Reasons to Visit Haida Gwaii, the Canadian Archipelago

I just got back from a five-day trip to Haida Gwaii, a stunning archipelago in northwest British Columbia with a population of under 5,000. I absolutely loved it! Here are my top three reasons you might want to consider visiting.

1. To support and appreciate the Haida people and their nation

Haida Gwaii translates to "Islands of the Haida people," who have inhabited these lands for over 13,000 years. The first contact with Europeans, referred to by the Haida as “yáats’ xaadee” or “iron people” due to their trade for iron, likely occurred in the late 1700s. Unfortunately, smallpox nearly wiped out the Haida population, reducing it from over 20,000 to just over 800 by 1881. Additionally, Canadian government policies, including the potlatch ban of 1895 and the residential school system, severely threatened Haida culture.

From 1787 until 2009, the islands were called the Queen Charlotte Islands. However, the Haida have been actively working with the Canadian and British Columbia governments to reclaim authority over their ancestral lands. In 2009, British Columbia consented to rename the islands to Haida Gwaii. They also established a shared decision-making framework regarding land and natural resources as part of the ongoing Kunst’aa guu Kunst’aayah Reconciliation Protocol. Upon the renaming, the Haida placed the name “Queen Charlotte Islands” in a bentwood box, which was presented with respect to the Premier of British Columbia. This box remained in the parliament buildings in Victoria until 2016, when it was respectfully handed over to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, who took it back to Kensington Palace in London, the “fancy palace” from which it originally came.

The significance of names is one of the reasons I traveled to Haida Gwaii. Last February, I attended a series of TED Talks in New York, organized in partnership with Destination Canada. One standout talk was by Cohen Bradley, a Haida cultural ambassador, who discussed the vital role of names and storytelling in Haida culture. Cohen received his new Haida name, Taaydal (“Coming in Big”), in 2022 at the age of 26 to symbolize both his growth and potential. He emphasized the Haida's dedication to preserving their culture and its profound importance to their identity. His sincerity moved me, and I felt compelled to delve deeper into their culture and stories. I resolved to visit and learn more.

My trip in August this year was enlightening and fulfilling. While there's still much to discover, I gained a deep appreciation for the culture that the Haida people have nurtured in this region and the efforts they've made to safeguard it against colonial influences. I learned how names in Haida culture carry both challenge and responsibility, how oral storytelling transcends individual talent to become a communal duty, and how the potlatch tradition fosters personal achievements within a framework of wealth redistribution and collective welfare. It's all incredibly captivating, and I highly encourage anyone interested to visit and immerse themselves in this culture.

The best way to experience Haida Gwaii is to spend several days with one or more Haida guides, allowing for a chance to see, listen, and engage with the culture. I was fortunate that Cohen, whom I first met at that TED Talk, could accompany me for much of my stay. He has emceed potlatches, performs traditional Haida songs, shares insights into the Haida language, is well-versed in Haida history and culture, and has connections throughout the islands. However, excellent Haida guides are available for all visitors through Haida Tourism, managed by the Council of the Haida Nation. Haida Tourism offers various three-, four-, and seven-day itineraries that include Haida guides, transportation, and meals. Kathy James, the director of guest experiences for Haida Tourism, oversees the organization’s accommodation, Haida House, and all itineraries. She can assist in creating a custom itinerary tailored to your schedule and preferences and can be contacted at info@haidatourism.ca.

Another option is to arrange your trip through the luxury tour operator, Entrée Canada. The owner, Marc Telio, has collaborated with Haida Tourism to curate an authentic Haida experience, complete with attentive guidance and support. Entrée offers a five-day itinerary in Haida Gwaii, along with accommodations and transfers in Vancouver. I highly recommend checking out the videos on their website. Marc has worked with Destination Canada to create 16 unique itineraries that showcase various aspects of Canada across its provinces and territories, with 12 of these highlighting indigenous themes, known as Stories of Canada. The videos are definitely worth a watch. Dinogo plans to delve deeper into these remarkable Entrée Canada journeys in the future, including details on four new itineraries that have yet to be revealed. Stay tuned, and feel free to reach out to Entrée Canada at explore@entreedestinations.com or through your travel advisor.

2. To admire Haida art

The Haida are globally celebrated for their artistry. When trading with neighboring tribes, their primary asset was their exceptional craftsmanship. They would import what they needed and enhance it through techniques such as carving, engraving, weaving, and design, evident in their shields, bowls, baskets, wooden boxes, canoes, and—most notably—poles. Often referred to as totem poles, these include frontal poles, memorial poles, and potlatch poles. Unfortunately, many Haida poles and artifacts were taken during the 1800s and early 1900s and can now be found in museums worldwide, such as the British Museum in London and the Museum of Natural History in New York City.

You can find contemporary Haida poles throughout the communities on Graham Island (Kiis Gwaay), which is home to more than 85 percent of the local population. A highlight of my visit was exploring several carving sheds in the area where talented artists were actively creating their works.

Christian White, known by his Haida name Kihlyaahda, is a prominent contemporary artist. He welcomed a group from Haida Tourism outside his longhouse adorned with a majestic frontal pole in Old Masset. Inside his carving shed, he showcased his latest project—a large dugout canoe he plans to launch into the ocean within the year. While working on the canoe, he and his team were inspired by a retired canoe crafted by his father, which Christian had paddled to Alaska as a young man.

Jaalen Edenshaw is renowned for several poles displayed throughout the islands. During my visit to his carving shed just outside New Masset, he was collaborating with his brother Gwaai, who is also famous for his jewelry designs. They were working on a pole, but had just discovered that it wouldn’t be erected this fall as initially planned, but rather the following fall. They took the news in stride, feeling relieved to have more time to tackle a variety of other projects that had been waiting.

Jaalen shared that he and his brother have traveled to museums worldwide, including the Museum of Natural History in New York, to investigate and trace the origins of indigenous art, much of which was taken from their communities. In some instances, they have successfully retrieved pieces to bring back to Haida Gwaii, while in others, they have crafted replicas to share with their people.

I wouldn't recommend that travelers visit carving sheds on their own, as these are private workspaces for the artists. However, if accompanied by a Haida guide, who can assess the appropriateness of the visit, exploring these sheds can be a highlight of your time in Haida Gwaii, whether you meet renowned artists or those less well-known. Each experience offers unique advantages.

I had a wonderful experience visiting Billy Yavonovich Jr. in his shed in Skidegate. He was working on both a mask and a pole intended for a collaborative installation at a new health center in Skidegate. Billy kindly accepted a commission from me to carve and paint a paddle, which he will ship to me, and I am certain it will be a cherished keepsake.

3. To Experience the Splendor of Haida Gwaii

While the towns boast remarkable art, they are not particularly visually appealing. Prior to reconciliation, the development by white settlers was primarily focused on extracting resources like timber, minerals, and seafood, leading to a practical rather than aesthetic approach to construction.

Additionally, in Haida culture, while individuals may amass wealth, they do not hold onto it. Through potlatches, they generously share their resources with the community, gaining recognition for their accomplishments. The respect earned from the community holds far greater value than material possessions to the Haida.

However, the islands themselves are stunning, filled with cedar trees, towering mountains, inlets, and miles of pristine coastline. There's so much to explore, and the best way to do so is by boat. I encountered several travelers who kayaked through the islands on multi-day excursions, camping in the wilderness with Green Coast.

I enjoyed a day trip aboard a comfortable motorized boat (with a restroom) provided by Haida Style Expeditions, run by identical twin brothers Shawn and James Cowpar, both of whom are Haida. We visited K’uuna Llnagaay, also known as Skedans, the location of a former Haida village. Our guide, James Williams, led us through the village and shared insights into Haida life. Numerous poles in Skedans are gradually deteriorating. The Haida believe in letting these works return to nature. "Who are we to alter what our ancestors initiated?" James remarked. Instead, the cedar carvings decompose and nourish new growth.

We concluded our visit to Skedans with a lovely lunch on the shore. Cohen accompanied us on our maritime adventure, concluding our outing by performing traditional Haida songs with drumming. Shawn and James joined in softly where they could, while the rest of us were unfamiliar with the meanings of the Haida lyrics. Nevertheless, Cohen's profound emotional connection to the songs in that breathtaking setting deeply moved all of us fortunate enough to be there.

A much longer trip that I hope to undertake on my next visit takes adventurers to SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, often referred to as Ninstints, situated at the southern tip of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. This journey requires at least eight hours round trip by boat, making it a more demanding expedition than Skedans. Ninstints, a former Haida village that was last active in the 19th century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, features ancient memorial poles that have become iconic, frequently appearing in photographs that promote the islands and the Haida culture.

There are also several trails to explore on the northern island, with Tow Hill being perhaps the most popular. Located near the stunning North Beach, this trail consists of a 1.4-mile boardwalk that winds through a coastal cedar forest to the summit of Tow Hill, which has an elevation gain of 334 feet. At the top, you can enjoy views of North Beach and, in the distance, the Alaskan Panhandle. Locals joke that if you look hard enough, you might spot Sarah Palin, but I wasn’t so lucky.

Reasons Not to Visit Haida Gwaii

I see Haida Gwaii as a remarkable destination for those eager to learn about the Haida people and their culture or to appreciate the area's natural splendor. However, it's not the best choice for those seeking a straightforward, laid-back getaway. The distance and lack of certain comforts make it less than ideal. Moreover, Haida Tourism encourages visitors to take the Haida Pledge to respect the Air, Ocean, Land, and People. If this concept doesn’t resonate with you, it may not be the right vacation spot.

Getting to Haida Gwaii

During the summer, two small flights depart daily from Vancouver: one via Air Canada Express and another through Pacific Coastal Airlines. Air Canada lands in Sandspit, which typically has more reliable weather. However, keep in mind that Sandspit is located on Moresby Island (the southern island), so you will need to take a BC Ferry to reach Graham Island, where most of the development is concentrated.

You can rent cars through Budget, which has two locations: one at Sandspit and another in Daajing Giids (previously known as Queen Charlotte City), as well as Massett Car Rental in Masset, where Pacific Coastal flights arrive. However, securing a rental car can be quite challenging; it’s advisable to book well in advance for the summer months. I recommend coordinating with Haida Tourism or your travel agent for your rental car needs.

Additionally, there is a daily BC Ferries service that operates for seven hours from Prince Rupert on the northwest coast of British Columbia.

Accommodation Options

I highly recommend staying at Haida House, run by Haida Tourism, located near Tlell roughly in the middle of Graham Island's east coast. This property features a lodge that once functioned as a bear hunting camp. Since bears hold sacred significance for the Haida people, the nation successfully acquired the property, closed down the hunting operations, and transformed it into a space for visitors eager to learn about and support the community. During COVID, the Haida nation imposed strict travel restrictions on the islands—understandably, given that smallpox nearly devastated their population. During this time, Haida Tourism constructed 12 two-bedroom cabins to complement the lodge's 10 bedrooms. Each cabin includes a living room, a bathroom, inside and outside showers, a hospitality bar (with a small fridge), and a spacious outdoor deck with a hot tub. While all cabins are located by the ocean, trees and a high berm obscure the view.

In addition to Haida House, Haida Tourism is set to reopen Ocean House, a boutique hotel with 24 rooms on the north coast near Old Massett, in spring 2024. This hotel previously operated at another location. Dinogo aims to provide more details soon.

Further Reading

For additional inspiration and insights, our deputy editor, Tim Chester, visited last fall and authored this fantastic piece that I highly recommend. Six years ago, Marcello DiCintio wrote this beautiful story for the magazine. This earlier feature also showcases stunning photography by Jim McAuley, who shared many more images from that shoot on his personal website.