How to enjoy the perfect weekend in Annecy, France

Annecy is rightfully nicknamed the 'Venice of the Alps.' This enchanting town in the Haute-Savoie region of southeastern France is interlaced with picturesque canals adorned with flower boxes and surrounds a stunning alpine lake, best appreciated from a boat.

With the guidance of French friends who have a family home here, I ventured through every medieval castle, beach, boat rental, restaurant, hotel, café, and quirky shop I could fit into my summer visit. Now, I'm eager to go back.

• Best time to arrive: If you're coming from abroad, booking a Thursday night flight to Geneva Airport (GVA) that lands on Friday morning is ideal. Non-stop flights to GVA are available from Delta, United, and Swiss Airlines.
• Getting to town: The quickest way to reach Annecy is by renting a car and driving for 45 minutes or taking a low-cost shuttle bus. FlixBus provides direct shuttle services from Geneva Airport to Annecy for under $22.
• Transportation within the town: Biking is popular. Fortunately, Lake Annecy is dotted with friendly bike shops offering e-bikes, cargo bikes, and classic road bikes, complete with baskets and bells.
• Accommodation options: Airbnb rentals are a great choice in Annecy, allowing you to enjoy local life with amenities like a fridge and washing machine. For mid-range hotels, the Black Bass boasts a prime lakeside location and a trendy atmosphere. For a luxurious stay, Le Palace de Menthon feels regal, featuring a full-service spa and a glass-enclosed rooftop restaurant.
• Packing essentials: Bring swimwear and beach attire, along with comfortable sneakers, hiking boots, and athleisure to enjoy the alpine trails. Annecy is home to 10 Michelin-starred restaurants, so pack smart-casual evening outfits (think summer dresses, light blazers, and breathable linen).

Friday

Morning: Embrace the morning like a true Annécienne: start with excellent coffee. Venture into the historic old town, Annecy-le-Vieux, and wander along the picturesque, cobblestone Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, where you'll discover Café Bunna Annecy. This charming spot, known as the 'smallest coffee shop in Annecy' (it's literally a hole in the wall), features a barista counter crafting some of the town's finest lattes, alongside warm croissants and baguettes filled with fresh local goat and cow cheese.

Your Day in Lake Annecy: Picture Italy's Lake Como with a sprawling, 42-km (26-mile) cycling path encircling it, where professional cyclists glide past wildflower petals—welcome to Lake Annecy. Cycling is the heartbeat of this region, welcoming riders of all abilities. I suggest renting from Cyclable, which boasts two locations and an impressive selection of bikes. Along the cycling path, enticing signs will beckon you to lakeside lunches. Indulge in them.

In general, the eateries here are laid-back waterfront spots, often featuring their own piers or sandy patches. A top choice for lunch is Le Poisson Rouge, known for its relaxed yet attentive service, local dishes (think filets de perche with crispy pomme frites), and abundant Aperol spritz cocktails. You could easily lose track of time here, but with just 72 hours, it's time to head for the boat, young sailor!

Lac d'Annecy is alive with French teens renting paddle boats to passing tourists for €14 to €24—it's all very carefree and charming. For a more upscale experience, bike over to The Boat (make sure to book in advance) and enjoy an afternoon catamaran sailing with the local Captain Arnaud Depee. Even in summer, the vibrant turquoise waters are refreshed by alpine snowmelt, offering a wonderfully cool swim. Befriend Captain Arnaud, and he'll share the town's hidden gems, including stylish dining spots. For dinner tonight, he recommends Vincent Favre Félix, a cozy restaurant with only nine tables that presents a meticulously crafted prix-fixe culinary journey.

Dinner: The highlight of this dining experience is the personal touch from Chef Félix, who comes to greet you, accompanied by his bilingual waitstaff. One standout dish that lingers in my memory is his interpretation of le petit déjeuner (breakfast), inspired by his childhood memories of his uncle dipping toast into coffee. A delicate bowl of Beaufort cheese mousse holds a gently cooked egg yolk, topped with small cubes of Roquefort and croutons, seasoned with salt and pepper. It’s luxuriously soft and creamy, but a hidden layer of coffee grounds at the bottom adds depth and texture. This dish is simple yet evokes a profound emotional response, which I can only describe as tenderness. Pro tip: Opt for the 8-course 'Essential' (€119) menu instead of the 10-course 'Audace' (€169) menu, as the latter may be too much for most diners.

Saturday

Morning: Prepare to shop, starting with a light and nutritious breakfast at the trendy beach café Pura Vida. After the indulgences of Friday night, I choose a refreshing purple acai smoothie to take with me. Since most retail shops in Annecy are closed on Sundays, an early start on Saturday is the way to go.

Two shops shine for their authentic French craftsmanship. The first is Paul Marius, offering vintage leather creations designed in Normandy, featuring a vibrant assortment of handbags, backpacks, duffle bags, wallets, and sneakers. Next, make your way back to Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau and lose yourself in the enchanting world of Le Tetras, a Savoyarde store brimming with hand-painted pottery crafted by local artisans. The shop is packed from floor to ceiling with delightful items like egg cups, coffee mugs, vases, water pitchers, salad bowls, and cherry-red fondue sets perfect for that picturesque French farmhouse table setting (the shopkeeper will expertly wrap your finds if you have room in your suitcase).

How to spend the day: A trip to Château de Menthon-Saint Bernard is an absolute essential. This breathtaking medieval castle perched on a hill is said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. Opt for a 45-minute guided tour to delve into its rich history, including insights into Count François de Menthon (1900-1984), a French WWII liberation fighter and professor. Despite being injured in the French army and captured by the Vichy regime, he later became France’s attorney general. It’s a captivating true story that deserves some time to absorb.

Just a short walk away is the public Plage de Menthon Saint Bernard. Here, you can find shade under the trees and enjoy a refreshing swim at your leisure. Bring your own picnic or visit the cheerful beach café, which offers affordable ice cream, sandwiches, snacks, and drinks. To be honest, you might want to keep lunch light because tonight’s dinner promises to be another outstanding culinary adventure.

Dinner: If I had to pick just one dining experience in Annecy, it would undoubtedly be at Chef Jean Sulpice's Michelin-starred establishment, Auberge du Père Bise, located in the elegant town of Talloires. Even the locals dream of dining here, thanks to its enchanting atmosphere. From a table on the outdoor terrace, you can soak in the stunning views of Lake Annecy reflecting the mountains, all while enjoying the shade of fragrant mulberry trees.

The service unfolds like a graceful ballet, as each exquisite dish from the six or eight-course menu arrives in a seamless flow. I recommend choosing the lighter menu and savoring the experience. Weeks later, I still find myself craving the 'cueillette d'été,' a beautifully arranged circle of summer vegetables that creates a laurel crown atop a creamy emulsified sauce. It's a true homage to the season in a bowl. And for the grand finale, a generous serving of local Beaufort cheese, sliced paper-thin and accompanied by a sip of rich Roussillon wine, perfectly captures the essence of alpine pastures.

Sunday

Morning: No matter the weather, Sunday mornings are best enjoyed with a cup of coffee and a plate of avocado toast at Dip Honest Food, Annecy's take on Brooklyn's trendy brunch scene. This all-day café is a favorite among locals, who linger over noisettes as if time stands still. But not you, dear traveler. It's time to ASCEND!

How to spend the day: Grab a backpack with a water bottle and a fresh change of clothes, lace up your hiking boots, and set your sights on Roc de Chère, a stunning nature reserve encompassing 168 acres of lush forests, sandstone ridges, and striking limestone cliffs. The trails offer a range from easy to moderate, making it accessible even for novice hikers like me. It might take about 90 minutes to reach the summit, but the views of the lake, Mont Veyrier mountains, and the picturesque village of Talloires below will make it all worthwhile.

On a clear morning, you’ll see paragliders gliding gracefully through the pristine mountain air. Most launch from Col de la Forclaz, which hosts reputable paragliding schools like Les Passagers du Vent and Annecy Aventure. If you’re feeling adventurous, be sure to book ahead (prices range from €85 to €170), park at the public car park, and hike up to the take-off site.

To wrap up your weekend on a soothing note, indulge in a leisurely late lunch at the elegant restaurant inside Le Cottage hotel. Through its panoramic bay window, the lake's surface morphs from turquoise to zephyr green to azure blue, shifting with the sun's rays as they break through the clouds, making it even harder to say goodbye to this view.

Take a moment to soak it all in. Raise a glass of Chablis, relish those final bites of lobster cassoulet, and try not to dwell on what you'll miss, like the apricot gelato with wild thyme. As the saying goes, you can't take it with you.