How Shanghai’s White Rabbit candy became a global favorite

When ice cream maker Adrienne Borlongan first tried creating a White Rabbit-flavored ice cream, she thought it had a taste of 'cheap vanilla.'

A few weeks after adding it to her rotating menu at Wanderlust Creamery in Los Angeles, the response from customers was tepid, much like her initial impression.

However, when Borlongan shared a photo of an ice cream cone wrapped in White Rabbit-branded paper, the buzz quickly spread online. The candy, which has been made in Shanghai since the 1940s, is famous for its distinct red, white, and blue packaging, and it has long been adored by children in China. As Chinese communities emigrated around the globe, their love for the creamy candy followed.

Not long after Borlongan posted that photo, people began driving from all over California to try it. That’s when she realized she had tapped into a viral sensation.

Since then, White Rabbit has become a staple on Wanderlust Creamery's ice cream menu and consistently sells out in their online store.

But the success of this best-selling flavor goes beyond just taste—it’s about the Chinese diaspora, the emotional pull of nostalgia, and the irresistible, playful branding.

Produced in China

White Rabbit’s story begins with a now-defunct company called the ABC Company, founded in Shanghai in 1943. It was eventually acquired by the state-run Guan Sheng Yuan Food Group, which still owns the brand today.

Initially, the candy wrappers featured an image of Mickey Mouse, a tactic to appeal to children. However, as national pride in China grew and Western imagery became less popular, the company redesigned the packaging with a cartoon rabbit instead.

Enter da bai tu, which translates to 'big white rabbit' in Mandarin.

The combination of vibrant, eye-catching wrappers and a creamy, sweet flavor made it an instant hit. Children from Beijing to Hong Kong grew up with the treat, and it became a symbol of China. Most notably, it was offered to US President Richard Nixon during his historic visit to China in 1972.

White Rabbit became a symbol of China that transcended politics or controversy—a sweet form of culinary diplomacy.

As for the taste, the smooth, creamy texture comes from real milk, and each candy is wrapped with an edible rice paper to keep it from melting.

Over time, White Rabbit experimented with other flavors like red bean and peanut, but it’s the classic version that evokes the strongest sense of nostalgia.

Dinogo reached out to Guan Sheng Yuan for comment, but the company declined to respond regarding their product.

The candy’s widespread appeal is evident in the overwhelming response to all things White Rabbit in the market.

The White Rabbit brand has gained a loyal following among younger generations, expanding beyond just its classic range of flavored candies.

In 2018, a collaboration with a local beauty brand to launch White Rabbit-inspired lip balms online saw the first 920 units sell out in under 30 seconds. The next day, 10,000 more sets sold out within three hours of launch.

In 2019, a pop-up White Rabbit Milk Tea shop in Shanghai became so popular that people were willing to wait in line for up to four hours for a cup of milk tea.

A new generation

Many of the children who grew up enjoying White Rabbit candies are now artists, chefs, and entrepreneurs, helping to shape the brand's future.

“I grew up with White Rabbit,” says Li Xiang, founder of X+ Living and chief designer of the newly opened White Rabbit Flagship store in Shanghai. “In my childhood, there weren’t many candy options, so White Rabbit was very popular, even a bit of a luxury.”

“It sweetened the childhoods of so many people.”

Growing up in Harbin in northern China, Li associates White Rabbit with celebrations in China—often seen as a special treat for children. What inspires him most, however, is the brand's evolving approach to business.

“As modern business has advanced, so has their philosophy—collaborating with other brands, opening pop-up stores, selling merchandise, and launching their first flagship store,” says Li.

The brand’s contemporary identity is evident in the design of its first permanent flagship store, which also offers White Rabbit-themed products such as hand creams, clothing, and umbrellas.

Located in the newly opened JKS Arts and Cultural Center in Shanghai, the store feels more like a futuristic wonderland than a typical candy shop.

Visitors are welcomed by a white, 3-D printed art installation, inspired by the flow of milk, that winds through the 200-square-meter space, creating a whimsical sensation of 'falling down a rabbit hole.'

“We want customers to be not only captivated by the artistic displays but also to connect with the brand’s essence when they step into the space,” says Li.

Controversy and transformation

However, White Rabbit’s 63-year history has not been without its challenges.

In 2007, White Rabbit candies were recalled in the Philippines and Indonesia after traces of formaldehyde were found in some food products imported from China, including the candy.

While small amounts of formaldehyde are naturally present in certain foods like fruits and milk, excessive consumption can lead to poisoning, with symptoms such as headaches and vomiting.

White Rabbit's manufacturer, Guan Sheng Yuan, argued that the tests may have involved counterfeit candies rather than the genuine product.

The company also hired an independent international testing firm to examine candy samples and confirm that no harmful substances were present before the ban on White Rabbit candies was lifted.

Appealing to global audiences

Through creative collaborations with various brands, White Rabbit has not only regained its popularity but has become even more beloved by global audiences in recent years, with reports indicating that the brand exports its candies to over 40 countries.

At the same time, White Rabbit is frequently cited as a source of inspiration for food products and branded merchandise.

In Hong Kong alone, there are numerous variations of White Rabbit-inspired treats. Baked Indulgence, a bakery run by two sisters, offers a White Rabbit-themed cookie, and an ice cream stand near the busy Central Piers serves a popular White Rabbit-flavored ice cream.

The trendy Chop Suey Club in New York City sells socks featuring the White Rabbit logo, while parents can pass on their love for the brand with Wee Bean’s candy-printed onesies.

Meanwhile, online platforms like Etsy and Society6, where artisans sell directly to consumers, showcase a wide range of White Rabbit-inspired products, including pillowcases, T-shirts, and other handmade crafts.

However, the company doesn't always view these products in a positive light. There is often a gray area where designers or companies create items inspired by the famous brand without its official approval.

There are also ongoing debates about Wanderlust’s White Rabbit ice cream.

While Guan Sheng Yuan clarified that the ice cream shop didn’t have permission to use the White Rabbit branding, local news outlets pointed out that the ice cream shop serves White Rabbit ice cream in a plain cone, unlike the branded photo Borlongan posted online.

As a manager at Bright Dairy & Food Co mentioned in a local interview, “Seeing these iconic Shanghainese brands becoming trending products abroad has motivated us to expand internationally more quickly.”

Borlongan, who grew up in California with Filipino parents, understands the cultural power of food in the Asian diaspora and often experiments with her own childhood favorites, like ube (purple sweet potato).

“I think there's a growing demand for flavors that go beyond just Eurocentric options,” she explains, pointing to tamarind and green tea as examples of flavors that have transitioned from being considered 'ethnic' to mainstream in the U.S. over the past decade.

While White Rabbit’s global popularity has developed naturally, today, the iconic bunny logo seems to attract just as much attention as the candy’s actual flavor.