Raja Ampat, Indonesia: 'The Final Paradise on Earth'

Over three decades ago, Max Ammer, a Dutch history buff, was tipped off by his war-veteran landlord about World War II aircraft lying submerged in Indonesia’s waters.

This lead sparked a four-month-long diving expedition, where Max traveled through several archipelagos and consulted with local fishermen along the way.

Among all the places he explored, one location stood out: Raja Ampat in West Papua, Indonesia.

Situated in the heart of the Coral Triangle, the Raja Ampat Marine Protected Area covers over 4 million hectares and is made up of nearly 1,500 islands.

Raja Ampat is often hailed as 'the last paradise on Earth,' thanks to its unmatched marine biodiversity and its remote location, which has helped it avoid mass tourism. With over 1,600 fish species and 75% of the world's known coral species, it’s a true natural wonder.

"The area is filled with endless stunning landscapes and countless vibrant coral gardens," says Ammer.

His admiration for the region's beauty and its communities led him to establish the Kri Eco Dive Resort in 1994, aiming to train local divers and introduce visitors to this pristine underwater world. He later opened a second resort at Sorido Bay, with both resorts operating under his Papua Diving company.

Raja Ampat is one of the world’s most successful conservation stories.

Raja Ampat's journey to becoming a conservation success wasn’t always certain, proving that with the right strategies, meaningful change is achievable.

"Around two decades ago, Raja Ampat was facing a decline due to unchecked commercial fishing and unsustainable practices," says Meizani Irmadhiany, senior vice president and executive chair of Konservasi Indonesia, pointing to issues like shark finning and turtle poaching.

"Much needed to be done, and it required collaboration with various stakeholders to reverse the situation."

In 2004, Raja Ampat became part of West Papua’s Bird’s Head Seascape initiative, a project aimed at establishing a network of Marine Protected Areas with the support of global conservationists and local authorities. Its goal is to safeguard marine life while ensuring sustainable food sources and economic benefits for local communities.

"Since the initiative began, fish populations have surged; illegal fishing by outsiders has decreased by approximately 90%; coral reefs are recovering; and long-term food security and livelihoods for local communities have improved," says Irmadhiany.

Engaging local communities in the conservation process has been a crucial factor in its success.

The parks hire locals to monitor and protect the areas, ensuring the preservation of indigenous knowledge, cultural values, and traditional practices like 'Sasi,' the local custom of temporarily closing off areas to allow ecosystems to heal.

"The key is to start with the communities and make sure the solutions align with their needs. The goal is to support their self-driven efforts to safeguard their land, ensuring the solutions are sustainable and benefit both the people and the environment," says Irmadhiany.

Their hard work is yielding results. Earlier this year, the Raja Ampat Marine Parks Network, which encompasses 10 protected areas covering more than two million hectares, received the prestigious Blue Parks Award.

The annual award, organized by Marine Conservation International and supported by the United Nations, honors marine parks worldwide that meet the highest science-driven standards for conservation effectiveness.

From shark finning camp to eco-resort

Marit Miners, co-founder of the renowned Misool Eco Resort and the Misool Foundation, demonstrates the powerful impact of involving local communities to create a resort that is both environmentally and financially sustainable.

Her journey with Raja Ampat began as a love story. In 2005, while traveling in Bangkok, she met Andrew Miners, a fellow diving enthusiast who would later become her husband.

On their third date, he invited her to dive in Raja Ampat.

"My first trip to Raja Ampat in 2005 was transformative," Miners shares with Dinogo Travel. Originally from Sweden, she had studied anthropology before discovering her passion for scuba diving and yoga in Thailand.

"It was unlike anything I had ever experienced, both above and below the water."

While the reefs surrounding Batbitim Island, where Misool now stands, were breathtaking, Miners couldn’t shake the feeling that something was off about the former shark finning camp.

"I hadn’t seen a single live shark," says Miners.

The ecosystem was still recovering from years of destructive commercial fishing. This reality inspired the couple to establish the Misool Foundation and Misool Resort in 2005, the latter serving as a financial support system for their conservation efforts, shortly after their first visit.

They soon reached an agreement with local communities to designate the Misool Marine Reserve as a 'no-take zone,' where fishing and hunting are strictly prohibited across the 300,000-acre area. Since 2007, they have employed their own ranger patrol to safeguard the waters.

Sustainability is a core principle of the resort's operations.

For instance, solar panels minimize reliance on fossil fuels. Rainwater is harvested to produce drinking water. Onsite gardens provide organic produce. The foundation’s waste management initiatives include buying trash and ocean plastics, which are then sold to recyclers.

Meanwhile, marine life is once again thriving at a location that was once marked by 'dead, finned sharks left in the shallow waters,' and the area’s rich underwater biodiversity has become an enticing draw for divers.

"Since 2007, fish biomass at Misool has grown by an average of 250%, and shark populations have flourished. A healthy, thriving ecosystem not only offers tourists a remarkable experience but is also crucial for local communities who rely on the reefs for their livelihoods," says Miners.

She emphasizes that involving local communities is key to Raja Ampat's continued success, as maintaining a well-protected marine environment requires collaboration and sustained commitment.

"As ecosystems heal, their newfound abundance attracts those looking to exploit them. Over time, threats evolve and diversify... It’s unrealistic and dangerous to believe a problem is permanently solved."

This is why long-term commitment is necessary from the community, local governments, scientists, business owners, non-profits, schools, funders, and both local and international advocates, she notes.

"A comprehensive approach gives the best chance of success. It requires immense spirit and energy, which can be found here in Raja Ampat," says Miners.

Cape Kri and other must-visit spots in Raja Ampat

Ammer has witnessed positive developments at his two Papua Diving resorts.

Nearly two decades ago, Dr. Gerry Allen of Conservation International made a dive at Cape Kri, the house reef of Papua Diving, and recorded an astonishing 327 fish species in a single dive. Ten years later, the count reached 374 species within just 90 minutes.

"When we first started, destructive practices like bomb fishing, potassium cyanide fishing, shark hunting, and logging were widespread throughout Raja Ampat," says Ammer.

"All of that has gradually been eliminated. In our case, much of it was due to providing alternative livelihoods. By offering jobs in the resorts to turtle poachers, shark fishermen, and loggers, they no longer had to engage in harmful activities."

Papua Diving’s two resorts are located in areas that had already been disturbed, former coconut plantations, meaning no pristine forest was harmed during construction.

The resorts were largely built with locally sourced materials, while stainless steel was used to extend the lifespan of the wood. Traditional thatch palm leaves for the roofs are harvested by and purchased from local communities.

They have created more fuel-efficient catamarans, built by local artisans. The latest model currently under development will be fully electric and autonomous when it takes to the water.

Both of Papua Diving’s resorts are equipped with conservation and diving centers, and around 90% of their staff are from the local community.

When asked about his favorite dive spots in Raja Ampat, Ammer says the list is nearly endless.

"I’m still often amazed when I look around during a dive. I sometimes wonder if I’m dreaming it all," says Ammer, who has personally named many of the area's dive sites.

In addition to Papua Diving’s renowned house reef, Cape Kri, Sardines Reef is known for having so many fish that they can occasionally block out the sunlight.

Melissa’s Garden, named after Ammer’s daughter, features a breathtaking shallow coral reef plateau teeming with both hard and soft corals. Otdima, a site known for its hard coral reef plateau, is named after Otto Awom, a local Papuan whom Ammer trained to become one of their most skilled dive guides. There’s also much to explore above the water in Raja Ampat.

"The water is dotted with small, mushroom-shaped outcrops, draped in pitcher plants and wild orchids," says Miners of Misool.

"The coconut crab, the largest terrestrial arthropod, can be seen scurrying through the underbrush, while rare bird species like the sulfur-crested cockatoo, Blyth’s hornbill, and brahminy kite are often spotted. Dense mangroves serve as nurseries for juvenile fish and as secret hideaways for roosting flying foxes, or fruit bats."

"On land, hikes offer incredible views of the iconic karst islands and the vivid blue lagoons," adds Miners.

"Learn from us,"

Luis Kabes, a local dive guide at Papua Diving, suggests that to truly experience the essence of Raja Ampat, travelers should also "visit a local village and spend time at the local school."

"Tell us about your country and learn from us. Share a meal," says Kabes, who hails from Sawandarek Village on Batanta Island, one of Raja Ampat’s main islands.

Kabes takes great pride in Raja Ampat’s newfound global fame and is honored to serve as a dive guide in such a remarkable location.

After spending thirty years in Raja Ampat and exploring over 400 World War II aircraft sites there, Ammer believes the true highlight of the region is its people.

"Engage with the locals. Anywhere you go," Ammer says. "You might just fall in love with them and never want to leave."