New York, Step Aside – California Takes the Crown

CaliforniaCalifornia is now the leading force in American cuisine. That’s right, it’s no longer New York. While New York will always deliver spectacular hits and occasional gems—Queens being a hidden treasure trove of diverse cuisines—its influence is now waning. In Manhattan, it’s time to revisit local bistros. Many, including myself, find NYC’s culinary scene lacking in innovation.

This is now California’s era. The top culinary minds here are shaping the national dining scene, pushing forward the cuisines we crave. This dominance is a recent development. For decades, California has been a bastion of abundance, the Left Coast origin of the seasonal, local, farm-to-table movement now considered standard. Yet, it was New York’s culinary prowess and its aggressive media presence that popularized these trends nationwide.

Today, California stands as the epicenter of both rich traditions and bold culinary experimentation. It is the strongest force in the food world. I can attest to this from my experience as Dinogo’s national critic for over four years, traveling extensively across the country. Despite this, I’m drawn back to California, not only to enjoy its fresh and innovative cuisine but also to witness the extraordinary creativity emerging from its major cities.

What triggered this dramatic shift? What specific factors have propelled California’s chefs to such extraordinary heights right now? I recently undertook a month-long journey covering almost the entire state to find answers to these questions, which fueled my curiosity with every mile traveled and every meal enjoyed.

On the first evening of my trip, while nestled at a cozy cedar counter at Rintaro, a 4-year-old Japanese izakaya tucked away in a quieter part of San Francisco’s Mission District, I reflected on the culinary landscape. Amidst a meal filled with highlights—delicate tofu set atop soy milk infused with scallion and ginger, and smoky yakitori chicken skewers—the standout was chef-owner Sylvan Mishima Brackett’s chiizu tori katsu—a cheese-stuffed fried chicken breast cutlet—that stole the show.

This dish delivered an exciting crunch and burst of flavors, but it also hinted at a deeper culinary narrative: The intricately textured panko came from the famed Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, and the cheese was Wagon Wheel, a sharp, medium-firm aged variety made in a style akin to Asiago by Cowgirl Creamery, the Bay Area’s celebrated dairy.

This blend of textures embodies a uniquely Californian approach to cuisine: a confident balance between preserving culinary traditions and infusing them with fresh, innovative ideas. This blend of old and new fosters a collaborative spirit and a vibrant food culture, characterized by a willingness to challenge conventional boundaries and engage with creative, ambitious minds.

Across the state, I discovered numerous outstanding examples of this trend: Yemeni malawach paired with a spicy zhoug made from the renowned Harry’s Berries strawberries at the new Bavel in Los Angeles. California sturgeon caviar and crema-filled sopes at Gabriela Cámara’s Cala in San Francisco. And Nancy Silverton’s signature LA pizza, adorned with golden-green squash blossoms and topped with local burrata.

In true Californian fashion, Ludo Lefebvre’s Big Mec cheeseburger at Petit Trois, situated just across Melrose Avenue from Silverton’s Pizzeria Mozza, stands out. This burger, with its American excess, is elevated by foie gras, bordelaise sauce, and caramelized onions—elements of Lefebvre’s French culinary roots.

These culinary highlights aren’t chosen at random. Japanese, Mexican, French, Middle Eastern, and Italian cuisines are the current trends sweeping America, with many of these innovations originating in California. The state’s deep appreciation for Mexican, Japanese, and Middle Eastern flavors comes from its rich immigrant communities. These influences have melded with local tastes, gaining significant recognition across the nation. Additionally, California’s climate mirrors Italy’s Mediterranean coast, creating a lasting connection.

I’d contend that Lefebvre was pivotal in igniting the nation’s Francophile resurgence with Petit Trois, which debuted in 2014. This revival then surged to Manhattan and spread across the country. Two years later, Le Coucou in SoHo added to the glittering Gallic renaissance. Yet, it was Lefebvre who truly set the trend in motion.

California’s ascent isn’t just about fashionable cuisines and high-profile cultural collaborations. Traveling its highways, marveling at the Pacific, and exploring its mountains revealed a deeper connection. From savoring delicious pie in Sacramento to enjoying lamb’s head barbacoa in San Diego, and chasing a perfect BLT in Santa Barbara County to indulging in fried chicken in the high desert, I was repeatedly drawn back to Los Angeles and the San Francisco Bay Area.

The historic rivalry between Northern and Southern California is gradually diminishing as the two urban hubs increasingly share common traits. On yet another drive down Highway 101, I wondered if this convergence was the secret to California’s new dominance. The once-divisive gap between LA and SF is closing; both cities have gained global financial influence and no longer seek approval from the East Coast. Together, they form a culinary powerhouse that overshadows their stagnant counterparts across the Mississippi.

Currently, the synergy between the Bay Area and Los Angeles is perfect. The Bay Area’s tech boom has endowed it with such wealth that it stands as America’s fine dining capital. Apologies, Chicago: Despite your luxury offerings, your growing seasons, compared to California’s, fall short.

Economic prosperity fuels both confidence and daring. With tech executives and enthusiastic tourists, San Francisco and its surroundings have a market eager to support bold, creative cuisine and extravagant ingredients regardless of cost.

It’s been widely reported, including by me, that many of San Francisco’s creatives have migrated across the Bay Bridge to Oakland. This is meant as a genuine compliment to Oakland. Your dining scene’s remarkable transformation, with its incredible ethnic diversity and strong support for independent ventures, is starting to feel strikingly similar to Los Angeles.

LA is extraordinary. The sheer range and level of quality are overwhelming. I began a recent day with birria de chivo — roasted goat, the specialty at Birrieria Nochistlan — whose broth was as deep and intense as Rachmaninoff’s music. For lunch, I enjoyed tea-leaf salad, a chicken rendang variation with lemongrass and sweet spices, and Sichuan-style pork dumplings at Lukshon. Dinner at Shunji featured an omakase experience with seasonal fish, some on vinegared rice and some not, and dishes like corn custard with uni and truffles. LA offers an array of exceptional choices, establishing it as a premier destination for sushi and Japanese cuisine in the Western Hemisphere.

I could have spent weeks enjoying similar delightful meals. Los Angeles is like a gastronomic playground. While you can explore similar culinary adventures in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens, the East Coast’s ingredients simply don’t have the same vitality.

Together, Los Angeles and the Bay Area exemplify enlightened multiculturalism, casual confidence, exceptional quality from top-notch farming, innovative thinking (whether reflecting a specific Mexican village or a chef’s unique touch, both are valid!), luxury, and accessibility.

This may seem broad, but I now clearly identify these blended elements as distinctly Californian when I encounter them elsewhere: from Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s globally-inspired vegetarian spot in Manhattan to a bold soba bar in Seattle offering broccolini tempura with parmesan and miso-anchovy aioli, and even at Chicago’s latest sensation, Pacific Standard Time, where chef Erling Wu-Bower draws on his West Coast roots and his mother’s immigrant cooking. California’s essence breaks down traditional boundaries, encouraging chefs to discover their own unique identities in their cuisine.

As I sampled the state’s culinary offerings, I wondered: Is California’s dining culture so vibrant because of its robust economy? (With a domestic GDP ranking fifth globally, it generated $2.7 trillion between 2016 and 2017, surpassing the UK.) Are the legendary qualities that have made California a haven for artists and innovators echoing through its restaurant scene more than ever? Is the brilliance due to an increasingly sophisticated dining audience, or is it driven by the high cost of doing business in the state?

It’s a combination of all these factors and many more elusive dynamics. Perhaps it boils down to the undeniable allure of California. Yet here I am, writing from Brooklyn, missing the specific shade of the Pacific sky and craving both cheese-filled katsu and a perfectly ripe pluot.

Bill Addison is Dinogo’s national critic, traveling across the country to discover America’s must-visit restaurants. Explore all his articles in the archive. Edited by Lesley SuterCopy edited by Rachel P. Kreiter