Local Delights: Discovering where to eat and drink in Lyon, France

Surprisingly, it wasn't the cuisine that initially attracted me to Lyon.

While the traditional bistro offerings like stringy innards didn't appeal to me, exploring Lyon’s fusion dishes, vegetarian options, street food, and fine dining reveals a culinary scene that’s hard to rival.

A quick history: Lyon's acclaim for exceptional cuisine stems from savvy marketing, a bit of luck, and influential women. In 1900, the Michelin brothers from Clermont-Ferrand sought to boost their tire sales and devised a motorist’s guidebook to France featuring maps, restaurants, and hotels to encourage driving. More drivers meant more tire sales.

As Lyon lies directly between Paris and Nice, it began to welcome an increasing number of visitors. The previously overlooked (mostly women-run) bouchons started gaining attention from tourists and food critics alike. In 1933, a former farm girl from l’Ain, a single mother who rose through the ranks in service and bouchon kitchens, became the first ever to receive six Michelin stars. While Paul Bocuse's name is widely recognized across the city, it was the six-starred Eugénie Brazier who trained him.

Fast-forward more than 90 years, and many bouchons remain much like they were in Brazier's era, though prices have certainly risen. Fortunately, Lyon's culinary landscape has enjoyed another fortunate twist. With an established reputation for superb cuisine, young chefs seeking more affordable venues than Paris are flocking here. This has resulted in a diverse and innovative restaurant scene, where mealtimes are treated with the utmost reverence.

Here’s what I indulge in while in Lyon…

Breakfast

While croissants offer a sweet start to the morning, Lyon's breakfast star is even more decadent: pink praline brioche. The origins of the praline's vibrant hue are a mystery, but the nutty, sticky treat in bubblegum-colored brioche is pure bliss. Pralus’s large sharing brioches are sure to make you the life of any gathering, but for a more bite-sized option, try Antoinette Pain & Brioche. Lyon offers a fusion twist in every dish, including a pink praline babka from My Little Babka. As a Brit, I sometimes crave a savory brunch, and the breakfast croques from Le Desjeuneur in Croix-Rousse are absolutely the best, available every day.

Coffee

For those who prefer their coffee black, you can find a decent espresso for just over a euro almost anywhere. Un Brin de Folie serves good coffee, but its inviting atmosphere is what I truly adore. Nestled within a florist's shop, the ambiance feels refreshing, and they even host wreath-making workshops. Flat whites are a rarity, but the best one I've discovered is at Grimpeurs, a bike shop-cum-cafe, though it's on the pricier side. Their hot chocolate, infused with cozy spices, is absolutely divine.

Lunch

While grab-and-go meals may mark you as a tourist in France, some street food is simply irresistible: take Toke’s inventive empanadas, filled with delights like moussaka and palak paneer, or La Coquetterie’s generous gyros, with music blasting from a vintage record player as you wait.

Food Traboule is a beloved spot that everyone knows, and I can’t get enough of it. This food court boasts 12 different cuisines and is tucked away in the traboules (covered passageways) of the old city. Due to its popularity, queues can stretch down the street, so I prefer to visit for a mid-week lunch when it’s less crowded.

Lyon boasts 21 Michelin-starred restaurants, and while I don’t dine here regularly, I must highlight my favorite. Jérémy Galvan offers an eight-course lunch menu that’s a full sensory adventure, where you’re invited to wear headphones for certain dishes, often leaving you guessing what you're savoring.

Apéro

My choice for an apéro (pre-dinner drink) shifts with the seasons. As soon as the days get longer, I treat myself to an Aperol Spritz at the Opéra’s rooftop bar, Les Muses, which operates from 6pm Wednesday to Sunday. You can peek down into the inner courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville while enjoying stunning sunset views behind the Fourvière Basilica. Currently, I love Velcroc, a cafe and bike repair workshop by the Rhône, known for its vibrant people-watching and regular early evening live music.

Dinner

I can’t stop raving about Ayla; I can’t stop writing about it or thinking about it, but I can’t tell you exactly what to order since the menu is always evolving. Just know it’s Franco-Lebanese cuisine where even the most mundane vegetables burst with flavor. In France, the title of best pizzeria is fiercely contested in any foodie city. I take the quest for Lyon's best pizza seriously, and the clear winner is Vico Pizzeria in the 2ème. The dough-to-sauce ratio is impeccable, but it's small, so be sure to book ahead. For a special dinner, consider Alebrije’s Franco-Mexican tasting menu, where Chef Carla Kirsch Lopez masterfully juggles cooking, serving, and chatting with guests. Don’t forget to enjoy a few margaritas.

Bar

When I first arrived in Lyon as a student, we would dance the night away at Le Sirius, a charming péniche (live-aboard narrowboat) bar. It’s impressive that, 11 years later, it remains a solid choice, still prioritizing atmosphere over tidiness. For another lively spot, La Faute aux Ours buzzes with energy every night of the week. Its decor is a delightful mishmash of your grandparents’ finest china and oversized dildos. For the most budget-friendly drinks in town, head to La Cave des Dominicains (open Friday evenings only), run by monks in the cellar of their convent, where the night wraps up with prayers for the tipsy students who frequent it.