Navigating Panama from the City to the Rainforest

Panama is so narrow that you can drive across it in about an hour, but this Central American jewel is brimming with attractions. It ranks among the most biologically diverse regions on the planet, yet it can easily fit within the borders of South Carolina.

Getting around Panama is quite manageable despite its tropical environment. The country features thousands of kilometers of well-paved roads, an efficient bus system, water taxis, a modern Metro line in the capital, and, of course, the iconic Panama Canal.

However, be cautious: in some remote areas of Panama, your only means of travel may involve navigating a crocodile-filled river in a rickety canoe or hacking through dense foliage with a machete.

Whether you prefer a safe approach or an adventurous one, here’s our comprehensive guide to getting around Panama.

Buses Are the Way to Go

Panama boasts a budget-friendly and extensive bus network that links all major destinations on the mainland. Most intercity buses are 28-seat Toyota Coasters, featuring icy air-conditioning and lively salsa tunes.

Large bags are secured on the roof, and an assistant known as a pavo (which means 'turkey') collects fares and offers assistance. The long-distance buses between Panama City and David are the finest in Central America.

You’ll also encounter chivas – repurposed cattle or pickup trucks equipped with hard benches and tarpaulin covers to shield from the rain. These are typically found on the most remote rural routes.

Lastly, there are the diablo rojos (red devils) – old US school buses, often called 'chicken buses' – decked out with neon lights and flashy artwork. While chicken buses have largely disappeared from Panama City, they still run in a few areas, particularly along the central Caribbean Coast.

Most towns and cities feature a central terminal. In other areas, buses pick up and drop off passengers at roadside concrete shelters. To catch a bus, simply extend your thumb, and shout 'parada' (stop) when you wish to get off.

Guidelines for catching a bus from Panama City

In Panama City, intercity buses leave from the expansive La Gran Terminal Nacional de Transporte de Panamá in Albrook – a contemporary, well-designed terminal that includes a shopping mall and a Metro station.

Each bus route features its own designated ticket window. Check the terminal's website for details like the route operator’s name, contact number, and ticket office location. To access the departure gates through the turnstiles, you need to pay a US$0.10 fee using the '3-in-1' Rapi-Pass card (cash is not accepted).

You can obtain the card upon arrival at Tocumen Airport or at any Metro station – it’s also usable for Metrobuses and trains.

Advice for catching buses across Panama's borders

Ticabus is the primary international bus service provider, offering routes to San José in Costa Rica and beyond.

Traveling by bus from Panama City to San José takes about 16 to 18 hours; expect international buses to spend 1 to 2 hours completing customs and immigration procedures at the Paso Canoas border.

For those traveling light, switching between local buses is the fastest way to reach San José. Start with a local bus from the terminal in David to Paso Canoas/Frontera (or Puerto Armuelles); from there, long-distance Costa Rican buses will take you to San José.

Keep in mind that the coastal highway in Costa Rica saves 4 to 5 hours compared to the (breathtaking) mountain route via the old Panamerican Highway, so be mindful of your bus route choice.

Discover Panama's rainforest rivers aboard a piragua

In areas with limited roads, dug-out riverboats called piraguas (or cayucos) are commonly used. These boats are typically carved from the trunk of a giant ceiba tree and are prevalent in the jungle-covered waterways of mainland Bocas del Toro and Darién Province.

Traditionally, these boats are propelled with long poles, although outboard motors are becoming more common.

Renting an entire boat with a driver can be costly, with prices varying based on the distance, cargo weight, number of passengers, engine type, and fuel. Generally, expect to pay between USD$100 to USD$250 per day.

Exploring Panama by Pangas, Ferries, Yachts, and the Canal

Motorized canoes are commonly used to travel between the offshore islands of Comarca de Guna Yala. For most sea travel, a panga—a robust, open-hulled skiff that accommodates a dozen or more passengers and their luggage—is the go-to option.

The Bocas del Toro archipelago boasts a fleet of speedy pangas that dart between the islands and transport visitors to the mainland port of Almirante.

Additionally, there is a daily car ferry, but only Isla Colón features paved roads. Regular ferries link Panama City with Taboga Island and the Pearl Islands.

Yachts often sail to Colombia across the Caribbean Sea; many have room for passengers, but it’s essential to thoroughly check the captain and the vessel before booking a trip. Hostel noticeboards frequently post such opportunities.

You can experience both full and partial canal transits with Panama Marine Adventures.

Rent a car to explore at your own pace

Driving in Panama City is a logistical nightmare, but there are plenty of scenic road trips available throughout the rest of the country. While most major roads are paved, their maintenance can vary significantly.

Car rental companies are prevalent in both Panama City and David, with rates starting at around US$35 per day for a compact car. A 4WD vehicle is essential for venturing off the main roads, particularly during the wet season (April to December), when the risk of landslides and flooding increases.

Multi-lane highways link Panama City to Colón, allowing you to travel from the Pacific to the Caribbean Sea in approximately an hour if traffic permits.

In western Panama, a winding transisthmian highway connects Chiriquí Province to Bocas del Toro Province, offering breathtaking views as it traverses the continental divide.

The Panamerican Highway serves as the main roadway in the country, though it is only paved up to Yaviza in the east. The untamed forests of the Darién Gap are off-limits to travelers, and police will apprehend you if you try to enter Colombia.

You might want to consider skipping that pricey domestic flight.

Domestic flights tend to be relatively pricey and come with a significant carbon footprint. Given Panama's compact size, traveling by bus is often more practical, with only a few remote areas accessible by air. Air Panama provides services to various destinations across the country, including Darién, Guna Yala, the Pearl Islands, the Azuero Peninsula, Chiriquí, and Bocas del Toro. Flights take off from Albrook 'Marcos A Gelabert' International Airport, located km (2.2 miles) from the Albrook bus terminal. A taxi is recommended for the journey.

Transportation options for accessibility in Panama

In contrast to neighboring Costa Rica, Panama lacks agencies focused on excursions for individuals with disabilities. Outside of Panama City, the infrastructure for wheelchair access is minimal, and even within the capital, poor sidewalk conditions complicate mobility.

While many large hotels and resorts offer ramps and grab rails, and several attractions are accessible, long-distance buses generally provide limited space for wheelchairs.

Renting a vehicle might be the most convenient solution. For additional details on accessible travel, check out Dinogo Planet's Accessible Travel Resources.