Local Insights About Marseille You Should Know

As an American residing in Marseille, I have valuable tips to share, including the best ways to navigate the city, must-visit neighborhoods, how to order pizza like a true local, and why you'll find yourself cheering for Olympique de Marseille even if football isn't your thing.

Here are essential tips to enhance your experience in Marseille.

1. Use the shuttle bus from the airport

Cut down on taxi costs (which can be twice as expensive as Uber) by taking the shuttle bus. For just 10€ each way, these navettes transport you to Saint-Charles train station in the heart of the city in less than 30 minutes. They run every 10 minutes (20 minutes after hours), ensuring you won't waste time waiting.

2. Spend 3 days or more to fully explore the area

Dedicate two or three days to visit the city's must-see attractions, including the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica (known as the “Bonne Mère” or “Good Mother”), the contemporary MUCEM museum, and the historic 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean. Wander along the picturesque Vieux-Port and the charming cobblestone streets of Le Panier, the oldest neighborhood. Consider adding another day to explore further afield, such as Le Corbusier’s Brutalist gem, La Cité Radieuse, or the Friche la Belle de Mai cultural center.

A longer visit allows you to savor the beauty of the Mediterranean Sea. Nature enthusiasts will find the stunning limestone fjords at Calanques National Park irresistible. Experience their magnificence through a scenic hike or a relaxing boat ride.

3. Explore 111 distinct neighborhoods

Locals compare Marseille to a collection of 111 villages, each with its unique character. The multicultural area of Noailles illustrates how migration has influenced the city’s culture and cuisine. Longchamp is a family-friendly district as stylish as the palace it’s named after. The former industrial fishing village of L’Estaque once served as a muse for Cezanne.

4. Leave the car behind. Opt for a bike rental

Driving in Marseille can be chaotic, with unruly traffic and scarce parking. Using public transport is a more reliable option. Alternatively, rent one of the city’s electric bikes (Le Velo) to enjoy the scenic coastal route along Corniche Kennedy.

5. Bring comfortable walking shoes

Navigating Marseille’s uneven sidewalks and hilly terrain calls for durable footwear. For instance, the challenging ascent to Notre-Dame de la Garde, the city’s highest point, is a must. Walking is the best way to soak in the lively scooters, squawking seagulls, and vibrant diversity that characterize Marseille.

6. Remember to pack your swimsuit

With 26 miles of coastline, Marseille boasts a variety of beaches. The closest to the city center, Plage des Catalans, is the most frequented, where sun-seekers crowd the soft sand. Anse de la Fausse Monnaie features flat rocks perfect for sunbathing like a lizard (lézarder au soleil). Nearby, the curved cove of Anse de Maldormé is ideal for a refreshing swim.

In the evenings, enjoy vibrant sunsets with a bottle of rosé and a takeout pizza, just like the locals do. Avoid swimming during or immediately after heavy rainfall, as the Mediterranean can become polluted from overflowing sewers.

7. Prepare for the mistral wind

With a pleasant climate year-round, Marseille’s mistral wind catches many visitors off guard. This famous wind can gust up to 65 mph, toppling patio umbrellas and whisking hats from heads. It can blow for a day or even a week. More than just a weather phenomenon, the mistral is a cultural symbol and a source of pride for Marseillais, who are resilient enough to withstand it. Plus, this natural force contributes to the stunningly clear blue skies.

8. Ditch the formal attire

The relaxed vibe of the south calls for casual outfits suitable for both the streets and the beach. Look for iconic striped shirts, marinières, espadrilles, or blue work jackets at France’s oldest hardware store, Maison Empereur. Sneakers are always stylish. Alternatively, embrace local fashion with claquettes-chausettes, the trendy sandals and socks combo popularized by the hometown rapper Jul.

9. Cheer for the local team

As the only French football club to have claimed the Champions League title (unlike their rivals in Paris), Olympique de Marseille is revered in the city like a faith. Even non-football fans are drawn to l’OM. From August to May, the Velodrome stadium vibrates with the cheers of passionate supporters. If you can’t secure a ticket, the atmosphere at Rookie’s Bar in the Vieux-Port is unmatched.

10. Savor a wood-fired pizza

Rumor has it that Marseille boasts more pizzerias than New York City (typical exaggeration for the city). Neapolitan immigrants introduced pizza to this port city in the late 19th century. The locals added their twist by incorporating anchovies and Emmental cheese in the classic moité-moité (half and half). Relish your pizza with a side of history at the 80-year-old Chez Etienne in Le Panier or at Chez Zé, a family-run spot near Calanques National Park (both pizzerias accept cash only). Following local custom, order a pizza to share as a starter before enjoying other dishes.

11. Request a pastis by name

Dedicated pastis enthusiasts stick to their favorite brand. Ricard, the original, and 51 are the go-to choices. Local producers of this Marseille-born spirit include Pastis de la Plaine and Château des Creissauds. The standard mix is 5 parts cold water to 1 part pastis, making it the ideal refreshment for daytime sipping or apéro, the joyful happy hour of the south.

12. Don’t hesitate to add ice to your wine

While tourists once struggled to find ice in France, Marseille is different. Here, table wine is often served with glaçons (ice cubes) to keep it chilled on warm days. You can even order a large goblet of champagne filled with ice, aptly named piscine (swimming pool).

13. Explore more than just bouillabaisse

This iconic fish stew has gained a legendary status, often accompanied by a steep price. However, many locals prefer dishes like supions à l’ail (garlic-sautéed squid), moules gratinées (mussels baked with garlicky breadcrumbs)—can you spot the trend?—or whole daurade (sea bream) and loup (sea bass). Fish-loving eateries include the whimsically nautical Boîte à Sardines, the Marseille brasserie Paule et Kopa, and Chez Paul in the fishing harbor of Les Goudes.

14. Opt for tap water

Is it safe to drink tap water in Marseille? Absolutely! The city is known for having some of the finest drinking water in France, despite its pollution issues. Feel free to order a carafe d’eau (water) or playfully request a bottle of Château la Pompe.

15. Don’t fall for all the stereotypes

Marseille is often seen as a dangerous city. However, most major crimes happen in areas far from typical tourist spots. Stay street smart as you would in any urban area: avoid walking alone at night, keep valuables out of sight in your car, and be vigilant with your belongings at the beach.

16. Be wary of pickpockets

Like in many large cities, tourists are often targeted by pickpockets. Keep your purse, camera, and wallet secure in crowded places and on public transport. Be cautious of phone theft, especially in the bustling streets of Noailles and at popular attractions. Don’t leave your phone unattended on outdoor tables.