In Turkey, a bustling city lies next to a legendary ancient site
An imposing wooden horse stands proudly at the marina in Çanakkale, a quaint port city located southwest of Istanbul.
This massive horse is a replica of the famed Trojan Horse from ancient myth. Some may recognize it from its appearance in the 2004 film 'Troy.'
Gifted to the city by the filmmakers, its placement is no coincidence. Çanakkale (pronounced cha-na-call-ay) is situated near the archaeological site of the ancient city of Troy, the backdrop of Homer’s epic ‘Iliad’ and the legendary Trojan War.
‘I’ve spent 25 years excavating here, and every year my appreciation for it grows,’ says C. Brian Rose, a professor of archaeology at the University of Pennsylvania and author of 'The Archaeology of Greek and Roman Troy.' 'There’s something unique about this site compared to others,' he tells Dinogo.
The close ties between Çanakkale and Troy—known as 'Truva' in Turkish or sometimes 'Troya'—are unmistakable. Statues, benches, signs, and other city features all carry Trojan-themed designs. These elements are interspersed with reminders of another significant chapter in the region’s history: the devastating World War I battle of Gallipoli, which took place just across the Dardanelles Strait from Çanakkale on Turkey’s Gallipoli Peninsula.
Çanakkale itself is a vibrant, inviting city. Ferries shuttle back and forth, while visitors wander through the cobbled streets of the historic district, where they’ll find shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, and kebab stands filled with students from the local university. On warm summer evenings, vendors set up along the marina boardwalk, all under the watchful eye of the mighty wooden horse.
There’s no shortage of reasons to visit Çanakkale, but its main draw is the ancient city of Troy, located just 20 minutes south of town, near the village of Hisarlik.
An iconic city
As legend has it, the Trojan War was a ten-year struggle between the people of Troy and the Mycenaean Greeks, taking place around 3,000 years ago. Heroes like Priam, Hector, and Paris fought for Troy, while Menelaus, Agamemnon, Achilles, and Odysseus led the Greeks. The war ended when the Greeks, following Odysseus' cunning plan, built a massive wooden horse, hid soldiers inside, and presented it as a gift. When the Trojans brought it into the city as a trophy, the Greeks emerged from the horse and overwhelmed Troy.
Today, when you visit Truva—accessible by car or a short bus ride from Çanakkale—you’ll be greeted by a replica of the Trojan Horse at the entrance. From there, a path leads you through the well-preserved ruins of Troy, including its ancient stone walls and streets, offering sweeping views of the surrounding fields and the Aegean Sea. According to the myth, it was in this very stretch between the city and the sea where the legendary siege of Troy unfolded.
But how much of the myth is grounded in reality?
‘We know that multiple wars were fought at Troy,’ says Rose. ‘This site has long been a focal point for conflict, due to its strategic location—everyone wanted to control it.’
A coveted prize for conquerors
Troy occupied a strategically vital location, controlling the entrance to the Dardanelles Strait, which connects the Aegean Sea to the Marmara and Black Seas. It also lay on one of the primary land routes between Europe and Asia. This prime position made Troy a coveted site, leading to continuous conflicts spanning 2,000 years—from the late Bronze Age and the Trojan Wars, through the Persian Wars, and into the Crusades.
Far from being a remote outpost, Troy was a key crossroads in the ancient world, attracting notable figures like Xerxes, Alexander the Great, and the Roman emperor Augustus. According to the historian Plutarch, Alexander even made a pilgrimage to the temple of Athena Ilias, where he offered sacrifices at the supposed tombs of the legendary heroes Achilles and Patroclus.
According to Rose, by the time the Iliad was written down in the 8th century BCE, what had actually been a 200-year-long conflict involving various parties during the late Bronze Age was condensed into a 10-year war between two main enemies. So, is there a historical basis for the Trojan War? He answers with a simple nod: ‘Sure.’
There is even evidence that many of the figures in the story were real people.
The only surviving written record from Bronze Age Troy, says Rose, comes from clay tablets found at Hattusa, the capital of the ancient Hittites. These tablets mention ‘Wilusa,’ the Hittite term for ‘Illios,’ which the Greeks later called ‘Troy.’ They also detail diplomatic and military exchanges with the Mycenaean Greeks, and reference figures like Atreus (Agamemnon’s father), Paris, and other characters from the Iliad.
Rose describes the tablets as ‘a history book for what transpired between the Greeks and Hittites in western Asia Minor.’
At Truva, Rose and his team used MRI scanning to uncover key features of the ancient city, including two defensive structures that some believe may be the very ones described by Homer. However, proving this connection remains a challenge.
As Rose explains, what we now call Troy is actually a multi-layered archaeological site, with 10 distinct levels of occupation stacked on top of each other, covering a span of about 4,500 years. Over time, it has been home to various cultures and carried many different names.
Following in the footsteps of Achilles
Despite the blurry timelines and questionable details in some parts of the story, a visit to Truva is an unforgettable journey for fans of the Homeric epics. From its ancient walls, you can gaze out over the very land where, according to legend, Achilles fought Hector and Odysseus masterminded the Trojan Horse. You’ll walk on stones that may have once been trod by legendary figures like Agamemnon, Priam, Helen, Cassandra, Paris, and Nestor. It’s here that the roots of much of Western literature were planted.
You don’t need to be a scholar of ancient texts to appreciate the wonders of Troy. The ruins are striking, the site is well-maintained, and history seems to linger in the air.
What’s more, unlike many major historical sites, Troy remains free of the typical crowds. Here, you can immerse yourself in one of history's defining moments in complete tranquility.
Framed by history
Çanakkale, just a short distance from Troy, is a fantastic spot to spend a couple of days. Its compact downtown is perfect for exploring on foot, offering great food, cozy cafes, vibrant bars, pastry shops (don't miss the baklava), and plenty of souvenir shopping, all while echoing the city's rich historical past.
A local favorite is Sardalye, known for its specialty of fresh fish and chips. Along the waterfront, you'll find many cafes, bars, and restaurants – Ziveriye Ocakbaşı is a great place to enjoy traditional Turkish dishes, paired with a terrace view of the iconic Trojan Horse.
Beyond its dining scene, Çanakkale is a delightful place to simply stroll and soak in the atmosphere.
‘It’s a wonderful town,’ says Rose. ‘I love it here. It’s not overrun with tourists, so it retains its authentic charm. It’s the perfect base for exploring both the ancient and modern conflicts that have shaped this area.’
‘On the Asian side of Çanakkale, you’ll see the giant wooden horse, a symbol of the first great East-West conflict in this region. On the opposite European side, the Gallipoli war memorial stands to honor the last major conflict in this area. When I think of Çanakkale, I think of these two monumental bookends,’ says Rose.
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5/5