Navigating Indonesia: Tips for Effortless Island-Hopping

Indonesia, with its thousands of islands stretching over 5000 km (3100 miles) from east to west, certainly feels more like a vast archipelago than a single nation. The immense seas, dense jungles, towering mountains, and challenging roads demand extra patience for those eager to explore this captivating region.

The good news is that traveling has become much simpler in recent years. Air travel has largely replaced boat journeys, and highways have connected remote regions. However, there are still traditional and slower methods of transport that offer a unique experience. Here’s what you need to know for smooth navigation in Indonesia.

Fly to access the distant islands

With the rise of low-cost airlines, flying has become the preferred mode of transport between islands. Budget travelers often choose carriers like Citilink, Lion Air, and Sriwijaya Air, while those prioritizing punctuality and service typically select Garuda Indonesia. Airfare can vary significantly based on distance, flight frequency, and airline quality; for example, a one-way ticket from Jakarta to Bali may cost as little as US$35, while a flight to Papua could reach US$350.

The government is actively promoting the development of new airports in remote tourist spots like Labuan Bajo (the gateway to the Komodo Islands), Silangit (serving Lake Toba), and Toraja. Gone are the days of exhausting journeys; you can now reach your dream destinations within hours from Jakarta. Most flights to Maluku or Papua will have a stopover in Makassar, which serves as the aviation hub for eastern Indonesia.

Opt for a boat ride for an authentic island experience

Pelni, the main sea transport operator owned by the government, links hundreds of coastal cities across Indonesia. It's advisable to book your seats early. Fares from Jakarta to Papua can start as low as US$70, but be prepared for a challenging seven-day journey. Consider yourself warned.

For quicker and more dependable boat journeys, ferry crossings between islands are your best option. A classic island-hopping itinerary involves traveling overland through Java, then taking ferries to Bali, Lombok, and continuing eastward to the Komodo Islands.

While riverboats once dominated transportation in the densely forested region of Kalimantan, they have largely been supplanted by cars due to new road construction. However, you can still embark on a four to six-day boat tour along the Mahakam River to explore traditional Dayak villages nestled deep within the jungle.

Traveling by train offers a delightful way to appreciate the rural landscapes.

Trains represent one of the most comfortable and reliable methods for overland travel across Java, where the majority of Indonesia's railway network is situated. The true highlight is the breathtaking scenery of enchanting Javanese volcanoes and verdant rice paddies visible from your train window.

You can book train tickets up to a month in advance through the KAI website. Executive Class offers reclining seats and air-conditioning that might make you forget you're in a tropical climate (don’t forget to bring a jacket). In contrast, Economy Class seats are non-reclining and can get quite crowded.

You can also travel by train to various regions of Sumatra, including Aceh and North Sumatra. Additionally, the Trans-Sulawesi railway project is underway near Makassar.

Rent a vehicle to discover hidden gems

Indonesia's public transport system is quite limited, even in the more developed regions of Java and Bali. Having your own vehicle allows for greater freedom to explore the more remote areas.

Renting a car is straightforward: just bring your passport and an international driving license, and keep in mind that Indonesians drive on the left. Rates start at US$40 per day, but be ready for diverse road conditions, from potholes to heavy traffic. Hiring a local driver can be a more convenient option.

In Bali and Lombok, renting a moped is often the simplest way to get around the islands. Remember to wear a helmet, even if you're just a passenger on a motorcycle.

Buses are cost-effective and accessible

Buses remain the primary form of land transport in Indonesia due to their affordability and availability. Typically, there's no need to book in advance, except during the Eid holidays when many people travel to their hometowns.

Among the many bus companies in Indonesia, the government-operated DAMRI offers a comprehensive network and dependable service. You can purchase tickets via their website or through their mobile apps.

Economy buses offer the lowest fares, but they tend to be slow, with numerous stops to pick up passengers along the route. In tourist hotspots like Yogyakarta and Toraja, you can find executive bus services that feature comfortable reclining seats akin to those in business class flights.

Navigate Jakarta’s traffic by utilizing public transport

Jakarta is infamous for being one of the most congested cities globally, but its extensive (if not fully integrated) mass transit system can ease the challenges of getting around.

The Transjakarta buses operate on dedicated lanes, helping you bypass frustrating traffic congestion. While there are numerous corridors that may seem complex, you can use the Trafi app for navigation. Most tourists favor Corridor 1, as it connects key attractions like Kota Tua, Monumen Nasional, Museum Nasional, and Roundabout Hotel Indonesia.

The recently opened MRT Jakarta is the most contemporary transport option in the city, though its limited track length raises concerns among many foreign visitors, similar to the LRT Jakarta system.

Keep in mind that Jakarta's public transport operates on a cashless payment system. You can obtain a transport card at MRT stations or select Transjakarta bus stops. Recharging your card is possible at MRT stations or any Alfamart convenience stores throughout Jakarta.

For a nostalgic experience, catch a becak.

The traditional manual tricycle rickshaw, known as becak, once dominated the streets of Indonesia. However, due to bans in many cities, it has become almost a relic of the past. Nevertheless, becaks can still be found in certain tourist spots in Jakarta and Yogyakarta, offering visitors a glimpse into Indonesia's history.

The becak has also transformed into motorized versions, such as the bajaj in Jakarta and the bentor (motorized becak) in Sumatra and Sulawesi. These alternatives continue to provide locals with affordable and practical short-distance transportation. To delve into the history of the becak, visit the Indonesian Becak Museum in Bali.

Ridesharing apps simplify transportation.

As digital technology has gained traction, ridesharing apps have become a staple in urban Indonesian life. The largest, Indonesian-owned Gojek, began as a service for ordering motorbike taxis (ojek) but has since evolved into a super-app, allowing users to order everything from taxis and cars to food deliveries and groceries.

The app supports two languages and features an automatic chat translation tool, making it easier to communicate with drivers who don’t speak English. Gojek operates in over 160 cities throughout Indonesia, including remote areas like Papua. Wherever you are, navigating is just a tap away on your smartphone.

Traveling with accessibility in mind in Indonesia.

Navigating Indonesia can be particularly tough for individuals with disabilities. The uneven and potholed sidewalks can be problematic, and street vendors often obstruct the lanes designated for visually impaired pedestrians. However, Jakarta's main thoroughfares, Thamrin and Sudirman, along with many modern shopping centers, prioritize accessibility.

The Transjakarta bus system may not be suitable for those with mobility challenges, as most bus stops require climbing stairs via overpasses, and boarding the bus can be a jump. Conversely, MRT stations, including the Railink airport trains in Jakarta and Medan, are designed to accommodate wheelchair users.

Although Bali is a leading international tourist hotspot, it remains largely inaccessible for wheelchair users. Consider reaching out to specialized travel operators like Bali Access Travel, and be sure to visit Dinogo Planet’s Accessible Travel page for a comprehensive guide on accessible travel options.

Reasons I enjoy traveling around Indonesia by boat.

Many travelers conclude their Indonesian journeys without ever taking a boat ride, which is unfortunate given that water covers nearly 80% of the country. While boat journeys may be leisurely, they provide a chance to truly engage with Indonesia's identity as an archipelagic nation.

A sailing adventure from Labuan Bajo to Komodo on a traditional pinisi sailboat would be enchanting, with opportunities for snorkeling alongside majestic manta rays. No trip to Indonesia feels complete without embracing the vastness of its ocean.