How Global Food Scenes Are Adapting During Coronavirus

As U.S. restaurants face overwhelming challenges due to strict COVID-19 regulations, it's essential to note that America isn't alone in this struggle. Around the globe, cities and their food systems are grappling with the impacts of the coronavirus in diverse ways, implementing significant changes with varying success. Dinogo Travel reached out to correspondents worldwide to gain insight into how their communities are navigating and adjusting to this unusual new world.

[Editor’s Note: The following reflects the situation in these cities as of March 20, 2020.]

PARIS, FRANCE

In Paris, leaving home is restricted to essential food purchases, medical care, caring for children or the sick, essential work that cannot be done remotely, or brief solitary exercise within your neighborhood. A specific form must be completed and carried at all times. Failure to provide this form or violating the rules can result in a fine of 135 euros. Before the total lockdown, schools and daycare facilities were already closed, and people were advised to work from home. Then, with little warning on Saturday night, the decision was made to shut down restaurants, bars, museums, cinemas, and more. Despite this, crowds continued to gather in parks and markets, leading to the announcement of total confinement on Monday night.

While the lockdown is officially set for 15 days, most anticipate an extension. Europe's borders are closed for the next 30 days, and today alone, there were 4,000 reported violations. My parents, despite being in a high-risk age group, continue to play golf and visit the dog groomer, believing they're invincible. If they were to fall ill and with the borders shut, I wouldn't be able to be with them or return to France. That’s my greatest concern. — Catherine Down

The quarantine initially presented significant practical challenges to the routines, joys, and conveniences of daily life in Paris, particularly affecting restaurants, food shopping, and delivery services. Now, as we approach day four, deeper psychological issues are surfacing, such as isolation, fear, and contemplation of past life choices. At first, many enjoyed the necessity of cooking at home, but the monotony is beginning to wear on them, highlighting how much they took the culinary arts and the restaurant industry for granted.

Thousands of restaurants in France face the risk of closure due to this shutdown, as they already operated on razor-thin profit margins with minimal cash reserves. This crisis will also severely impact organic farmers, cheesemakers, winemakers, and others who have long been supported by these establishments. The entire French food system may shift from being artisanal to more corporate, with only large restaurant groups like Alain Ducasse and major food producers surviving. — Alexander Lobrano

BUDAPEST

At present, there are no official stay-at-home orders in Budapest. However, schools have been closed and all public events canceled, leaving the streets empty as people are urged to remain indoors. Restaurants and cafes are allowed to operate only until 3 p.m., after which they must either close or switch to delivery services. The challenge is that many Budapest restaurants rely heavily on tourists, making delivery unfeasible for numerous establishments. With foreign visitors absent and most locals unable to spend over 10 euros on a main dish, it’s clear that we need a return to normalcy and a revival in tourism, which will take considerable time. I fear that by then, many beloved establishments may no longer exist, altering the dining landscape of Budapest significantly.

Just yesterday, the staff at Hilda, a small downtown restaurant in Budapest, had to dispose of 30 liters of kegged beer before closing their doors for what may be a few months. They invited the service team from the neighboring restaurant, which was also shutting down, to share a few rounds, making this bittersweet farewell slightly more tolerable for everyone involved. — Tas Tobias

FLORENCE, ITALY

Tourists play a crucial role in supporting Italy’s slow-food movement and artisanal food products, whether through dining, direct purchases, or small food-tour companies like mine that promote these producers with guided visits and tastings. With visitors now absent, these artisans and their products face the risk of ceasing production, which could lead to the loss of treasured traditions and biodiversity that Italian cuisine is celebrated for. The silver lining is knowing that this is a shared struggle experienced worldwide. — Coral Sisk

TOKYO, JAPAN

Currently, there are no lockdown measures in place in Tokyo. It's strange to see bars and restaurants still operating. People are advised to stagger their commutes, work from home if possible, and practice good hand hygiene. Discussions about stricter measures haven't even begun. However, with international tourism hitting ten-year lows and fewer locals dining out, many restaurants are struggling. Essentially, we’re all bracing for the situation to escalate, just like it has in other regions. — Robbie Swinnerton

HELSINKI, FINLAND

Finland is currently under a national state of emergency. The government has closed all museums and cinemas, significantly impacting the cultural sector, and borders are now restricted to freight and returning Finnish citizens. Although restaurants and cafes can remain open, many have opted to close, including S-Group, which is shutting down its 82 restaurants in Helsinki. Layoffs are widespread, and the threat of bankruptcy hangs heavily in the air.

The atmosphere is one of concern mixed with a hint of optimism. Finns possess a quality known as sisu (grit, determination), which will be crucial during this crisis. Extroverted is not a word typically associated with us Finns. Staying home and minimizing social interactions? Finally, something we excel at! We also have a penchant for dark humor. — Ilkka Sirén

NEW DELHI, INDIA

India has yet to see a significant outbreak of the virus, but testing rates remain the lowest per capita. The Delhi government's directive is to stay at home, but, predictably, there are no state provisions to support those affected. With few able to take unpaid leave, many are forced to choose between risking their health or keeping their jobs. The community-driven nature of Indian society makes this dilemma particularly stark.

A large segment of the middle class lacks cooking skills and relies on home cooks. There has been a rise in delivery services and cloud kitchens (restaurants that operate solely for delivery), but hygiene concerns have surfaced regarding these cloud kitchens. Although the Delhi government has mandated restaurant closures, fewer than 5 percent of the city can afford to dine out. Most urban Indians eat at small informal restaurants or from street vendors, who lack security or insurance, raising concerns about street food safety amid the virus. While supermarkets have not faced shortages, the cycle of fresh, daily food deliveries could be disrupted. — Sharanya Deepak

LISBON, PORTUGAL

With around 30 percent of its population over 60, Portugal understands the need to adhere to government health recommendations. Restaurants were ordered to operate at only one-third capacity, though many opted to close before this mandate. Local Mytouries, including fine dining establishments that previously did not offer delivery, are pivoting to takeout options. A movement called #tomates, advocating for a full closure of restaurants to minimize contagion risk and push for government support for the struggling sector, has gained traction among chefs. The word 'tomates' means both 'tomatoes' and 'balls' in Portuguese, urging officials to act decisively.

The culinary landscape in Portugal has never been more vibrant, with chefs revitalizing local flavors and ingredients. Renowned chefs and winemakers are taking to online platforms, hosting Instagram Live sessions and Facebook interviews to discuss industry developments. However, this crisis could ground Portuguese gastronomy, with recovery likely taking considerable time. — Rafael Tonon

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

Morocco has reported very few COVID-19 cases, yet restrictions have tightened gradually, starting with the cancellation of large events, followed by school and university closures, and the shutdown of hammams and mosques. Restaurants and shops are closed, although some Mytouries are offering takeout. Farmers may struggle with distribution under these heightened restrictions, while small bakeries and food stalls are just managing to survive, albeit with minimal profit. The government has hinted at an aid package for affected individuals and businesses, but many operate within the informal economy and may not be eligible for assistance. — Amanda Ponzio-Mouttaki

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Argentina is likely about two weeks behind Italy and Spain, and one week behind the U.S. regarding COVID-19 cases. As of Friday, the government has implemented a mandatory lockdown, requiring everyone to stay home unless absolutely necessary until March 31. This has all unfolded rapidly. Just last weekend, I faced mockery for not greeting friends with a kiss, and now here we are. The government has acted swiftly, closing schools, nightclubs, and canceling festivals and soccer games — a significant move in a country where fútbol is deeply ingrained in the culture.

Even prior to the pandemic, Argentina's unstable economy and hyperinflation had made it tough for many restaurants to survive. This crisis could prove devastating for the local dining scene. I've spoken with several chefs recently, and many fear this may mark the end for them. However, Argentines have weathered many storms before — from dictatorship to economic turmoil and ongoing political unrest — showcasing their resilience. Life in Argentina can be unpredictable, yet this unpredictability has fostered strength and adaptability among its people. As one restaurant owner told me today, “vamos a seguir adelante.” (We will keep pushing forward.) — Allie Lazar

NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand is experiencing the effects of the virus slightly later than many other nations, but measures have already been taken to lock down the borders and prohibit indoor gatherings of more than 100 people, which includes restaurants and bars. Generally, Mytouries remain open, though diners are practicing social distancing and choosing to eat out less frequently. Some establishments have begun offering delivery and takeout options. Reports of panic-buying in major supermarkets have emerged, and it appears that more people are opting to dine at home.

The primary sector in New Zealand, especially agriculture, is heavily reliant on exports. The disruption of supply lines for transporting food abroad has led to significant revenue losses for farmers, fishermen, and other food producers. Crayfish fishers are a notable example: they had pre-paid for their fishing rights but didn't fish as their main export market, China, had shut down. However, the government has announced a remarkable NZ$12.1 billion ($7.04 billion U.S.) financial aid package for the nation, focusing on businesses through wage subsidies and tax measures, including those in hospitality. — Janice Leung Hayes

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

The Swedish government has implemented regulations that are less stringent compared to other European and Nordic nations, leading to heated discussions on whether this approach reflects weakness or wisdom. As of Friday, there’s no blanket quarantine; however, residents are strongly urged to work from home whenever possible, refrain from international travel, avoid trips within Sweden, and limit visits to Stockholm, where the virus is spreading most quickly.

Most restaurants remain open, but the number of patrons has plummeted, prompting many to pivot to takeaway services. Paul Taylor Lanthandel is delivering via car and bike, Lux Day By Day has launched a drive-thru, Fotografiska is preparing a pop-up bakery, and Restauranglabbet is providing meals for hospital staff. Businesses in need can access loans from the Bank of Sweden totaling 500 billion kronor (approximately 50 billion euros), though it's uncertain how effective this will be. Within the restaurant, hotel, and hospitality sectors, there's a prevailing sense of despair, yet also a remarkable spirit of camaraderie and an influx of innovative ideas to keep operations afloat. — Per Styregård

SÃO PAULO AND RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

Brazil is still in the early stages of the pandemic. While most cities have kept their restaurants open, Rio de Janeiro has mandated a 15-day closure for bars, restaurants, and beaches. Nevertheless, many restaurants are preemptively shutting down and shifting focus to delivery to comply with social distancing. Similar to New York, São Paulo thrives on its dining culture, and the absence of restaurants would strip the city of its vibrancy. The Brazilian Association of Bars and Restaurants (Abrasel) reports a staggering 70 percent drop in restaurant revenues nationwide, and over 3 million workers in the industry could face job losses in the next 40 days. — Rafael Tonon

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

Australia appears to be managing better than many other nations, yet the number of COVID-19 cases continues to rise. Without a formal lockdown, the public is urged to maintain social distance, and on Friday, the prime minister declared a travel ban for all non-Australian citizens. The overall atmosphere feels quite bleak. Many regions are still recovering from recent bushfires, making this situation feel like yet another heavy blow.

Melbourne is celebrated for its vibrant dining and drinking culture, but its future remains uncertain. Many restaurants have swiftly adapted to offer delivery and takeaway options this week. Some provide ready-to-eat meals such as lasagne and cassoulet, while others sell cooking kits featuring ingredients like dry pasta and sauce or uncooked rice with curry. Even high-end venues like Attica have joined in, offering two delivery choices: three classic dishes from the restaurant, including their famed “potato cooked in the earth,” or a family dinner of lasagna and garlic bread. Customers can also add ice cream, wine, spirits, and beer to their orders. The city has rolled out a support package for the Queen Victoria Market, the state’s most popular tourist spot, and petitions are circulating to urge the government to bolster the hospitality sector with additional financial aid. Melburnians cherish their restaurants and will strive to support them in any way possible. — Audrey Bourget

KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA

Kuala Lumpur is under a complete lockdown, restricting all entry and exit from the country. Authorities, including law enforcement and military personnel, are implementing curfews with patrols and roadblocks, allowing people to leave their homes only for essential purchases or to assist the elderly and those in need. The major food delivery services, GrabFood and FoodPanda, continue operations and are encouraging citizens to place orders. However, both companies are known to impose hefty fees on restaurants—Grab charges 20 to 25 percent per order, while FoodPanda takes 30 percent—which adds significant strain on establishments that can only offer pickup or delivery. — Mona Nomura

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO

Aside from some affluent areas like Polanco and the tourist-centric Roma and Condesa, the streets appear largely unchanged, though there are noticeably fewer people. Street vendors are still selling tacos, and most stores remain open as usual. The health ministry has reported no confirmed cases of community transmission of the coronavirus, but experts express concern that the government is acting too slowly. With limited testing available, the Mexican health system is severely under-resourced. While no closures have been mandated yet, many restaurants are shifting to delivery only, and a coalition of restaurateurs has opted to close voluntarily this week.

A significant portion of Mexico already lives in precarious conditions, with 60 percent of the population engaged in informal work and about 40 percent living in poverty. Just a few days without income can leave families struggling to access food and clean water. While higher-end restaurant owners may manage to sustain their families, their staff may not fare as well. Small family-run businesses are at risk of losing everything. Additionally, even those within the formal economy face a lack of worker protections in Mexico, leading to severe repercussions for many workers. — Madeleine Wattenbarger