Kaş: A pristine paradise on the Mediterranean's edge

From the spot where the sky meets the earth, a colossal figure lies resting along a mountain crest, gazing out over the Mediterranean Sea.

At least, that’s the perspective from Kaş's ancient harbor on Turkey’s southern coast. According to local legend, a female giant slumbers on the nearby island of Meis, also known as Kastellorizo in Greek. The tale says that if the sea ever unites them both at once, they will awaken and fall in love.

It’s a fittingly romantic story for a coastal town that remained relatively under the radar until the 1980s, when sun-kissed sailors docked their yachts to resupply at the harbor.

Soon after, backpackers from across Europe and the southern hemisphere began to arrive, adding a new layer of charm to the town.

Amidst it all, exiled heirs from affluent Istanbul families found refuge in Kaş (which means 'eyebrow' in Turkish), bringing with them a deep appreciation for music, fine coffee, and the great outdoors.

Thanks to its rugged terrain and the lack of a nearby airport, Kaş has managed to keep its quaint, fishing village atmosphere. Still, there’s no shortage of activities, whether you're the type to bask in the sun, indulge in culinary delights, or leap off a mountain for a paragliding adventure.

Like much of Turkey, Kaş is steeped in history. Once a bustling port known for its fine cedar and sea sponges, it became a prominent settlement under the Lycians before the Greek empire took hold.

Ancient Hittite texts from around 1200 BCE mention the region as Lukka, while the Greeks named it Antiphellos.

During the 2nd century BCE, in the Roman era, the Lycians established the Lycian League—history’s first recorded democratic union, with elected officials. The Lycians also believed in a meaningful afterlife, which led them to construct sarcophagi shaped like houses to care for their departed loved ones.

City of the Tombs

Even today, the town of Kaş is dotted with tombs—at street corners, along pedestrian paths, and scattered across the surrounding landscape.

This makes it easy to immerse yourself in history without even trying. That said, it helps to be familiar with the layout. The road that leads from the bus station to the mosque, Cumhuriyet Meydan (the town square), and the harbor is known as Atatürk Bulvarı.

Turn left at the bottom of the hill and follow Old Hospital Road to reach the open-air Hellenistic theater from the 1st century BCE. It's a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts, while music lovers flock here for free summer concerts.

The limestone seating faces the sea, offering the perfect spot to relax and let your mind wander, especially as the sun sets over the horizon.

Continue your journey towards Cukurbağ Yarımadası, also known as the peninsula, but be aware that the round trip is nearly seven miles. For avid walkers, part of the Lycian Way leads right up to the Sleeping Giant, where two ancient tombs await and offer stunning views.

A much easier—and far more exhilarating—way to take in those spectacular views is to enjoy a tandem paragliding flight over Kaş, taking off from the nearby Mount Assas.

Back in town, you can also check out one of the only two remaining water cisterns from the Hellenistic and Roman eras, tucked beneath a bar. It’s the perfect place to stop for a drink and a bit of history.

Let’s be honest, most visitors come for the sea, and it’s no exaggeration to say the water shifts through every imaginable shade of blue as the sun dances across the sky.

Some guesthouses and hotels offer direct access to the water, but there are plenty of other spots where sunbathers and swimmers can enjoy the pristine coastline.

Idyllic beaches

At Küçük Çakıl Beach, a small stretch of sand just east of the town square, restaurants with wooden terraces hug the cliffs, providing shade beneath leafy trees. It’s the ideal spot to simply relax, with the occasional refreshing dip in the sea.

Around three decades ago, local fishermen began offering boat trips to Limanağazı, supplementing their income. Back then, they would cast a line, and any catch would end up sizzling on a BBQ outside the only house on the island.

Today, small boats regularly transport visitors to Limanağazı’s two stunning beaches, both fully equipped for a day of leisure. History lovers can make their way to the second beach, where a trail leads up to Lycian tombs set against a dramatic rocky backdrop.

For a change of scenery without sacrificing the stunning sea, stroll to Büyük Çakıl Beach or catch a minibus to Kaputaş. Alternatively, take a boat tour—these aren’t your average trips, as they drop anchor to explore an underwater city, swim in a pirate’s cave, and visit an ancient fortress. A delicious BBQ lunch is included.

Kaş also offers diving, gület (traditional wooden boat) tours, and even the chance to visit another country—Meis is only about nautical miles away.

On Fridays, Greeks cross over from the island as locals from the hilltop villages above Kaş bring their fresh produce to the market just behind the bus station. Don’t forget to save some space in your luggage for a jar (or two) of local honey, renowned for its rich flavor thanks to the high-altitude pine forests.

A culinary haven

Kaş is a paradise for food lovers, offering everything from mouthwatering grilled meats, pide, and seafood meze to vegan options, plant-based cakes, and third-wave coffee, just to name a few.

In Kaş, you'll find traditional Turkish meyhanes (taverns) nestled in walled courtyards, intimate restaurants set in lush gardens overlooking the sea, chic minimalist cafes offering modern twists on classic dishes, and cheerful family-run eateries serving hearty home-cooked meals.

The town’s culinary scene comes alive after dark, with the evenings kicking off and winding down in Cumhuriyet Meydan, where you’ll find a statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey.

It’s a place for everyone: families, solo travelers, couples, locals, and tourists alike. Some dine in the restaurants lining the square, while others relax on the low stone wall or bench seats, enjoying freshly stuffed mussels and beer. Many wander off in the direction of Old Hospital Road, around the harbor, or into the narrow streets branching off from the square.

For a quieter drink or to indulge in deep conversation, head to the quirky bars along Terzi and Zümrüt streets, just past Uzun Çarşı. At the top of this cobblestone street stands the impressive fourth-century stone sarcophagus, known as the King’s Tomb (Likya Yazılı Anıt Mezar), a fantastic spot for a selfie backdrop.

Uzun Çarşı is the go-to street for handcrafted shoes, carpets, antiques, and vintage clothing, sold in charming former Greek houses built by families who relocated from Meis in the 19th century. Across town, a once-overlooked coastal path is now home to upscale bars and restaurants serving Greek-inspired fare, proving that what’s old can always be new again.

As night falls, groups of children, both local and international, dart around Atatürk Square, engaged in games that blend footballs and scooters. They weave in and out of napping dogs, love-struck teens, families munching on iced almonds, tipsy friends, and guitar-playing wannabe Rastafarians.

Many visitors return year after year, drawn by the warm local hospitality, breathtaking views, and crystal-clear waters. Kaş’s charm remains unchanged, even as modern marinas cater to the boating crowd on the opposite side of the peninsula. Here, time moves as slowly or as quickly as the gentle ebb and flow of the tide.