My delightful 3-day cycling journey around the lakes and forests of Sweden

A stunning archipelago with over 1000 islands. A cycling trail that traces an old railway alongside and above the lake. The sounds of loons and ospreys echoing at dusk. Timeworn deciduous woodlands.

Though I'd never set foot in Sweden before, a biking adventure around Lake Åsnen in the country’s southern region sounded like a dream come true, so I eagerly seized the chance to embark on a three-day cycling getaway there in June.

Uncover the world's most captivating experiences with our weekly newsletter sent directly to your inbox. In the Småland region, Lake Åsnen has been enhancing its tourism efforts in recent years with a focus on sustainability and local engagement. In 2022, the non-profit organization Green Destinations awarded Åsnen its top honor, Platinum, as part of its sustainable destinations program. The involvement of local communities and businesses has fostered a flourishing yet mindful tourism area that prioritizes the local environment, and I was excited to experience it firsthand.

My cycling adventure primarily led me through the tranquil lakes, charming villages, and Swedish cultural sites of Åsnen. Visitors can customize their own itineraries in this region or simplify their planning by collaborating with a local bike rental service.

Day 1: From Växjö to Torne

I took a train directly from Copenhagen airport, crossing the Øresund Bridge that links Denmark and Sweden. After a long journey from Dublin to Scandinavia the day before, the peaceful carriage was a joy—taking me straight to Växjö, the starting point of my bikepacking journey. It was a simple and convenient trip.

The cycling route begins at Växjö train station, where I rented my bike from RentBike.se. My goal was to navigate around the lake in a counterclockwise direction over the next three days, following a popular (and well-marked) trail that blends cycle paths with road biking, ultimately returning to the train station. I packed my saddlebags, put on my helmet, and set off.

The beginning of the journey was delightful—I felt energetic, and each curve in the road revealed picturesque scenes of wooden houses and lush fields. After cycling 28km (17 miles), I took a timely break at Huseby Bruk, an historic ironworks featuring a restored house and gardens from the 19th century. Now managed by the Swedish government, it offers tours or you can simply stroll the grounds.

I uncovered fascinating tales about the estate and its former owners, including a daughter who narrowly escaped losing her home to a prince and his conspirator, and the uncertainty surrounding her royal lineage. Visit for the stunning gardens; linger for the intriguing stories.

Huseby Bruk serves as a perfect entry point to Åsnen National Park, where you may spot the region's so-called Big Five: moose, white-tailed eagles, cranes, ospreys, and black-throated divers.

After another 10km (6 miles) of cycling, I arrived in Torne feeling hot, dusty, and weary. My accommodation for the night was Torne Gård, a charming bed-and-breakfast where I enjoyed a hearty Swedish dinner featuring elk and wild boar burgers, carrots, broccoli, potatoes, salad, and a rich, flavorful gravy prepared by the owner, Edith Karlsson.

Day 2: From Torne to Urshult

I set off early the next morning, eager to complete most of my cycling before the heat of the day took hold. With the window ajar, the cheerful songs of birds in the trees outside made it unlikely I would have slept in, even if I had tried. After a hearty breakfast, I embarked on the next segment of my journey.

This stretch of the route became my favorite, offering a stunning trail through Åsnen National Park. Initially enveloped by trees with fleeting views of the lake, I soon found myself riding along an old railway bed, flanked by the lake on both sides, adorned with lily pads, buzzing insects, and the calls of birds in the ancient forest. The path was serene; I encountered very few others. I discovered lovely spots for a swim or a snack, along with some hiking diversions and extra paths to explore. I could have pedaled through this paradise indefinitely.

As I neared the end of this leg, I returned to the road leading to Urshult Camping, situated on a tranquil stretch of the lake’s southern shore. The campsite featured a blend of caravans, tents, and cabins, yet retained a peaceful and laid-back vibe. Guests had access to canoes, fishing gear, and paddle boards, as well as a small beach area for swimming. I was fortunate to secure a glamping tent for the night, which felt incredibly luxurious after cycling 35km (22 miles). I relaxed on the pier by the calm lake, surrounded by forest, gazing up at the clear blue sky under a blazing sun with barely a whisper of a breeze. It was sheer bliss.

I dined at Kurrebo, a fantastic vegetarian and vegan buffet restaurant offering views of the lake and forest, radiating a positive, community-focused, and sustainable atmosphere. To cap off the day, I witnessed one of the most stunning sunsets of my life back at the campsite: the sky and its mirrored lake transformed into incredible hues of pink and purple, accompanied only by the occasional call of a loon and a few boats returning from their lake excursions.

Day 3: From Urshult to Teleborgs Slott

On the third day of my cycling journey, temperatures were set to climb to 27°C (80°F). I began on an old train right-of-way covered in loose gravel (thank goodness for my bike’s suspension!). Heading north along the eastern shore of the lake, I enjoyed a tranquil, scenic trail with gentle hills and a couple of thrilling descents. At times, while pedaling through the forest, all I could hear was the melodious birdsong, prompting me to take out my earphones and simply listen.

That evening's stop was at Teleborg Castle (Teleborgs Slott), a magnificent palace constructed in 1900 as a wedding gift for a local count. Today, it serves as a large hotel and restaurant by the lake, surrounded by beautiful grounds. The castle's rooms are spacious with high ceilings and shared bathrooms, while the restaurant offers an intriguing local menu, albeit with a somewhat formal atmosphere. Nevertheless, spending the night in a castle was the perfect way to conclude what had been an amazing three-day bike-packing adventure.

How to make it a reality

At RentBikes.se, you can find a variety of bicycles – including standard, mountain, and electric options – as well as child attachments, all equipped with locks, helmets, pumps, and repair kits. Packages start at $320, encompassing bike rental, accommodation, and meals, with extra fees based on the type of bike selected. You also have the option to pay for luggage transport between accommodations, allowing you to travel without the burden of heavy saddlebags.

The route is suitable for anyone with a moderate level of fitness. The path is predominantly flat, and there are plenty of chances to stop, take breaks, and refuel. Ensure you bring enough snacks and water, as some stretches of the ride have long distances without any shops or cafes. Also, don’t forget mosquito repellent for those evenings by the lake.

Amy was invited to Sweden by Visit Sweden. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.