My Adventure: 6 Days of Road-Tripping Through El Salvador

We were looking for a quick escape to a Spanish-speaking destination that was nearby, warm (but not excessively hot!), and off the beaten path. El Salvador seemed perfect! my husband Dan and I agreed.

After an incredible week in neighboring Guatemala in 2020, our curiosity was piqued. Significant and somewhat controversial policy changes under Nayib Bukele, El Salvador’s young and popular president, have greatly improved public safety and opened up previously unreachable areas of the country. Learning about its charming highland towns, majestic volcanoes, and legendary beaches (which earned it a 2023 Dinogo Planet Best in Travel pick), we set out to explore this Massachusetts-sized nation in six action-packed days.

What was your mode of transportation? How much did it set you back?

We opted to rent a car at the international airport for $65 a day – it turned out to be our best choice. The roads are superb, featuring well-maintained highways and occasional dual carriageways that connect towns, even in the mountainous regions. We enjoyed driving beneath a canopy of vibrant red flame trees and through coastal tunnels, passing hills that dive down toward the crashing waves below.

Despite our initial concerns about road conditions, we were pleasantly surprised. We had even considered the challenge of traveling via public buses. However, our research was misguided: the roads were well-paved and smooth, with very few potholes, even in the more isolated areas. (One exception was a narrow, winding road Google Maps labeled as a “shortcut,” which was quite a ride!) We covered nearly 350 miles in six days with ease.

What hidden gem did you discover that surprised you?

We spent two nights in Suchitoto, a charming town known for its exceptional colonial architecture. There isn’t a lot happening here – and that’s what makes it so appealing. Enjoying ice cream in the main square while watching children play and elders chat gave us a delightful glimpse into Salvadoran small-town life. We also cherished the people-watching at the Puerto San Juan pavilion on Lake Suchitlán, just outside of town, where families come together for hearty Sunday lunches featuring fried fish and beer.

What was the biggest surprise during your trip?

The Qute, an auto imported from India, has taken the place of El Salvador’s traditional three-wheeled tuk-tuks in rural towns. These charmingly compact four-door vehicles look just like the car emoji (🚗) and can somehow accommodate four passengers. Locals use them as taxis on the narrow, winding roads of their villages.

What was your favorite activity during the trip?

Our three-hour trek to the edge of Santa Ana volcano, one of the three stunning craters in Parque Nacional Los Volcanes. For $30, we hired a guide to lead us to the crater rim (this is mandatory for ecological and economic-development reasons; don't make the mistake we did by thinking the entrance fee at the parking lot was a scam). After about an hour, the jungle cleared, and we ascended a rocky trail, with views of Lake Coatepeque and the surrounding countryside expanding dramatically. The reward was a breathtaking view straight down into the sea-green crater lake, shimmering and bubbling due to volcanic activity from deep within the Earth.

How much does a beer cost? (Any local recommendations?)

A refreshing Suprema lager will cost you just $1.25 (El Salvador uses the US dollar).

What was the most touristy experience you had?

Driving along the Ruta de las Flores through the western highlands. As we gained altitude, the air remained cool, with clouds wrapping around slopes adorned with forests and coffee farms. The picturesque hilltop towns of Juayúa, Apaneca, and Ataco (where we stayed) exude a tranquil charm that deserves more visitors. We encountered very few other travelers during this part of our journey.

We chose to spend two nights in El Tunco, a surfer's paradise that’s arguably the most famous spot in the country. The beach was breathtaking, featuring fierce waves that created a peculiar clunking sound as they stirred the potato-sized stones along the shore – swimming was definitely off the table. However, the lively surf-and-party scene proved a bit overwhelming for us, prompting us to shorten our stay and add a stop in San Salvador.

What’s your best advice for someone planning a similar journey?

Make sure to include San Salvador in your itinerary.

The revitalized Centro Historico is bustling with street life and features a large market where vendors compete for attention with bullhorns and lively music. We found the crypt of the cathedral particularly poignant: Óscar Romero, the outspoken bishop assassinated by paramilitary groups and later canonized, is laid to rest here. We enjoyed an amazing dinner at 1893, a stylish indoor-outdoor restaurant with a sophisticated international menu.

A must-see attraction in San Salvador is the stunning El Rosario church. Its exterior, resembling a concrete bunker built in 1971, contrasts sharply with the interior, where light streams through colorful glass, creating a sanctuary filled with beautiful rainbow reflections.

What’s the photo from your trip that you cherish the most, and where was it taken?

We stepped out from El Rosario into Plaza Libertad, where a vibrant dance party was in full swing. I was amazed by the energy of the dancers as they moved to live music under the blazing sun, with people of all ages, body types, and skill levels joyfully participating. The exuberance of this moment left a lasting impression on me, perfectly reflecting my own joy in exploring this Central American gem.