Once banned, this traditional Japanese drink is making a comeback

Japanese-made whisky, nihonshu (sake), and beer enjoy global popularity.

However, one bar in Tokyo is working to bring doburoku, one of Japan’s oldest and most controversial drinks, back to both locals and tourists.

Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery is located in the Nihomi district of eastern Tokyo. During the Edo period (1603 - 1868), this area was bustling with activity, especially with boats delivering shipments of sake.

With this rich history in mind, Heiwa Shuzou (Brewery), which had been producing sake in Wakayama Prefecture since 1928, decided to open a unique doburoku-focused bar in one of Tokyo's most sophisticated neighborhoods.

Before stepping into the bar for a glass, here’s what you should know about this historic and controversial drink.

What is doburoku, exactly?

The history of doburoku is as cloudy as the drink itself.

Often regarded as the precursor to modern sake, it's no surprise that the characters for doburoku (濁酒) translate to 'cloudy' or 'unrefined' liquor. To differentiate this opaque Japanese drink from the clear and ubiquitous sake, two categories have emerged: seishu (清酒), or clear sake, and doburoku (濁酒).

Thus, sake and doburoku differ primarily in the methods used to produce them.

Traditional sake requires a yeast starter called shubo, to which three key ingredients – steamed rice, kouji (a moldy rice fungus), and water – are added over several days.

In contrast, when making doburoku, all the ingredients are added simultaneously with the yeast starter, resulting in a mixture rich in sugars. These sugars break down the yeast, halting fermentation earlier, which leaves a sweeter liquid with a significantly lower alcohol content – this is what we call doburoku.

Why has doburoku stirred controversy?

Doburoku has existed in Japan for as long as rice cultivation itself. It was the preferred drink for both farmers and Shinto priests. With a simple recipe – essentially combining all ingredients at once – doburoku was a common feature in rural areas.

The practice of homebrewing doburoku continued for centuries without interruption.

According to Utsunomiya Hitoshi, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS), in 1855 there were 459 doburoku producers in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) alone.

However, following the end of the Edo period (1603 - 1868), all feudal lords were required to relinquish their regional domains to establish the centralized Meiji government in the new capital, Tokyo. This shift in power brought about structured institutions, including an efficient and organized tax collection system.

Recognizing that licensed breweries and distilleries would be a key source of revenue for the new government, restrictions on homebrewing were gradually enforced.

Utsunomiya states that in 1880, restrictions on the quantity of homebrewed alcohol began, and by 1882, a licensing system was implemented. In 1896, a liquor tax was levied on all homemade alcohol, culminating in the total ban on homebrewed liquor by 1899.

From that point onward, all doburoku produced was classified as mitsuzoushu (密造酒), or 'illegally produced alcohol,' commonly known as moonshine.

Even with the prohibition in place, doburoku continued to be available in Japan. Notably, Shinto shrines were permitted to use the beverage for their rituals. After World War II, due to a shortage of sake, the Korean drink makgeolli – an unfiltered relative of doburoku made from rice, wheat, malt, and water – became a popular substitute.

Despite homebrewing remaining illegal, in 2003, the Japanese government authorized inns and restaurants in certain special deregulation zones (mainly in economically stagnated regions) to legally sell doburoku.

As of 2021, there are 193 licensed establishments across Japan where doburoku can be legally purchased.

The Current State of Doburoku

Tokyo’s Sake Hotaru, which opened in 2015, became the first legal venue in the capital to serve doburoku. However, it wasn’t until late 2016 that the bar began offering the drink to the public.

Since then, more doburoku bars have opened. The Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, for example, launched a bar near Nihomi in June 2022.

Norimasa Yamamoto, President of Heiwa Shuzo, shares that about half of the visitors to the bar are from abroad.

He notes that many patrons ask about the differences between sake and doburoku, the time required to make it, and the production process.

Along with doburoku, the brewery also offers its own sake and beer. However, it’s important to note that they do not accept cash for any purchases.

The flavor of doburoku is bold and complex, with some tasters likening it to both sharp cheddar cheese and noni, a distinctive Polynesian fruit.

For those unable to visit Japan, doburoku is also available in Brooklyn at Kato Sake Works, which offers small batches of the drink.

Owner Shinobu Kato mentions that “the context doesn’t exist here” in the U.S., as most Americans are unfamiliar with doburoku.

Kato explains, “Aside from a few sake shops that are particularly knowledgeable and interested in our doburoku, most sales are made at the taproom, where customers can buy bottles to go or enjoy it by the glass.”