How to prepare for an unforgettable hike in Armenia along the Transcaucasian Trail

In Dinogo Plan-It, we guide you through our process of crafting some of the most intricate travel experiences. Here, travel writer and nature lover Anna Richards shares her journey hiking the lesser-known Armenian section of the Transcaucasian Trail. 

Before embarking on my hike of the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT), I had minimal knowledge of Armenia. Most of my friends were equally uninformed, only aware of its turbulent history and a vague association with the Kardashians.

What I discovered was astonishing: ancient monasteries, expansive volcanic plateaus, and rust-hued gorges that crumbled like breadcrumbs beneath my feet. 

The complete TCT stretches 932 miles (1500 km) through Georgia and Armenia. An additional section is underway to traverse Azerbaijan, potentially extending the trail to nearly 1900 miles (3000 km). Unfortunately, current border tensions make connecting these sections a distant aspiration. 

Stretching 516 miles (832 km), the Armenian portion of the TCT opened to hikers in 2022. I was among the first to experience it during its beta phase—though after covering 360 miles (580 km) in four weeks, I felt more like a hamster running in circles.

For some perspective: the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in the USA issues 8000 permits each year. About 3000 adventurers take on the Appalachian Trail annually. Yet, fewer than 100 hikers completed a multi-day segment of the TCT in 2024—truly making this trail a hidden gem.

To escape the crowds safely while hiking, you’ll need to plan in advance. Here’s how to organize your trip to hike the Transcaucasian Trail. 

Step 1: Plan, plan, plan

Utilize maps, GPS, and meticulous water planning

This trail demands extensive preparation. It’s best hiked from June to September, as snow makes certain areas impassable outside this window. (Even in August, I encountered lingering snow in the Gegham Mountains.) While summer clears the paths for hiking, it also presents challenges: temperatures in July and August can exceed 32°C (90°F). Since water sources are limited, bring several liters of capacity and a filter-purifier to refill. To hike the entire Armenian section of the TCT, plan for about six weeks at nearly 20 km per day. For a more relaxed pace, allow for two months. Fastpackers and trail runners can complete it in much shorter timeframes.

It's crucial to download route-planning applications. While physical maps for the TCT are unavailable, you can access GPX files through the TCT website (a suggested donation of US$100 grants you access to route guides and a Slack channel managed by trail planners and fellow hikers). I can't stress enough how vital these resources are for navigating the trail. 

Step 2: Pack smartly and arrange for resupply packages 

You'll need a lot of gear—so consider your choices carefully

Although I sometimes wished I were an ultralight packer, I don't regret bringing along 'luxuries' like my Kindle and deodorant. Remember, you must be completely self-sufficient on the TCT. This entails carrying enough food for up to seven days in certain areas, along with the means to prepare it (cooking or cold soaking).

Much of the TCT requires wild camping, so having quality gear is crucial. In areas with guesthouses, cash is necessary; ATMs are available in larger towns, but I recommend starting the trail with a couple of hundred dollars in Armenian drams. A guesthouse that includes breakfast typically costs around 5000-6000 AMD (US$13-16), with additional meals priced between 3000-5000 AMD ($7-13).  Be prepared for all types of weather, as the elevation will fluctuate by nearly 10,000 ft (3000 m). Essential items include a sun hat, a waterproof jacket, and thermal layers. 

Send your resupply packages to the HIKEArmenia office in Yerevan; most towns will have at least a small shop to receive them. For camping gas and other last-minute items, your only choice is Camp.am in Yerevan. (Keep in mind that you can't bring camping gas on a plane, so you'll need to purchase it in Yerevan.)

An Armenian SIM card (I used UCom) provides unlimited data for under $15 a month, which can be recharged at top-up kiosks in larger towns. This is essential for navigating off-road trails. Don’t forget to bring a copy of your ID to scan.

Step 3: Take that first step

Begin your journey from different starting points for northbound and southbound adventures

Every great adventure starts with a single step—though for the TCT, your first steps will be on airport escalators and bumpy buses before hitting the trail. Fly into Yerevan, Armenia's capital, and then take a bus either to Meghri, at the southern end of the trail (a nine-hour ride), or to Gyumri, where you can taxi to Lake Arpi to start your southbound hike. Since buses can fill up quickly, it's wise to call ahead to reserve seats using the contact numbers found on bus companies' Facebook pages (or ask someone to help if you don't speak Armenian). On your travel day, the driver will have a list of passengers who made prior reservations (no tickets are issued). 

Before heading to Armenia, choose your hiking direction. Starting from south to north is quite the initiation, kicking off with three days through Arevik National Park, the most challenging and remote section of the trail. Tackling this first will prepare you for the rest of your hike. During this time, I encountered no one and had to carry enough water for a camel on a trans-Saharan trek, as in the peak summer heat, you might not find a water source for the entire three days. Yet, this section is among the most breathtaking I experienced. Opting for a north-to-south route offers a gentler beginning, allowing nearly six weeks to acclimatize before facing Arevik National Park. However, saving the toughest stretch for last means relying on food supplies from local shops, which can be bulkier than dehydrated meals. Regardless of your chosen direction, the highest part of the trail, the Gegham Mountains, is located in the middle.

Step 4: Welcome Armenian hospitality – but prioritize your safety 

Prepare for boundless generosity in the countryside

I packed more food than necessary, not expecting the incredible generosity of the nomads, villagers, and farmers I encountered. Hungry hikers, like an army, march on their stomachs—so indulge! Armenians place great importance on hospitality, and when you find yourself full and content, your hosts are likely very pleased. Offering payment might be seen as offensive; a smile and engaging conversation are the best forms of thanks.

As a solo female traveler, I was frequently welcomed by families who provided meals, shelter, and even a chance to shower—what a treat! Men might not be invited as often, but everyone can count on being well-fed. Women hiking alone are not a common sight in rural Armenia, so trust your instincts when it comes to accepting hospitality along the way.

Whenever guesthouses are available, always choose to have breakfast and dinner. Not only will you be supporting local businesses, but with the generous portions and high quality of food, you'll never regret your choice.

Step 5: Think about hiking just a small section

A week is plenty to experience a lot

Most of us can't afford to take months off work, and during my four-week journey, I couldn't complete the entire Armenian section of the TCT. If you only have a week, I highly recommend exploring the Gegham Mountains—a stunning landscape of green moonscapes, remote lakes nestled in volcanic craters, nomadic shepherd families living in yurts, and sudden, fierce thunderstorms. This area is the highest part of the Armenian trail, offering breathtaking wide-open spaces that provide a natural sense of elevation.

Traveling from south to north (which is how I hiked, but you can go the opposite direction), the trail features some remarkable sections. It begins with the challenging Arevik National Park, characterized by rugged, intimidating, and dry mountains that provide a tough few days of hiking, although the views of the remote mountains in northern Iran are nothing short of spectacular. About a week into the trek, hikers encounter Vayots Dzor, which ominously translates to the Valley of Woes, where ochre-colored gorges are home to both Syrian brown bears and ancient monasteries. After the Gegham Mountains, the trail briefly hugs the shores of Lake Sevan, a vast freshwater lake nourished by 28 rivers and a popular getaway for Armenians. Around four weeks in, hikers reach Dilijan National Park, one of the trail's greenest sections, primarily winding through wooded areas. This part is well-marked and suitable for less experienced hikers, making it a great place to connect with fellow backpackers, thanks to its numerous hostels.

After Dilijan, Lori Province unfolds as a rural, verdant area interspersed with quaint villages. The Debed Canyon, flanked by farmland, offers one of the most dramatic views along the hike, with cliffs soaring up to 350 meters (1148 feet). Lake Arpi, a high-altitude lake near the Georgian border, is surrounded by gentle hills and bursts with wildflowers in early summer, evoking a profound sense of isolation.

If I had the chance to do it all over again…

I would follow the same approach. Regardless of the hike's length, the trail serves as your learning environment.

Cast aside any preconceived notions about what a thru-hike entails. Have you tackled the GR20? Excellent: given your fitness level, much of the TCT should be manageable for you. However, instead of a well-defined path, prepare for plenty of bushwhacking and no cold beers waiting for you at the end. If you've hiked the PCT, that's great too; you have endurance and know how to be self-sufficient. But expect a dramatic increase in solitude—on the TCT, you might go days without encountering another person, and when you do, communication may be challenging due to language barriers. Hikers on the Armenian TCT rely heavily on GPS, so ensure you bring a reliable power bank. Many sections of the trail lack any markings or signposts, although this is gradually improving. I also suggest having a satellite tracker for emergencies and carrying a compass; if you can get a physical map, that would be beneficial as well.

Above all, savor the experience. Hiking in Armenia offers a deep dive into an ancient and vibrant civilization, in a region that sees relatively few visitors. This journey will transform you into an explorer.