Medellín’s Cafes and Farms Are Reclaiming Colombian Coffee

“In the blacksmith's house, a wooden hoe.”

This well-known Colombian saying (similar to the expression “the shoemaker’s child always goes barefoot”) highlights how experts often neglect to share their skills with their own communities. In Medellín, the capital of Antioquia in northwestern Colombia, it's not blacksmiths but coffee farmers and cafe owners who have overlooked their neighbors. While Colombia is globally recognized for its high-quality coffee, producers have historically exported the finest beans, leaving only lower-grade coffee for local consumers, which didn't reflect the region's stellar reputation.

For years, residents accepted this situation, settling for basic filter coffee known as tinto (red), likely named for the brewed coffee's reddish hue. However, in just under a decade, a group of entrepreneurs has cultivated a cafe culture that complements the region’s renowned farming, introducing Medellín to third-wave cafes and modern brewing techniques. Nowadays, young people can be seen savoring pour-overs, iced coffees, and cappuccinos in stylish spaces adorned with concrete and vibrant greenery.

While these establishments may resemble cafes found globally, they uniquely position Medellín as one of the rare cities where high-quality coffee is cultivated, harvested, roasted, and enjoyed. They have also transformed the dynamics of the supply chain and highlighted the economic importance of Colombian coffee.

Coffee literally blankets the hillsides of Medellín. After the Jesuits introduced the coffee plant to Colombia in the 18th century, the industry became essential to the economic growth of the Antioquia region, especially during the 20th century. Currently, 114,000 hectares in Antioquia are dedicated to coffee cultivation, spanning over 95,000 farms and cared for by more than 76,000 coffee growers, as reported by La Federación Nacional de Cafeteros.

For much of Medellín’s history in coffee production, workers would roast beans in a pan, grind them, brew coffee in an olleta (a traditional metal pot), sweeten it with panela, and strain it through a mesh cloth. Ground filter coffee sweetened with panela is still commonly found at street stalls, offices, cafes, and corrientazos (restaurants offering affordable meals), where it is often served for free after a meal. At home, most people opt for a filter machine for convenience.

“We are here to change that perspective,” says Nicolás Echavarría, one of the founders of Pergamino Café.

The Echavarría family operates several coffee farms outside Medellín and collaborates with farmers throughout Colombia. For many years, their main focus was on exporting beans, but in 2012 they shifted their focus to the local market by opening a cafe on Primavera Street. The family has since expanded to eight locations in the city, training locals to become skilled baristas. Although around 60 percent of their revenue still comes from exports, they aim to achieve a more balanced 50-50 ratio with domestic sales.

“It’s about educating customers to appreciate the various types of beans and brewing techniques,” Nicolás explains. The cafes have redefined the coffee audience; once primarily associated with working adults, Pergamino now attracts a younger crowd with offerings like cold brew and frappes.

The Echavarrías are particularly committed to fair compensation for their producers, partnering with organizations like the Women’s Agricultural Association of the Cauca Department to provide fair rates along with training and insights into organic farming practices.

“Our aim is to ensure that most of the profits reach the coffee farmers,” says Pedro Miguel Echavarría, Nicolás’s brother. “As a family-run business, we must prioritize the long-term sustainability of our operations. If we don’t provide our producers with a stable and fair income, we won’t have any suppliers in the future.”

He notes that the average age of Colombian coffee farmers is rising, with little generational succession. In a potentially contracting market, offering better pay could secure a reliable supply for the brand and its cafes, particularly for specialty beans from high-altitude regions.

Global coffee chains like Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts promote their ethical sourcing initiatives and social and environmental responsibility towards coffee-producing communities, but local businesses often make a grMytour impact.

“What actually reaches the [farmer] in terms of income is quite minimal,” Pedro Miguel comments on these international initiatives. “A small, local company is more attuned to the immediate circumstances of the communities they serve, focusing on enhancing productivity and overall quality of life.”

Coffee serves as a significant catalyst for social and economic transformation, particularly in a city like Medellín, where residents experienced the direct impacts of cocaine cartels in the ’80s and ’90s, rampant economic disparity, and paramilitary violence that displaced many coffee farmers.

The coffee sector, the city, and its history are closely linked in the La Sierra neighborhood, an area once ruled by paramilitary groups and now home to many displaced individuals. When Cristian Raigosa received a coffee sample from a local farm, he was taken aback by its quality, prompting him to collaborate with Joan Molina and Amanda Bravo to establish Rituales, a roastery that partners with 35 families from La Sierra.

“We emphasize La Sierra because we were impressed by several aspects,” Raigosa states. “The fact that coffee is grown within the city. The exceptional quality of the coffee. And most importantly, the dire conditions of the coffee farmers, who live in extreme poverty so close to the city. Their vulnerability surpasses that of farmers from more remote regions.”

In addition to their facility in the city where Raigosa, Bravo, and Molina focus on fermentation and roasting techniques, Rituales operates a shop in the Laureles neighborhood, an area gradually undergoing gentrification, now known for its tree-lined streets, fruit vendors, cultural sites, and restaurants. The contrast between La Sierra and Laureles is stark, yet Rituales bridges the gap between these neighborhoods.

Next up is Urbania, a coffee shop established in 2016 by young entrepreneurs who merge business with social and environmental initiatives. The cafe collaborates with farmers nationwide, working closely with producers, conflict victims, and former combatants in Antioquia. Their commitment to these practices has earned them B Corp Certification, enabling the company to grow to eight locations throughout Medellín.

“By forming these partnerships, we believed we were aiding in the country’s peacebuilding efforts,” shares co-owner Julián Gamboa. This approach has proven successful, as their Paz (Peace) line of coffees has become a top seller.

“We recognized that this model could also be applied to environmental initiatives,” Gamboa explains. “We began collaborating with conservation NGOs that connect with coffee farmers, and now we are involved in various projects aimed at preserving forests, jaguars, and bears.”

Gamboa emphasizes that none of this progress would have been possible without a shift in mindset among Medellín’s consumers, who are beginning to value their own specialty coffee.

“Consumers are now ready to spend more for higher quality, and I believe a new culture of consumption is emerging,” he states. He’s optimistic about the industry’s expansion and highlights the many cafes popping up throughout Medellín, with some even considering branching out to Bogotá.

While V60 and Chemex pour overs are trending at the city's latest cafes, there’s still a place for the classic tinto — ideally made with the finest coffee beans from Medellín.

Liliana López Sorzano is a food and travel writer dividing her time between Mexico City and Bogotá, Colombia, contributing to various local and international publications. She previously served as the editor-in-chief of Food & Wine en Español.