Kenya's Swahili Coast: Dhows and ancient cities

For centuries, the winds of the Indian Ocean have carried traders, warriors, and religions to the Swahili Coast. People from Arabia, Asia, and Europe have all arrived, each leaving behind a rich tapestry of history and culture.

The Kenyan coastline has been molded by dramatic shifts over time, with much still left to discover and explore.

From forgotten cities to vibrant urban centers, here are six reasons why you should visit:

1. A fort that's worth defending

Overlooking the city of Mombasa, separated from the mainland by Tudor Creek, Fort Jesus has a storied past. Centuries ago, Europeans and Arabs clashed over control of the fort and the city, with the Swahili people caught in the conflict.

As Fort Jesus education officer Rafael Igombo puts it, 'Whoever controlled the fort, ruled Mombasa.'

A visit to the city wouldn't be complete without seeing Fort Jesus. Built in the 1500s from coral rock, the fort took nearly three years to complete. It was constructed primarily by the Swahili people, who later sought the assistance of the Omanis to overthrow their Portuguese rulers.

After a three-year conflict, the Omanis took control of Mombasa, ushering in a wave of Arabian influence on Swahili culture – the term 'Swahili' itself means 'people of the sea' or 'people of the coast' in Arabic.

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2. Breathtaking Swahili architecture

Mombasa’s Old Town is a maze of Swahili architecture, featuring grand balconies, archways, and intricately designed doors, all with a touch of traditional Islamic style. These structures recall a time when immigration from Arabia and Asia was widespread, with Koranic scriptures adorning hidden corners throughout the area.

While much of the design is influenced by religion, Indian design elements from the 18th and 19th centuries also leave their mark. At the Swahili Center, local workshops teach younger generations traditional crafts like wood carving and fabric design, incorporating floral patterns and bold geometric shapes.

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3. Set sail on a dhow

For centuries, water has been the lifeblood of Swahili culture. The dhow has played a key role in both trade and sustenance, though today, the traditional fishermen of Mombasa are becoming increasingly rare.

Hop on a dhow and try your hand at fishing, or relax on one of the many evening cruises where everything is taken care of for you.

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4. Discover lost cities

Just north of Mombasa lies Jumba la Mtwana, which means 'the large house of slaves' in Swahili. Despite its name, this ancient village, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, predates the widespread slave trade of the 16th and 17th centuries along the East African coast.

Carbon dating and other evidence, including Chinese porcelain, suggest that the Omanis founded Jumba la Mtwana in the mid-1300s. At its peak, the village served as a bustling hub for traders from across the Indian Ocean, dealing in goods like turtle shells and ivory.

Similar to Jumba la Mtwana, Gede, a larger settlement, lies abandoned for reasons that remain unclear. Dating back to the 12th century, it spanned over 75 acres and is believed to have housed between 2,500 and 3,000 people. Easily accessible, these ancient sites remain frozen in time and shrouded in mystery.

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5. Experience life in a sultan’s palace

While it’s not an actual sultan’s palace, you can indulge in a luxury resort built with the backing of a Chinese company.

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6. Get a tattoo

The ancient art of using crushed Lawsonia leaves for Henna isn't exclusive to Swahili culture or Islam, but on the Kenyan coast, it’s done with a distinct local flair.

Henna is most commonly associated with weddings on the Kenyan coast, where brides are adorned with intricate designs. Guests often join in the tradition, with a ceremonial feel to the process—show up at the right time and you might get a Henna tattoo too.

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