Hunting for Yakitori, the Iconic Snack of Sumo

This article first appeared in the September 30, 2023 edition of Dinogo’s Travel newsletter, where Dinogo’s editors and writers share tips on navigating the world’s tastiest destinations. Subscribe now.

“Ura! It’s Ura!” In the upper reaches of Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s bustling sumo arena, I’m cheering for my favorite wrestler while holding a skewer of grilled chicken. It’s not just hunger driving me. It turns out that Japan’s ancient sport pairs perfectly with yakitori, much like hot dogs with American baseball. Why is that? A wrestler loses if he touches the earthen ring with anything but his feet— and chickens always stand on two feet. So when Ura—a short, spirited underdog whose round figure resembles the Michelin man in a pink silk loincloth—hops into the ring, the crowd waving their half-eaten chicken skewers is sure to bring him luck.

It’s a bucket list experience. After three years of watching every sumo tournament broadcast on NHK World, my dad’s go-to TV channel, my small group of caregivers and I became devoted fans. That’s six 15-day tournaments each year, amounting to 90 days of viewing—roughly a quarter of each year. So when my plans for a spring trip to Tokyo lined up with the May tournament at Kokugikan, I was ready: I had my fingers poised over my keyboard the moment online ticket sales launched. I secured tickets for Day 14, and I already knew what I’d be eating.

However, fulfilling my yakitori craving as a fan was trickier than expected. Despite yakitori being the reigning champion of Kokugikan snacks (grilled in a dedicated kitchen in the basement), locating a vendor proved surprisingly challenging. The wide corridors surrounding the arena on two levels were packed with stalls selling keychains, plastic topknots (the iconic sumo hairstyle), and even life-sized rubber masks of wrestlers. Among the trinkets were kiosks offering draft beer, sake, sushi, bentos, and soft serve ice cream. By the time I finally spotted the yakitori, I’d already picked up Kokugikan mochi crunch and some sumo tea featuring cheerful wrestlers. For a quicker route, stop by one of the information booths and ask for a map.

When I finally located the yakitori stands at Kokugikan, they weren’t quite what I had envisioned. They featured stacks of pre-packaged boxes containing three skewers of grilled thigh meat and two of tsukune, or chicken meatballs—not fresh off the grill, but still tasty. The soy-sugar-sake marinade enhances the chicken's umami flavor. Kokugikan’s yakitori is so well-liked that you can also find it at Tokyo Station, but honestly, unless you’re at the arena for a live match, it’s better to save your yen.

So, does the chicken serve as a good luck charm? Ura lost an incredibly tight match—the referee's initial call in his favor was overturned by a panel of judges. Nevertheless, I haven’t given up on yakitori; next time, I’ll grab two boxes.

Mari Taketa writes about the food scene in Hawaii and serves as the editor of Frolic Hawaii.