Plantations Are Worth Exploring for Americans

At the age of 11, I experienced a school trip to Walnut Grove Plantation, one of South Carolina's oldest residences. The guides shared that Scotch-Irish immigrants Charles and Mary Moore were 'granted' the land by King George III in 1763, leading them to construct their manor in 1765.

During our visit, we learned about the home’s decor and the lifestyle of the white settlers. However, there was no mention of the 12 enslaved individuals who labored on the estate, which once covered 3,000 acres and was merely six miles from where I grew up.

Slavery is the foundation of my family’s existence in this nation. My ancestors were brought to coastal South Carolina in the 1730s as enslaved individuals, their work contributing to making the state one of the richest colonies in the world at one time. For nearly 300 years, my family has endured—and at times flourished—in this verdant yet challenging environment.

As a young Black girl raised in the 1990s in rural Southern America, I struggled to find my place within this landscape, within the pages of history, or in the narratives shared in school. When slavery was addressed, it was often treated as a mere footnote, a topic supposedly resolved with the Civil War.

The America we studied depicted a land of immense wealth, ambitious politicians, and leisurely days spent in mansions surrounded by meticulously manicured gardens and lush lawns. Rarely did we discuss the individuals who were instrumental in creating this vast wealth—the skilled laborers who were enslaved. The legacy of slavery was evident everywhere, yet it often remained unspoken.

In my quest to uncover my family’s narrative within the American story, I have delved into articles, books, diaries, census records, and journals of slaveholders. Since my initial visit to Walnut Grove, I have explored countless other former plantations across Georgia, Virginia, South Carolina, and North Carolina, seeking to comprehend the forced roles of Black individuals. The tours I've participated in vary widely; some elevate the voices of enslaved people to the forefront, while others recast the plantation’s original affluent owners—slave traders dealing in human lives—as mere merchants.

During a visit to Hampton Plantation State Historic Site in South Carolina, I inquired with a ranger about exploring the earthen structures—dams and dikes constructed by enslaved individuals to facilitate rice farming. She cautioned me about the aggressive mosquitoes. Armed with DEET, I ventured away from the Georgian house toward the creek. The sound of thousands of insects was unforgettable—the thip-thip-thip that filled the air. Clouds of mosquitoes swarmed around my hands and the small areas of exposed skin near my ankles. That encounter, which left me with bites that turned into lasting scars, shattered any lingering illusions I had about benevolent slaveholders and faithful enslaved individuals, a myth we are repeatedly fed. This perspective is an old Southern trick, a deceptive maneuver, a means of obscuring the truth. Historic entities often excel in this: they practice omission, exclusion, and sometimes outright erasure to present a more palatable tale. But what is the purpose of plantation tours, if not to illuminate the story of slavery? Of America?

“I believe that plantations should convey unfiltered history and confront difficult subjects head-on,” says Enfinitee Irving, an interpretive ranger at South Carolina State Parks. In her capacity, Irving conducts tours at Rose Hill Plantation State Historic Site, located near Union. Like myself, she descends from individuals who were once enslaved in South Carolina.

For travelers contemplating a visit to plantations, Irving recommends beginning with some research: Who currently owns the plantation, and what are their objectives in offering tours? How does this historic site animate the stories of those who were once enslaved?

“As soon as someone steps out of their car at Rose Hill, one of the first things they encounter while approaching the main house is a sign that reads MORE THAN A MANSION,” Irving explains. “We aim to help visitors grasp early on that this house was constructed by enslaved individuals. And if we are going to discuss this house, we must also address the skills and craftsmanship involved; these enslaved workers possessed the knowledge to build enduring brick structures that have stood the test of time.”

I regard plantations as sacred sites. I enter each property with the awareness that these stunning homes and meticulously maintained gardens are a testament to the suffering endured by oppressed individuals. I pay attention to the silences, asking questions about the unspoken aspects of their histories. I seek out information gaps, probing into where guides source their facts and whether the descendants of the enslaved individuals are included in the narratives shared about the location. The most impactful tours I’ve experienced bring humanity back to the dehumanized, offering visitors context to understand the stakes involved in maintaining the social order of that era. For instance, Rose Hill has recognized 116 individuals who were once enslaved there, and their names are honored during special events and programs.

I also hold onto the truth that two realities can coexist. Landscapes like Rose Hill serve as final resting places for many who perished under the horrors of chattel slavery. Yet, they are also fertile ground that gave rise to much of American culture. Indeed, it was in settings like plantations that new culinary traditions, music, and dance emerged. People fused Indigenous, European, and West African influences to create something entirely new and unprecedented.

Plantations are venues for discussing what we choose to preserve and what we allow to fade into obscurity. The lessons from our past shape our future, and plantations have vital stories to convey. “It requires immense effort to begin correcting so many injustices,” Irving notes. “But recognizing that these events occurred is crucial.”

Where to Learn More

Six locations across the South that are committed to sharing a more inclusive narrative.

Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters

Savannah, Georgia

This mansion, built in 1819, features some of the best-preserved urban slave quarters in the South, providing visitors insight into the lives of 14 enslaved individuals who toiled in a vibrant city. Guided tours of the site are offered every 15 minutes throughout the day.

Whitney Plantation

Edgard, Louisiana

Located just an hour's drive west of New Orleans, Whitney Plantation stands as Louisiana’s first museum entirely dedicated to the history of slavery. The tours and exhibits highlight the transatlantic slave trade and the practice of slavery in Louisiana from 1719 to 1865. Each visitor is given a card featuring the story of a different enslaved individual, derived from interviews with over 2,300 former slaves conducted by the Federal Writers’ Project in the 1930s and ‘40s.

Stagville State Historic Site

Durham, North Carolina

Through a combination of archaeology, oral histories, and archival research, Stagville emphasizes the narratives and experiences of enslaved individuals at one of North Carolina’s largest sites of mass slavery. From 1771 to 1865, the Bennehan-Cameron plantations covered 30,000 acres and enslaved around 900 people. Be sure to call ahead to check on the availability of guided tours before your visit.

McLeod Plantation Historic Site

Charleston, South Carolina

Located on a former Sea Island cotton plantation from the 1850s near Wappoo Creek, McLeod includes “Transition Row,” a series of six slave cabins that housed generations of African Americans from the late 1700s until the 1980s. Tours start every hour on the half-hour and cover topics such as Sea Island cotton farming, Gullah Geechee culture, and various forms of resistance against slavery and its aftermath.

Belle Meade Historic Site & Winery

Nashville, Tennessee

This expansive 250-acre site lies just seven miles from downtown Nashville and served as a plantation from 1807 to 1865. It explores the role of slavery within the thoroughbred horse-racing industry, utilizing primary documents and oral histories to illuminate the experiences and labor of those enslaved. Two distinct historical tours share the narratives of the men, women, and children who worked at Belle Meade.

Monticello

Charlottesville, Virginia

Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States and the main author of the Declaration of Independence, advocated for liberty and equality as fundamental human rights, yet was a slaveholder: over 400 enslaved people lived and worked on the expansive 5,000-acre Monticello plantation during his lifetime. A 45-minute tour, included with admission, highlights the contributions of Monticello's enslaved field hands, artisans, and domestic workers who significantly influenced the history of Charlottesville.