Is the Black Swan pub in Britain really the world’s top restaurant?

British pubs are famous for their classic charm, cozy vibe, inviting fires, and occasionally, impressive menus.

But calling one the best restaurant in the world? That must be the beer talking, right?

However, the Black Swan, a charming countryside inn in Oldstead, England, which has been a staple of the village since the 1500s, has earned that title from TripAdvisor.

After compiling numerous glowing reviews, the site ranked the pub above Michelin-starred restaurants in cities like New York and Paris in its annual Travelers' Choice awards.

This is a claim worth exploring—not just for the food, but as an excuse to experience the breathtaking beauty of North Yorkshire, with its winding country lanes, ancient woodlands, and rolling hills, all of which have managed to keep the Black Swan’s secret safe.

So, what makes it stand out?

First of all, this isn’t some forgotten pub hidden away in the countryside. Tommy Banks, a gifted young chef from the area, is already a familiar face on UK television and became the youngest-ever recipient of a Michelin star at just 24 years old in 2013.

Culinary wizardry

Secondly, the Black Swan has outgrown its pub roots. Like many rural UK pubs, it was in decline for years until 2006, when the Banks family took the reins. After struggling to maintain it as a traditional pub, they reinvented it as a dining destination.

And they’ve never looked back.

Today, it operates as both a restaurant and a luxury lodging, offering food-and-stay packages that attract guests to its secluded spot. It's often fully booked well ahead of time.

That said, the Black Swan still retains its pub-like charm. Step inside, and you'll be welcomed by a wood-burning fire, a cozy bar, tables, shelves filled with old books, and, more often than not, a friendly dog roaming about.

According to Banks' older brother, James, who manages the front-of-house, at least one local still treats it like a pub, stopping by daily for a drink at the bar. However, his options are a cocktail, wine, or bottled beer, not the traditional hand-pulled ale.

Upstairs is where the culinary magic takes place. After a welcome drink, such as a tangerine marigold martini, guests are escorted to their tables to dive into Banks' 11-course tasting menu.

The dining area is unpretentious yet inviting. Two rooms with tables sit beneath low-beamed ceilings. Wooden floors are softened by oriental rugs, and at one end, a chest-high partition separates the dining area from an open stainless steel kitchen prep space.

Dinner and a show.

Before we get to the food, it’s worth noting where most of the ingredients come from. Oldstead, located about 20 miles north of the historic city of York, is nestled where a flat valley meets the rolling slopes of the North York Moors, covered in heather.

It’s a peaceful, picturesque location, far from the rugged, windswept hills that characterize much of the surrounding Yorkshire countryside.

Old tracks and winding lanes

A mile or so in one direction lies the 12th-century ruins of Byland Abbey. In the opposite direction, carved into the hillside of Sutton Bank, you’ll find the White Horse of Kilburn, a Victorian-era landscape folly visible for miles.

This is a stunning landscape of ancient tracks and winding lanes, perfect for losing yourself whether you’re on foot, by bike, or behind the wheel. It’s also a rich source of beets, damsons, beef, lamb, and other fresh ingredients that often appear on the Black Swan’s ever-changing seasonal menu.

One of the standout dishes is Banks' signature Crapaudine Beetroot – a slice of beetroot grown in the Black Swan’s gardens, slow-cooked for hours in beef fat, then elegantly topped with goat curd and linseed crackers.

The menu also features venison glazed with black garlic that’s been aged for an impressive six weeks, raw Dexter beef from local cows reportedly fed four pints of beer a day, and, for dessert, a wonderful ice cream sandwich made with local damsons, including both the fruit and the stones.

One delightful surprise is a dish of just bread and butter – or rather, sourdough bread paired with a sour butter that’s been aged to perfection. The taste is so rich and intense that you might even be tempted to eat the napkins after a bite.

Down-to-earth

The dishes are served by James and his team of attentive waitstaff or by Tommy’s sous chefs, all eager to share the stories behind the ingredients. The atmosphere is relaxed yet filled with a sense of theater and anticipation.

Diners come from all over. During Dinogo's visit, neighboring tables included a couple enjoying a quiet overnight escape from their kids, and two of the Banks brothers' former teachers, who had traveled from York for the occasion.

It’s precisely this type of crowd that has helped propel the Black Swan to TripAdvisor fame.

“We aim to offer a genuine, down-to-earth Yorkshire experience, one that's of the highest quality but still accessible to regular people,” James tells Dinogo as the evening service winds down.

“I think this award reflects the fact that everyday people come here, enjoy the experience so much, and are inspired to share their thoughts in a review, which is fantastic,” he adds.

But is it truly the best restaurant in the world?

It’s certainly a strong contender, even if James isn’t entirely convinced.

“It’s incredible to hear such praise,” he says. “But honestly, we still have so much room to grow and improve. We’re a young team, and there’s so much more we want to achieve.”

The Black Swan, Oldstead, York; +44 1347 868387