How Hungary Created the 'Most Expensive Wine in the World'

Hungarian winemakers Royal Tokaji insist that their limited-edition Essencia 2008 decanter is worth every penny.

Only 20 of the exclusive 1.5-liter magnums, crafted by Hungarian artist James Carcass, were produced, with 18 released last year.

Dubbed the 'most expensive wine in the world' at its launch, the Essencia 2008 magnum decanter remains the priciest bottle sold in 2019, though the claim is hard to measure.

Each decanter, presented in a lacquered black box with a light-up switch to illuminate the bottle, is meticulously hand-blown, ensuring no two are exactly the same.

Around 11 bottles have already been sold, making it likely that Royal Tokaji will find buyers for the remaining seven before the wine expires in 2300.

What exactly makes this vintage so precious?

'Nature’s Miracle'

Essencia is crafted in Hungary’s Tokaj wine region, situated northeast of Budapest, a popular day-trip destination for visitors to the capital.

The region’s renowned sweet wines rely on botrytis cinerea mold, also known as ‘noble rot,’ which dehydrates the grapes on the vine, transforming them into shriveled, raisin-like forms.

Essencia is crafted exclusively from the finest aszú grapes, using only the juice of these berries (unlike other local wines, which blend base wine to reduce sweetness).

Visitors have the opportunity to book private tours of the winery, located about two and a half hours from Budapest, to sample this unique wine.

As Orsi Szentkiralyi, a Hungarian wine expert based in London, puts it: 'Essencia is truly a miracle of nature. It's an incredibly labor-intensive process, requiring years of meticulous work in the cellar.'

'It only reaches a few degrees of alcohol but is rich in natural sweetness. It's so decadent that it’s typically served on a spoon rather than in a glass.'

Essencia can only be produced in years when weather conditions are nearly perfect for botrytis. 2008 was a particularly exceptional year for this wine.

To make just a teaspoon of Essencia, about one kilogram of exceptionally ripe aszú grapes is needed, while roughly 20 kilograms of shriveled aszú berries are required to produce a 37.5 centiliter bottle, which typically has an alcohol content of around 3%.

Although harvesting the grapes is labor-intensive, the fermentation process is relatively straightforward—essentially, you bottle the juice and let it sit.

'The decision to bottle an Essencia is always made by the winemaker,' says Zoltan Kovacs, the general manager of the Royal Tokaji Winery, located in the Tokaj district of Mád.

'It could be after three, four, or even ten years. The 2008 Essencia, for example, was bottled after eight years of maturation. It’s a bit different from other Essencias due to its higher alcohol content—around 4%.

A truly valuable vintage.

The flavor is incredibly intense, with notes of honey, apricot, and tea, making it almost unbearably sweet. The liquid is so dense and syrupy that it’s typically served by the spoon. Its richness fills the mouth so completely that even a few sips can leave you feeling slightly light-headed.

While Essencia 2008 has been available for purchase before, the limited availability of this specific set makes the decanters significantly more valuable than a typical bottle.

Royal Tokaji had to secure special government permission to bottle Essencia in 1.5-liter decanters, as current regulations only permit a maximum bottle size of 0.5 liters.

"It's truly unique," says Charlie Mount, managing director of Royal Tokaji. "I’m not sure we’ll ever be able to recreate this again."

The distinctive design of the decanter is said to be inspired by the wine "slowly dripping from the individually harvested aszú berries."

After completion, the decanters were sent to Portugal for scanning and custom cork fittings, before being returned to Royal Tokaji, where they were hand-filled and sealed.

Royal Tokaji, founded by British wine historian Hugh Johnson in 1990, believes one of the project’s greatest achievements is reigniting global interest in Hungarian wine.

"This project represents one of Hungary's greatest exports," says Mount. "Hungarians take immense pride in the diversity of wines the country produces."

"They produce an impressive variety of wines. However, from an outsider's perspective, Tokaji wine carries a certain mystique. It's even referenced in the Hungarian national anthem."

Szentkiralyi echoes this view, emphasizing that Hungary still holds untapped potential in its wine industry.

"With its rich winemaking history, favorable climate, and diverse wine styles, Hungary is a fantastic wine-producing country. Yet, much of its production is still enjoyed domestically," she explains.

Though the collection has undoubtedly brought Tokaji—and Hungarian wine—back into the international limelight, its allure, especially that of Essencia, spans centuries.

A legacy of richness

"As early as the 20th century, Tokaji was considered the most expensive wine in the world," says Mount.

"Doctors once recommended it to their patients. If you could afford it, you’d be prescribed a teaspoon of Essencia in the morning and another at night."

"Pope Pius X kept Essencia in his bedchamber, surviving much longer than expected thanks to his regular consumption of it."

One of the most iconic mentions is in Bram Stoker's "Dracula," where Jonathan Harker is offered a bottle of Tokaji on his first night at Count Dracula's castle.

"For centuries, the renowned sweet wines of Tokaj have been savored by the elite worldwide," says Szentkiralyi.

"Essencia is a rare gem that was once reserved for royalty, but now anyone can experience the excellence of Hungarian wine with a glass of it," she adds.

Recently, upscale London department store Fortnum & Mason acquired one of the decanters, while a collector from Beijing became the first individual to buy one.

While all rare vintages grow more valuable over time, Essencia stands out with its remarkable expiry date of 2300, thanks to its high sugar content and acidity.

This means that the decanters are likely to significantly appreciate in value over the years.

So, once a wine collector acquires one, how likely are they to actually open and drink it?

Mount shares that the first bottle sold was uncorked at a Chinese New Year celebration shortly after the client took possession.

"It really bothers me when a wine just sits on a shelf," he says. "Wine is meant to be enjoyed, but of course, you’d want to save this one for a special moment."

Essencia 2008 can be sampled by the spoon at select restaurants and hotels across the U.S. and Italy.

The Royal Tokaji Wine Company, located at 3909 Mad, Hungary. For inquiries, call (+36) 147 548 500.