How One Restaurant Is Revolutionizing Asheville’s Culinary Landscape

Asheville’s renowned Indian street food eatery Chai Pani challenges numerous conventions. As the recipient of the 2022 James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Restaurant, this laid-back venue distinguishes itself from the competition. Historically, award-winning restaurants often belonged to major urban centers, tending to be more formal and exclusive. Chai Pani breaks this mold. Nestled in a city with nearly 100,000 residents, it’s daring yet unpretentious. Its pricing reflects this ethos: the signature bhel puri costs $9.99, while the sloppy jai is $13.99.

Meherwan Irani, chef and co-owner of Chai Pani with his wife Molly Irani, believes that inclusivity is what sets this restaurant apart. Guests at Chai Pani enjoy a unique dining experience, captivated by the vivid colors and striking graphics of the interior murals and the marigold-adorned windows. Not to mention, the creative and mouthwatering Indian street food served on thalis (metal platters) adds to the charm.

Irani shares that the essence of his restaurant's uniqueness begins well before an order hits the table. “The dish may look and taste delightful, but there’s something deeper. As a team, we strive to uplift one another—naturally, this creates an extraordinary experience,” he explains.

Transforming the Narrative of Indian Cuisine in the South

A strong sense of community, focusing on ‘growing people’ rather than just a business—combined with Molly’s restaurant lineage and Meherwan’s vision to reshape the narrative of Indian cuisine in America—has been fundamental to Chai Pani since its inception in 2009. Its creative and approachable menu, coupled with a vibrant ambiance, quickly garnered national recognition. The Indian street food concept has since expanded into other southern cities, including Botiwalla, their tea and kebab-inspired restaurant that launched in West Asheville last year.

Irani’s specialty spice venture, Spicewalla, emerged organically from the restaurants, making their exceptional small-batch spices accessible to home cooks since 2017. The brand quickly gained significant success and media acclaim for its diverse selection of over 150 proprietary spices, blends, and herbs, which include cumin, turmeric, chai masala, and Tuscan mixes, alongside high-quality salts and peppercorns. Today, it exports spices around the globe. “Spices transport you,” Irani expresses. “They open doors to the world.”

While some may refer to Irani’s culinary ventures as an empire, he doesn’t view it that way. “I’m not motivated by merely opening a successful restaurant for financial gain,” he states. “Every place we establish has a purpose, a narrative to unfold, a contribution to make to that narrative.” Many of his projects focus on adaptive reuse and energizing the community, such as S & W Market. In 2021, Irani revitalized the former art deco cafeteria into a food hall showcasing local food and drinks, featuring The Hop ice cream, Asheville’s original craft brewery Highland Brewing, and the Thai street food-inspired Bun Intended.

The entrepreneur is equally passionate about investing in individuals. Irani emphasizes the importance of creating opportunities within the company to drive its growth. Staff at Chai Pani are encouraged to take on various roles, allowing them to develop alongside the restaurant. One notable success story is Chai Pani alumnus Silver Iocovozzi, whose restaurant, Neng, Jr’s, was recognized as a finalist for the 2023 James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant.

Reimagining exceptional dining experiences through the perspective of Asheville

Chai Pani has not only thrived but has also solidified Asheville’s status as a culinary hotspot. In 2022, the James Beard Foundation honored Asheville restaurants with six nominations for the prestigious James Beard Awards. Alongside Chai Pani’s victory, Cúrate received two nominations, winning the award for Outstanding Hospitality; Cleophus Hethington Jr., the then chef de cuisine at Benne on Eagle, was nominated for Emerging Chef, while Old World Levain (OWL) Bakery was recognized as an Outstanding Baker Semifinalist.

Irani emphasizes that the success of Chai Pani and Asheville’s restaurant landscape are deeply intertwined. “Chai Pani represents a distinctive Asheville experience, offering Indian street food.” He describes Asheville as a VIC (Very Important City) that could serve as a blueprint for other cities aiming to carve out their niche. “Our success stems from our willingness to approach things differently.”

For Irani, it’s about not just transforming the narrative around Indian cuisine in America but also redefining what it means for a restaurant to be exceptional. Each year, Chai Pani sends staff to India to draw inspiration and stay updated on the latest trends in street food. The restaurant also makes annual donations to Dharavi Diary, a nonprofit aimed at aiding children in Mumbai’s largest slum, along with supporting initiatives important to their local team. For Irani, empowering individuals and giving back hold just as much significance as the culinary experience. "I’m committed to ensuring we create an impact that goes beyond what’s served on the plate."