Island Hopping in Vietnam: From Beaches to Retreats and Historic Ex-Prisons

As a child, when I fled Vietnam, I never imagined the islands we sought refuge from would someday transform into luxurious beach resorts.

Now, over 30 years later, that’s exactly what’s happening around Nha Trang, the coastal town where I grew up, located roughly 200 miles north of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). Nha Trang has evolved into a popular base for island getaways in Vietnam.

If you share my passion for discovering tropical destinations, Vietnam offers a range of stunning and captivating islands, including those once used as prisons, in Nha Trang and beyond.

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The Rise of Nha Trang

Nestled on Vietnam’s south-central coast, Nha Trang has long been a beloved getaway for locals, thanks to its year-round tropical warmth.

However, in the 1990s, after Vietnam reopened its borders, Nha Trang began to draw international travelers in search of a beach escape between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.

With palm-fringed beaches, ancient temples, budget-friendly accommodations, fresh seafood grilled on the shore, affordable booze cruises, and a vibrant bar scene where locals, expats, and tourists mingled at places like the Sailing Club, Nha Trang quickly became a hotspot for both relaxation and nightlife.

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After nearly a decade since my last trip, I returned to Nha Trang last February for Tet, the Lunar New Year celebration. The changes left me speechless.

The first sign of transformation was the arrival at the newly rebuilt Cam Ranh International Airport, located around 20 miles from Nha Trang. Originally constructed by the Americans during the war as part of a large military base, it was later used by the Russian Air Force.

As I walked through the airport, I overheard conversations in Chinese and Russian. With affordable direct flights from Moscow and Guangzhou, Nha Trang has become a popular destination for Russians and Chinese seeking to escape the winter chill.

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Luxury in Nha Trang

One of the private villas at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay.

Much like the rest of Vietnam, Nha Trang has experienced a hotel boom with no end in sight, offering a growing range of upscale accommodations. Big-name chains like Sheraton and luxurious resorts such as Mia and Amanoi are already catering to the city’s high-end visitors.

While not located on an island, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is tucked away in a secluded spot, surrounded by towering mountains and just a 20-minute boat ride from Nha Trang. The resort offers an array of amenities, including a spa, tennis courts, water skiing, hiking, and even cooking classes.

Whale Island

While Nha Trang is a lively city, it can feel overwhelming, particularly during peak seasons. For a more tranquil escape with untouched beaches, consider hopping over to a nearby island.

Whale Island is a budget-friendly, eco-conscious resort located just two hours by boat from Nha Trang. I first visited when the island opened, and I still remember how pristine and beautiful it was. Though the resort has expanded and upgraded its amenities over the years, it has maintained its quiet, no-frills atmosphere—no parties, no noise.

For nature enthusiasts and water sports fans, the island offers plenty of activities, including diving, snorkeling, sailing, and kayaking.

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Hon Tre Island

Vinpearl operates a resort on a secluded part of the island, featuring a lush 18-hole golf course designed by IMG Worldwide.

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Phu Quoc and Con Dao

A rendering of the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay, scheduled to open in 2017.

A preview of the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay, set to open in 2017. JW Marriott

Nha Trang isn't the only option for island hopping in the south. Just an hour's flight from Saigon, Phu Quoc and Con Dao both have dark histories as prison islands from the French colonial era and the Vietnam War. For those interested in the region's past, the Phu Quoc Prison museum is a must-see.

Today, Phu Quoc – located between Vietnam and Cambodia – is becoming one of the top island destinations in Southeast Asia for travelers.

The best part? International tourists flying directly to the island no longer need a visa. Before Phu Quoc became a tourist hotspot, its fame rested on its world-renowned fish sauce.

Produced on the island, it’s considered the finest in the world and is a key ingredient in Vietnamese cuisine. The island has transformed dramatically since my first visit in the late 1990s, when there were no international airports or major hotels, only a handful of guesthouses.

Six Senses Con Dao's beachfront pool villa.

Six Senses Con Dao's oceanfront pool villa. Courtesy David William Mitchener/Six Senses

Twenty years ago, a British expat living in Ho Chi Minh City fell in love with Con Dao but couldn’t find suitable accommodations. He and a few partners built bungalows, which later became Mango Bay – a laid-back resort offering rustic villas in a tranquil, natural setting.

Con Dao now offers a variety of hotels and resorts, with big-name brands like J.W. Marriott currently building properties on the island.

Located on the southern coast, the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay was designed by renowned resort architect Bill Bensley and is scheduled to open in late 2017.

The small island of Con Dao, though not developing as quickly as Phu Quoc, might be the next hidden gem for Vietnam island hoppers who want to explore a pristine destination before the crowds arrive.

The diving here is considered the best in Vietnam.

There’s no international airport, and accommodation is limited, with options like the Six Senses property and the recently opened Poulo Condor Resort catering to the luxury market. These islands, like Vietnam’s history, are a testament to rebirth and reinvention, showcasing the country’s remarkable recovery from the ravages of war.

In the end, the natural beauty remains the island's greatest draw.

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