Reaching Spain from Ireland by ferry takes days, but it offers a charm that a quick 2-hour flight simply can't match.

Our slow travel series delves into the beauty of more thoughtful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike—complete with advice on getting to your no-fly destination and enjoying the sights along the way. We invited Amy Lynch, editor at Dinogo Planet, to recount her ferry experience from Ireland to Bilbao, Spain.

With the salty breeze against my skin and the sound of crashing waves behind me, I find myself pondering why I don’t embrace this type of travel more often. Many of us, attracted to the idea of slow—meaning no-fly—travel, are thrilled by the growing number of ferry routes across Western Europe. Given the frequent airline delays, soaring fuel prices, and the persistent reminder of climate issues, traveling has become increasingly complicated.

Living in Ireland, where we lack a land route to Europe, my options for eco-friendly travel are somewhat limited. Yet, it's not impossible. Numerous ferry companies operate daily routes to Britain, France, and Spain, with the journey to Spain taking several days.

But that's precisely what makes it so enchanting.

Traveling by ferry is not only kinder to the environment, but it also offers a peaceful experience that feels almost like a breath of fresh air. The boat moves at a gentle, steady pace, allowing you to stroll the decks at your leisure or relax in a cozy armchair as the gray-blue sea and sky glide by your window. You can savor meals at various restaurants or simply enjoy the sea breeze on an outdoor deck. While the journey takes a full 32 hours—30 hours longer than a flight—if you have the time, it’s a modest trade-off.

Departure: dining on board before a midnight departure

I traveled on a newly launched route from Brittany Ferries that connects Rosslare (County Wexford), in southeastern Ireland, to Bilbao in northern Spain, aboard the Salamanca, the first LNG-powered ferry to link Ireland with mainland Europe. I began my journey with a train ride from Dublin’s Connolly station to Rosslare Europort, which took a full three hours. I wanted to make sure each part of my trip was as eco-friendly as the ferry crossing—starting off on the right foot.

A clearly marked five-minute walk took me from the train station to the terminal. However, I realized that more coordinated planning is needed if authorities aim to promote eco-friendly travel options: the last train to Rosslare arrived at 8:42 PM, resulting in over three hours of waiting before the midnight ferry departure.

There’s no direct access for pedestrians to the ship; we few passengers without cars were transported to the hold by a minibus and then directed to the decks via an elevator. Thankfully, there was none of the usual stress associated with airport security checks; my shoes and belt remained on.

I stayed in a two-berth Commodore Club cabin located on the outer edge of deck 9, which meant—yes!—a porthole view. It was tidy and comfortable, and considering the journey spanned two nights and a day, it was certainly the best choice. The cabin was easy to locate and fairly spacious (think of a budget hotel room), featuring an en-suite bathroom, video on demand, and tea and coffee-making facilities. Passengers can also book reclining seats for the trip. I had ample time to explore the decks, enjoy a meal, and sip a glass of wine before we set sail 90 minutes after midnight. This turned out to be a wise decision: if you’re prone to seasickness, use this time to eat and drink. Once the engines roar to life and you head out into open waters, the ferry begins to sway, which takes a bit of getting used to.

The experience: a cabin with a stunning view and a variety of dining options

At the end of March, the journey was peaceful—almost tranquil—thanks to the spacious ship and a low number of passengers. The lounges are softly illuminated, adorned with vibrant design elements. Numerous screens offer information and entertainment. With my cabin, I received a little green bracelet that provided access to the C-Club Lounge, located at the front of the ship (the bow, as I learned) which boasts a gorgeous view of the sea ahead, along with a buffet that changes throughout the day (featuring curries, salads, soups, sandwiches, meats, cheeses, desserts, and fruits). There were both hot and cold drinks available, including alcoholic options. Even red wine on tap—a customer favorite—was offered.

I had the option of several other dining venues on the ship, including the Spanish Taberna de Tapas, which perfectly complements the theme of the route. There's also the larger Restaurant Azul and the Plaza Mayor bar and café, named after the famous square in the historic city of Salamanca. These areas foster a friendly atmosphere, where passengers engage in conversation over a beer at the bar or share tapas in the restaurant. Onboard, you can enjoy duty-free shopping, an interactive information hub for pre-arrival research, and an outdoor sundeck with seating and exercise machines. Families will appreciate the three distinct children's play areas available. These amenities become particularly valuable when you discover the cost of onboard Wi-Fi. The first 90 minutes are complimentary; afterward, prices start at €0 for one hour and go up to €20 for six hours. Thus, it's wise to limit your online time during the journey. Nevertheless, the lack of internet access encourages relaxation—grab a book and savor a break from screens.

Highlights: a tour of the bridge and Spain-themed artworks

One of my favorite aspects of the journey was the Salamanca-themed art scattered throughout the passenger decks. The ferry features over 200 unique artworks inspired by the UNESCO World Heritage site of Salamanca and the Castilla y León region. A standout piece for me was the “Menina” statue by Spanish artist Felipao, created in a 3D polyhedral style, which welcomes you in the C-Club Lounge (the largest of several Meninas on display). Another highlight was a striking street art mural by Rubén Sánchez located on deck 10 (an outdoor sundeck for passengers), which I discovered during a nighttime stargazing session.

The arrival: heading to the heart of Bilbao

The ferry docked in Bilbao right on schedule at 8 AM on Sunday. My fellow foot passengers and I had to wait for the cars and caravans to unload before a staff member transported us to the terminal. It’s wise to have a plan for your onward journey at this point, whether that means arranging a taxi to the city center (about a 20-minute ride) or taking a 5 km walk or drive to the Santurtzi train station, which also connects to Bilbao. It would be beneficial to see improved public transport links and ferry-terminal facilities on both ends to encourage non-drivers to utilize the ferry. Currently, ferry ports and terminals have not been designed with foot passengers in mind as a priority.

Pricing details

For foot passengers without a vehicle, the one-way fare is approximately €235. The price increases considerably if you opt for a cabin—€214 for a four-berth cabin with a window and €186 for one without. However, you can reduce expenses by simply reserving a seat for sleeping for an additional €15.

If I had the chance to do it all over again…

For my next ferry journey, I will definitely pack some seasickness tablets. Choppy weather can lead to a rolling and swaying deck, and I found myself feeling queasy for part of the trip. (Travelers during the summer months might not face this issue as much.)

Spacious, tranquil, and accompanied by the calming sound of the sea, this ferry experience is, in my opinion, far superior to flying.

Amy traveled to Spain with the assistance of Brittany Ferries. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.