I Spent the Night on Italy’s “New” Retro Snow Train to the Dolomites—Here’s My Onboard Experience

“Buona sera, senora,” a friendly white-haired gentleman welcomes me as he takes my luggage and guides me to my sleeper cabin on the Espresso Cadore. Once the train leaves Roma Termini station, I make my way to the bar car to enjoy a glass of prosecco, starting my journey to the Dolomites to ski on Italy's renowned Olympic slopes.

As I stroll through the hallways lined with red plush carpet, I reflect on my earlier travels through Italy, which began 20 years ago while studying in Florence. I notice photographs on the walls featuring passengers dressed in colorful 1980s and ’90s ski outfits, skis in hand, as they step off the train onto freshly fallen snow. Although labeled “new” for 2024, the Espresso Cadore night train was a beloved route to the Dolomites in the ’90s and early 2000s, until its service was discontinued in 2011. These vintage images capture the essence of the train, from the wood-paneled cabins to the retro-red dining car and the large black-and-white travel photos adorning every sleeper cabin.

Reviving the retro “snow train” to the Dolomites

To cater to the growing interest in unique rail journeys and promote sustainable travel across the country, FS Treni Turistici Italiani (Italian Tourist Trains), a new division of the state-run rail network, is launching new routes in 2024 that take travelers beyond typical tourist destinations. Some routes may explore lesser-known regions, while others will revisit familiar places like the Espresso Cadore, always offering a slower, more eco-friendly alternative to flying or driving.

The Espresso Cadore route is the inaugural offering of Italy’s new tourist train initiatives set to debut in 2024, tapping into the revival of night trains in Europe. This sleeper train, restored from cars built in the 1980s and ’90s, will transport travelers from Rome to Cortina D’Ampezzo over weekends, the host of the first Olympics Italy held in 1956 and the upcoming main site for the 2026 Winter Games.

This isn't the Orient Express, but it does offer an elevated rail experience

While it may not rival the luxury of the Orient Express, it provides a refined railway experience complete with white-tablecloth dining and staff in white jackets serving a three-course dinner and breakfast in the dining car. Dinner is included with private sleeper cabin tickets, but you can also order à la carte. I enjoyed linguine alla puttanesca, a sea bream filet, and a dark chocolate panettone tart for my meal. Though it may not be the standout Italian cuisine you’ll discover in the Dolomites (don’t miss casunziei, the region’s signature beetroot ravioli), the service was exceptional and welcoming. There’s a dedicated storage car for all your luggage, skis, bikes, and outdoor equipment. Private cabins feature a sink, a full-length mirror, a small seating area, and a bed (with shared toilets located outside the cabins). Each cabin also comes with its own attendant, who can assist with dining reservations or serve meals in your cabin. The bar car remains open all night for those looking to socialize.

For those seeking a more luxurious experience, the glamorous Orient Express La Dolce Vita is set to make its eagerly awaited return to Italy later this year.

The Espresso Cadore night train takes just over 10 hours to journey from Rome to the Dolomites. While the quickest way to reach the Dolomites is by flying into Venice and then taking a two-hour car transfer, or driving eight hours from Rome through winding mountain passes, this new train route may take longer but offers the allure of a weekend ski trip—or summer hiking adventure—while you sleep.

The quickest route isn't always the most exciting one

And indeed, I slept well! After navigating a few bumpy stretches, I enjoyed a restful night. In the morning, I refreshed myself with the provided toiletries and towel, then savored breakfast in the dining car. Upon reaching the Calalzo-Pieve Cadore-Cortina station (right on schedule, I should add), a 50-minute coach bus took my fellow travelers and me directly to Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy's iconic ski town and Winter Olympics center. Since 1993, it has hosted the annual Women’s Alpine Ski World Cup championships, which were taking place during my visit.

Whether you're an aspiring Olympian or just a casual skier, everyone can enjoy the slopes here. The Dolomiti Superski is the largest ski area in the world, featuring 12 resorts connected by 450 lifts and gondolas.

During my week-long ski adventure in the Dolomites, I never repeated a run. While gliding down Women’s World Cup slopes surrounded by stunning limestone peaks was remarkable, one of my favorite experiences was on the Armentarola piste—a gentle five-mile trail that meanders past enchanting icefalls. At the bottom, a horse-drawn carriage awaited to transport me and about 20 fellow skiers to the next ski area for just three euros. Since there was no room on the rope, I was kindly offered a seat in the horse-drawn carriage instead.

Even in the Dolomites, where the world’s fastest skiers are celebrated, there comes a moment to let someone else take charge, allowing you to relax and absorb the stunning surroundings.

Essential information about Italy’s Espresso Cadore train

Although there’s a Sunday night return to Rome on the Espresso Cadore, I wanted to squeeze in one last day of skiing, so I opted for Italo’s fast train from Venice to Rome. The journey took only four hours, but after a car transfer to Venice from the Dolomites, I was disheartened to find that the only coffee available for purchase (unless you’re in first class) was from a vending machine. Some things should never change.

Timetable
The Espresso Cadore departs Roma Termini Station on Fridays at 9:50 p.m., arriving at Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore-Cortina D’Ampezzo station at 7:57 a.m. on Saturdays. From there, a complimentary coach bus transports passengers directly to the heart of Cortina d’Ampezzo in just 50 minutes. On Sundays, the train returns to Rome, leaving Calalzo at 9 p.m. and reaching Roma Termini at 6:40 a.m. on Mondays.

The Rome–Cortina train route operates seasonally until the end of February and resumes during the summer months, with specific dates yet to be determined.

Pricing
One-way tickets for the Espresso Cadore begin at $183 for a bunk in a six-person cabin, $422 for a single private cabin, and rise to $655 for exclusive use of a four-person cabin. Private cabin tickets (for both single and double options) come with a three-course dinner, and all tickets include breakfast.

Tickets can be purchased at trenitalia.com. For additional information, visit trenituristici.it.

Accommodation options

Cortina d’Ampezzo
Opened in 2022, Hotel de LEN offers a contemporary and eco-friendly tribute to the Dolomites' Ladin culture, featuring energy-efficient wooden architecture certified by Climahotel. Nestled in the heart of Cortina, its rooftop spa was the perfect place for me to unwind and rejuvenate after a day on the slopes. From the open-air hot tub, you can admire the ski slopes illuminated at night, while one of the saunas provides a view of Cortina’s church steeple and the snow-covered rooftops.

Rome
If you’re flying into and out of Rome, the new citizenM hotel boasts an unbeatable location. With just a day to explore the city, I appreciated having a base in the historic Jewish Quarter, right by the Tiber River and a short walk from the Pantheon and the Colosseum. The hotel features a rooftop bar, and the café is open 24/7, offering a full menu of espresso drinks and cocktails.