Labuan Bajo and the Enchanting Beauty of Indonesia’s Dragon Archipelago

Manta rays glide gracefully through the swift currents of the Flores Sea, their wings undulating in rhythm. On the islands of Komodo and Rinca, Komodo dragons, the largest lizards on Earth, prowl through the dense scrubland. Meanwhile, a soft peach glow from the rising sun paints the dramatic contours of Padar Island’s rugged hills and narrow ridges.

It’s no wonder that Komodo National Park, a stunning archipelago of volcanic islands and vibrant coral reefs off the coast of Flores, has earned its UNESCO World Heritage status.

Labuan Bajo, a lively port town located on the northwest corner of Flores, is widely known as the gateway to Komodo National Park. It’s home to the newly modernized Komodo Airport, which unveiled its upgraded terminal in 2015.

Having hosted the G20 summit in 2022 and the ASEAN Summit in 2023, this region—famous for liveaboard diving expeditions and leisurely cruises aboard traditional phinisi sailing boats—is evolving rapidly as it prepares for even greater international attention.

Here’s what travelers can expect to experience in Labuan Bajo and its surrounding areas when Indonesia reopens to international visitors.

Labuan Bajo: More than just a port town

The name 'Labuan Bajo' translates to 'Place Where the Sea Gypsies Stop Over,' but the town offers much more than just a layover for booking cruises or shopping for pearls and abalone shells.

Labuan Bajo offers a wide range of accommodation options, from private island beach bungalows and well-known beachfront hotels to homestays and boutique lodgings. With numerous new hotels currently under construction, the area is gearing up for the influx of visitors expected in 2022.

While seafood feasts await and a handful of beach clubs line the coast, the town’s true highlights lie in its natural beauty, according to Sebastian Pandang, head of the local branch of the Indonesian Tourist Guides Association.

'When I lead city tours, I take visitors to Bukit Cinta, Batu Cermin, Gua Rangko, and Cunca Wulang,' he shares.

Around midday, when sunlight streams through the hillside entrance and illuminates the turquoise waters below, Gua Rangko, a marine cave accessible by boat near Labuan Bajo, rivals the famous Blue Grotto of Capri in its breathtaking beauty.

About an hour from Labuan Bajo, Cunca Wulang offers picturesque waterfalls and natural water slides, providing fun and photo opportunities for both adults and children alike.

Bukit Cinta offers stunning sunset views over the islands, while Batu Cermin cave, just a short 15-minute drive from the town, is renowned for its shimmering walls that reflect the fading sunlight.

Exploring further across Flores

For travelers with extra time, exploring the wider island of Flores is a must. More than twice the size of Bali, this elongated island is home to rich tribal cultures nestled in lush volcanic terrain.

Nestled high in the sky, the thatched conical huts of Wae Rebo, a tribal village, are reachable only by foot. In Luba and Bena, an ancient matrilineal culture thrives amidst megalithic tombs and the skulls of sacrificed buffalo.

Traditional rituals and sports, including armed boxing, are still practiced throughout the island’s lush highlands, where women continue to weave intricate ikat fabrics and the region’s coffee grows abundantly.

Further to the east, the majestic Kelimutu volcano calls travelers, its summit home to three striking crater lakes that shimmer with vivid mineral hues, shifting in color according to the water’s composition.

Each August, the Lio people gather at the lakeside to offer tributes to their ancestors and celebrate with traditional dances in their honor.

Komodo Island: A land of dragons

Komodo Island lies about two hours by boat from Labuan Bajo. The island’s main attraction is its thriving population of Komodo dragons.

'According to local legend, we believe the Komodo dragon and humans were born together, from the same mother,' says Ishak, a ranger at the national park on Komodo Island, who, like many Indonesians, goes by a single name.

Over the centuries, the villagers of Komodo and nearby Rinca Island, home to the majority of the park’s 5,000 or so dragons, have developed a harmonious coexistence with these formidable predators. However, they tend to graze their goats on islands where the dragons cannot reach them.

Despite their sluggish demeanor and sagging jowls, Komodo dragons are formidable hunters. Male dragons can grow up to three meters (nearly 10 feet) in length and can bring down prey as large as buffaloes with their powerful jaws and venomous bite.

Rangers guide visitors through the dragons' hunting grounds with nothing more than a simple forked stick, which they use as a last resort to pin the dragons' tails down if necessary.

'The dragons haven’t attacked a human in over two years,' says Ishak. 'And the last incident involved a Singaporean tourist who ventured out for a walk without a ranger.'

Hikes on Komodo Island range from short walks to nearby areas where the lethargic lizards lounge in search of food, to longer treks into the forests where their more active relatives stalk deer, wild boar, and other prey, all set to the backdrop of rare bird calls.

The heart of the Coral Triangle

Scuba enthusiasts have long hailed Komodo National Park as one of Indonesia’s premier diving spots. Nestled in the heart of the Coral Triangle, the world's marine biodiversity hotspot, the park is bathed by powerful currents that nourish vibrant corals and attract a variety of large marine life, from sharks to mantas and even dolphins.

Liveaboard dive boats flock to vibrant sites like Batu Bolong, an underwater pinnacle teeming with life where you can spot a turtle on one side and a reef shark on the other, as well as Manta Alley, where majestic rays, some reaching up to five meters in wingspan, gather to feed on plankton.

But you don’t need to be a certified diver to enjoy Komodo’s underwater wonders. Overnight, two-night, and even one-day cruises offer snorkelers the chance to explore untouched coral gardens, like those at Manjarite or Pink Rock, or to drift with the current along the reefs, such as those at Karang Makassar.

Snorkelers can dive into the crystal waters in search of manta rays at spots like Manta Point, where these majestic creatures circle above coral outcrops while smaller fish clean their bodies, or venture to find the sea turtles that graze on the lush seagrass of Komodo.

Island-hopping adventures

Island-hopping is one of the greatest pleasures of exploring Komodo National Park.

Padar, the park’s third-largest island after Komodo and Rinca, offers breathtaking sunrise views from its narrow ridge, where you can gaze across sculpted peaks and winding bays. The summit is accessible via a climb up hundreds of steps.

Kelor Island, a small volcanic cone adorned with a pristine white sand beach, offers sweeping 360-degree views of the jagged volcanic formations scattered across the Flores Sea.

For the perfect selfie, head to Karang Makassar, a low-lying white sand atoll encircled by pale turquoise waters, creating a truly magical setting.

Then there’s Pink Rock, a striking volcanic formation adorned with surreal pink, orange, and yellow rocks, streaked with veins of iron ore, providing an unforgettable backdrop.

More than just white sands, Komodo National Park is renowned for its pink beaches. Fragments of red coral tint the pale sands along several islands' shorelines, creating a natural palette of beige, pink, and turquoise hues.

As the sun sets, many overnight boats anchor off Kalong Island, a lush haven of mangrove forests home to swarms of flying foxes. At dusk, these bats take flight in a swirling mass, resembling smoke, as they venture to Komodo, Rinca, and even Flores in search of fruit—marking a dramatic and unforgettable end to the day.