North Korea’s latest peace offering: Kimchi

Some peace offerings are more flavorful than others – especially when they feature kimchi.

In one of the most delicious signs of improving relations on the Korean peninsula, North Korean spicy cabbage has made its first appearance at a major food festival in Seoul.

Over 100 varieties of kimchi from South Korea were showcased at the three-day charity event, but the unexpected highlight was the dish from across the border.

But how does it taste? While each family has its own kimchi recipe, Kim Hyun-a, one of the Seoul Kimchi Festival organizers, points out key differences from the southern version.

“Due to the cold climate in North Korea, fermenting food is a challenge,” Kim explained. “That’s why some North Korean kimchi recipes use sugar to aid the fermentation process.”

“Most North Korean kimchi doesn’t contain salted seafood, unlike its South Korean counterpart. It tends to be sweeter, lighter, and has a cleaner taste, with less chili powder,” Kim added.

The North Korean dish’s debut at the three-day charity festival, now in its fifth year, plays a crucial role in the ongoing reconciliation between the two Koreas, according to Kim.

“At this moment, showcasing North Korean kimchi to the people of Seoul is very significant,” he said.

Seoul’s Mayor Park Won-son agrees, noting that recent meetings between North and South Korean leaders have brought added importance to the culinary exchange.

“I recently visited Pyongyang for the presidential summit, and during that trip, I had the chance to taste North Korean kimchi. It’s a bit special for us, South Koreans,” he shared with Dinogo.

This isn’t the first time food has played a role in cross-border relations. When North Korean leader Kim Jong Un visited South Korea in April 2018, he humorously mentioned that he had brought North Korean cold noodles as a gift for the summit.

United by kimchi

Thousands gathered at the kimchi festival, where 100 different recipes were showcased, with participants in red aprons, hats, and pink gloves all contributing to the dish-making process.

In a further testament to kimchi’s global appeal, people from around 20 countries, including the United States, Russia, India, Spain, Mexico, Egypt, and Iran, joined in the celebration.

Kai Hess, a designer from California, stumbled upon the festival while walking by city hall with his girlfriend. Intrigued, they decided to join in.

"We’ve been traveling the world for the past year, exploring different cuisines. Korean food is definitely our favorite," said Hess.

Kim reports that on the first day of the festival, participants produced 40 tons of kimchi. The air at Seoul Plaza was filled with the distinct aroma of fish sauce, a key ingredient in the dish.

And even more acts of pickled cabbage generosity were yet to come.

Kim mentioned that by the end of the festival, as much as 165 tons of kimchi could be distributed to low-income families across 25 districts in Seoul.

"Koreans feel a sense of loss when there’s no kimchi on the table," said Im Soo-ah, a college student participating in the festival. "For those in need, it’s difficult to make kimchi, especially with cabbage prices so high, making it an expensive dish to prepare."

"By donating kimchi to these families, we can make a meaningful difference in their lives," she added.

Record-breaking cabbage

On the festival’s third day, November 4, around 3,500 employees from Mercedes-Benz Korea will try to set a new Guinness World Record for the most people making kimchi at the same time, according to Kim.

The current Guinness World Record stands at 2,635 participants, set by Korea Yakult Corporation in 2013.

Kimchi is a fundamental part of Korean cuisine. In 2017, South Koreans consumed approximately 1.94 million tons of kimchi, as reported by the World Institute of Kimchi.

The dish is typically made by salting cabbage and mixing it with red chili peppers, garlic, ginger, salted seafood, and fish sauce.

In late autumn, people come together to prepare large batches of kimchi to last through the winter, in a tradition known as kimjang, which is now recognized by UNESCO as an important cultural practice.

"Kimchi is a deeply rooted part of Korean culinary tradition. It’s essential for Koreans to make and share kimchi within their communities and villages," said Mayor Park.

"Koreans simply can’t live without kimchi. Whenever they travel abroad, they bring some along," shared 32-year-old participant Yoon Seung-jin.

"It’s the centerpiece of every Korean meal," said Hess. "Kimchi is inseparable from what it means to be Korean. It’s not just a dish, it’s a symbol of our culture."