How Mahjong is Evolving in Hong Kong

'The setting sun may be beautiful, but the daylight is fading,' reflects Ho Sau Mei, one of the last remaining mahjong tile artisans in Hong Kong.

At 59, Ho uses a well-known Chinese proverb to capture the bittersweet emotions she feels as she witnesses the decline of her craft.

Back in the 1960s, over 20 craftsmen were carving mahjong tiles, and there was even a dedicated association for the trade.

Today, Ho believes she is one of only four or five remaining tile carvers, with many shops closing due to diminishing demand.

In 2014, the Hong Kong government officially recognized the craft as an 'intangible cultural heritage,' alongside traditional practices like umbrella making, folk music, kung fu, and various local street foods.

Though the traditional art of mahjong tile carving may be dwindling, the game itself – a more complex version of gin rummy played with tiles – continues to thrive, with new and modern mahjong lounges popping up across the city. (See below for the game’s basic rules.)

'One positive aspect of mahjong is its rich history,' reflects Ho.

'Mahjong is truly the essence of our culture,' she adds.

A True Labor of Love

Nestled in Hung Hom, just east of Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon Peninsula, Kam Fat Mahjong shop is so small it could fit on a Post-It note.

The walls are lined with newspaper clippings and family photos, a tiny old TV sits in the corner, and a glass display showcases various mahjong sets.

'This shop holds all my childhood memories – I grew up here,' says Ho, who has been carving mahjong tiles by hand since she was 13.

'My parents taught me this craft, so I feel deeply connected to mahjong,' says Ho.

When her father retired, Ho took over the family shop, as none of her three siblings were interested in continuing the craft.

'This industry is fading,' she says. 'Even before mass-produced mahjong sets became widely available, few people were buying handmade tiles because they are built to last.'

When investing in a high-quality mahjong set, she explains, it's common to keep it for at least 20 years – sometimes even 50 years.

'It's impossible to support a family with this job alone,' says Ho. 'I never did this for the money. I can continue because my husband works as well.'

Carved into Legacy

Despite the decline of the industry, Ho remains incredibly busy – the wait for one of her handcrafted sets is at least a month long.

Historically, mahjong tiles were made from wood, ivory, and bamboo, but today they are crafted from durable plastic, which is easier to store and maintain.

A standard Hong Kong mahjong set for four players consists of 144 tiles, including four suits – bamboo, dots, characters, and winds – along with special tiles such as flowers, seasons, and dragons.

'Every step is ingrained in my memory, so it’s not difficult for me,' says Ho. 'But due to back and eye issues, I’ve slowed down a bit.'

Ho spends four to five hours each day bent over her small workspace, where she uses a heat lamp to soften the plastic tiles before carving them.

'I actually retired for a few months last year, but the support of my customers and the public’s interest brought me back,' says Ho.

'Turning down students for interviews feels cruel to me. I want to keep this art alive and share it with others – that’s why I returned,' she explains.

Ho meticulously sharpens and customizes all her tools, from an iron ruler to a makeshift circle cutter, with precision.

Once each design is carved, she carefully paints the grooves with red, green, or blue ink, then wipes away the excess so the pattern remains.

She uses the heat lamp once more to dry the paint, then, with intense focus, repeats the process for each tile, one after another.

A Family Tradition

Believed to have originated in the 1800s, China’s national game, mahjong, has become one of the world’s most popular, with an estimated 350 million players across Asia alone.

As you stroll through the streets of Hong Kong, the sound of mahjong tiles clicking together is omnipresent. Day or night, it echoes from homes and shops alike.

'Every Sunday, I play mahjong with my siblings,' Ho shares. 'It’s a great way to keep in touch. When people lack communication, mahjong can help lift the mood.'

'Some members of the older generation can’t go a week without playing – they’re like mahjong addicts!' she laughs.

She notes that younger people are more likely to play mahjong on their phones or around an electronic mahjong table, rather than with traditional tiles.

'My son, who’s 30, plays on his electronic devices while commuting on the MTR (metro), where you don’t need a partner to play,' she says.

Meanwhile, modern restaurants are offering upscale dim sum and cocktails to give the traditional mahjong experience a more contemporary twist.

MORE: 17 stunning reasons to visit Hong Kong in 2017

Where to Play

The good news is, you don’t have to be a part of a Hong Kong family to join in on the fun.

Dim Sum Library, a new dining spot in the Admiralty District’s Pacific Place Mall near Central, offers a modern setting with cocktails and gourmet dim sum.

At the back of the restaurant, guests step into a contemporary mahjong parlor, decorated with Chinoiserie-inspired touches and, naturally, square tables for groups of four.

'Every Hong Konger grows up with mahjong tiles practically glued to their fingers,' says David Yeo, founder of the Aqua Restaurant Group, which owns Dim Sum Library.

'Mahjong has been a part of Hong Kong for centuries, passed down through generations, bringing people together over tea and snacks,' Yeo explains.

Along with providing all-day access to mahjong tables, Yeo shares that the restaurant will soon offer mahjong classes for locals, English speakers, and young Hongkongers – anyone eager to learn.

'It’s embedded in the DNA of this city – a part of countless family traditions,' says Yeo. 'I really wanted to keep this tradition alive.'

Joy Luck Club 2.0

In certain circles, mahjong isn’t just surviving – it’s flourishing.

'Playing mahjong is actually quite a trendy pastime,' says Roberts, who hosts regular mahjong evenings at Dim Sum Library for her 'Elite Joy Luck Club' – primarily for English-speaking players.

According to Roberts, the game has gained popularity among professionals seeking healthy ways to unwind and stimulate their minds.

Roberts began playing mahjong at around five years old – a beloved family activity during weekends and holidays.

'I want to showcase mahjong as a vital aspect of Chinese culture,' says Roberts.

'While most expats may not have the time to become fluent in Cantonese, they could certainly learn to play mahjong while living in Hong Kong,' she suggests.

Mahjong Fundamentals

A more complex version of gin rummy, mahjong involves four players gathering around a table, often spending hours immersed in the game.

Players draw and discard tiles to form pairs, trios, and sequences of suits in a specific order.

While the rules can differ across Asia, in Hong Kong, each player starts with 13 tiles, aiming to complete a 14-tile hand using combinations of pongs, eyes, and runs.

Specialty tiles, like flowers and dragons, add complexity, but beginners can focus on the basic tiles until they get comfortable with the game.

When a player completes a winning hand, they call out 'mahjong!' – or more casually 'sik woo' (which means 'eat pudding') – to end the round and calculate the points.