.

'I believe this is his greatest accomplishment—taking traditional recipes and transforming them into something contemporary,' says Jokuti.

Szell gets his dairy products from a small farm just outside Budapest, which supplies to a select group of high-end restaurants in the city.

Within just 48 hours of the milk leaving the cow, it’s turned into cottage cheese and served at Stand.

'For me, the quality of the ingredients is everything,' Szell states. 'Great ingredients always find their way to the chef, and the chef is always on the lookout for the best ingredients.'

Located in the heart of Budapest, Babel is one of the latest establishments in the city to receive a Michelin star.

The restaurant is cozy, with around a dozen tables, exposed brick walls, and low lighting, creating a warm and intimate atmosphere.

Chef Istvan Veres draws inspiration from Hungarian heritage and the Transylvanian region of Romania, offering tasting menus of five to ten courses made with simple ingredients like nettles or lichen.

For Veres, cooking is more of an obsession than a passion. He often dreams up a dish and then sets out to create it the very next day.

'In fine dining, you must create something extraordinary, something one-of-a-kind,' he explains. 'You put your heart and soul into every plate.'

'I’m never afraid of trying new things,' he says with confidence.

Jokuti believes it’s Veres’ boldness and fearlessness that truly sets him apart as an innovative chef.

'Istvan’s taste is not easy to replicate,' says Jokuti. 'I enjoy dining at Babel because I’m always left amazed by something new.'

Essential ingredients

Aiming to follow in the footsteps of Stand, Babel, and Costes, the newly opened Salt restaurant, which started in October, is hoping for similar success.

The restaurant is operated by chef Szilard Toth and manager Mate Boldizsar, who often personally serve their guests with the dishes.

Toth frequently forages in the Hungarian countryside, returning with a variety of unique and edible treasures.

'We come across so many simple ingredients that the average chef rarely encounters,' says Toth. 'This gives us the opportunity to create flavor profiles that are truly one-of-a-kind.'

'This allows us to explore a whole new world of flavors – incredible pairings that you simply won’t find anywhere else,' he adds.

The chef’s table is centrally located within the restaurant, allowing guests to approach and inquire about the dishes, or simply observe Toth and his team at work.

The dishes are served with minimal fuss – some even without the need for cutlery – and guests have the option to enjoy a Hungarian wine pairing to enhance their dining experience.

The Salt team takes pride in elevating humble ingredients into fine dining creations, with the restaurant featuring jars filled with fermented and pickled delights sourced from the forest.

'We have a dish called 'greasy bread,'' says Boldizsar. 'In its original form, it’s incredibly simple.'

'It’s just a slice of bread with fat. We top it with bacon, caviar, and lambskin to transform it into something extraordinary.'

Only time will tell if Salt earns a prestigious Michelin star, but it’s clear that the restaurant is already gaining a loyal following in its short time of operation.

'I believe Toth demonstrates that it’s possible to craft a hedonistic yet modern meal using sometimes humble, yet distinctly Hungarian ingredients,' says Jokuti.

A restaurant like Salt would have seemed unimaginable in Budapest just a few years ago.

Its arrival signals a bold shift in the city’s culinary landscape, highlighting the adventurous spirit of its current gastronomic evolution.

'It’s truly captivating to watch Hungarian cuisine evolve during these times,' says Jokuti.

'I travel extensively, visiting some of the world’s finest restaurants. It’s incredible to return home and experience the same level of excellence here,'

'It’s not just about thinking, ‘Well, it’s Hungarian, so it’s okay.’ It’s so much more than that.'

'Dining here can be a true pleasure, even an excitement. We've reached a truly exceptional level of culinary achievement.'