In Malaysia lies one of the oldest rainforests on Earth.

Bathed in the golden light of morning, Lake Temengor in Malaysia stretches out like a sheet of emerald, its color deepened by the encircling rainforest.

As we glide across the lake in a speedboat, we pass a group of indigenous orang asli boys, playing on a bamboo raft among twisted dead trees that rise eerily from the water’s surface.

It’s a surreal and almost haunting sight, like a scene from a forgotten world, further emphasized by the highway that cuts across the lake.

This vast lake is part of the Belum-Temengor Forest Reserve in Malaysia’s Perak state, covering an area over four times the size of Singapore.

At over 130 million years old, these rainforests predate even the Amazon and Congo, dating back to an era when dinosaurs still roamed the Earth.

Although Lake Temengor is a relatively recent creation, thanks to river damming in the 1970s, it doesn’t diminish its natural beauty. The flooding transformed the hills into miniature islands, including Banding, which serves as an ideal base for exploring the region.

We’re staying at the Belum Rainforest Resort on Banding Island, which includes a guided tour of the region’s most untouched forests. The area was designated the Royal Belum State Park in 2007, and logging has since been strictly prohibited.

Located near the border with Thailand, this park offers a great alternative for those unable to reach Borneo’s jungles or who wish to venture off the beaten path in Malaysia.

Home to around 1,000 indigenous Jahai people, the park is also a sanctuary for critically endangered species like the Malayan tiger, of which only 250 to 340 remain, and which is a key focus of WWF Malaysia’s conservation initiatives.

To visit the park, you’ll need a permit and a licensed guide, and the only route is by navigating the lake’s waterways heading north.

Exploring indigenous Jahai villages

A 30-minute boat ride from the resort’s private jetty takes you to the mouth of Sungai Perak, a winding river that threads through the Royal Belum State Park and branches off into smaller waterways.

Our first destination is Sungai Gadong, where we search for the elusive rafflesia flowers. Known as the world’s largest bloom, they can grow up to a meter wide and release a foul odor similar to decaying flesh.

However, witnessing this rare sight requires a bit of luck.

"It takes nine months for the flower to fully mature, and it only blooms for five to seven days before it dies," explains our guide, Hafizul Haron. We only spot one closed orange bud the size of a volleyball amidst the blackened remains of other rafflesia blooms.

Next, we visit a Jahai village near Sungai Kejar, where eight families reside in traditional thatched huts, and a generator provides power for modern conveniences like televisions.

Hafizul points to a long rod lying in a boat along the riverbank.

"That’s a blowpipe, but unlike the traditional version, this one is encased in steel to protect the bamboo. The Jahai use it to hunt small animals like squirrels and birds," explains our guide.

After receiving permission from Kerji Renjak, the 45-year-old village headman, we sit on the steps of his hut for a chat. The women and children gather nearby, occasionally chiming in, while a playful monkey swings from a tree.

He shares some of the pleasures of village life – like the soothing sounds of deer calls – along with some of the difficulties they face.

"The fish population in the lake has dropped due to recreational fishing, and when we plant crops, the elephants sometimes destroy them," he explains.

Kerji is warm and talkative, but visitors should be aware that the Jahai people have voiced concerns about the negative impacts of wildlife conservation and tourism on their way of life.

The orang asli receive gifts and monetary donations from tourists, as recommended by guides, and some are employed by tour operators and resorts. However, many feel they have not been fully integrated into the emerging ecotourism industry here.

Hidden dangers, endangered species

The Jahai live amidst Royal Belum’s diverse wildlife, including 10 species of hornbills and endangered mammals like the Sumatran rhino, Asian elephant, Malayan gaur, Malayan tapir, and the Malayan tiger.

While the larger creatures may be elusive, you’re more likely to spot smaller wildlife at the Sungai Papan salt lick – a mineral-rich area where wild boars, sambar deer, pangolins, and butterflies gather to nourish themselves.

Later, Hafizul takes us on a brief hike through the forest, where towering trunks, massive fronds, and twisting vines surround us. He points out the remarkable plants that have a variety of uses.

At our final stop, we glide into a peaceful cove where the towering trees arch above us, creating a natural green cathedral. We then head to the Sungai Ruok waterfall for a refreshing break from the heat.

The Belum Rainforest Resort also offers shorter adventures, such as a 40-minute night hike around its grounds on Banding Island.

As the chorus of cicadas and crickets fades, the night settles into a profound silence. Hafizul’s sharp eyes guide us through the dark.

We encounter wild boars foraging for food, as well as small yet venomous creatures like scorpions, spiders, and centipedes. Giant ants, the size of our thumbs, are also spotted, along with the occasional leech.

Even the plants can be dangerous in the darkness.

"Don’t touch the bamboo; it’ll make you itch like crazy," warns Hafizul. "And be careful of the rattan vines – they’re spiked and can scratch you."

Along the way, we pass a historic lookout tower from the 1950s, once used by the Malaysian military during their battle against the communists who controlled the area at the time. (The Belum-Temengor forest was flooded by hydropower dams, depriving the communists of their cover.)

At the end of our hike, we emerge from the sloping shores of Lake Temengor and cross beneath the East-West Highway, which divides Belum-Temengor into its northern and southern regions.

A receptionist at the resort mentions that if you walk along this highway at night, you might be lucky enough to see elephants crossing the road.

Planning your visit

Banding Island is located 400 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital, and can only be reached directly by car. To break up the drive, you can stop in Ipoh, a city that offers culinary and cultural experiences.

Compared to other Malaysian destinations, Belum-Temengor tends to be on the pricier side. Most visitors opt for accommodation packages that typically include meals and guided tours for convenience.

Belum Rainforest Resort offers both luxury rooms and villas with stunning views of Lake Temengor, as well as more affordable rooms in its older blocks. While there are no televisions, the resort provides all the usual amenities, including WiFi.

For a more rustic experience, Belum Eco Resort – located on an island south of Banding – features wooden chalets and dormitories with no air-conditioning, and electricity is only available from 6:30 p.m. to 8 a.m. However, if you're staying alone, you’ll face a hefty surcharge.

For group travelers, both resorts offer houseboats for an alternative stay.

Most Royal Belum tours follow a standard itinerary, but there are also a number of other attractions to explore, including additional rafflesia viewpoints, orang asli villages, salt licks, and waterfalls.

These tours only explore the outskirts of the park, so if you're seeking a more adventurous and immersive experience, consider Belum Adventure Camp.

Other available options include fishing and bird-watching tours, as well as excursions in the Temengor Forest Reserve, just outside Royal Belum, which does not require a permit.

Belum.com.my is a great all-in-one resource to book car transfers, houseboat stays, and tours. Alternatively, you can contact Asian Trails (reach out to Abu Fadzil at +60 19 393 0592 or [email protected]).

You can also explore the offers from local touts at Banding Island’s public jetty.

If you prefer to arrange everything yourself, check the Perak State Park Corporation’s website for a list of registered boat operators and tour guides.