S3, E11: This Midwestern City Is One of the Nation’s Best-Kept Culinary Secrets

On this week’s episode of Unpacked, we chat with chefs, food writers, and locals from Madison to explore the city’s vibrant food scene.

Transcript

Shilpa Sankaran, founder of Kosa spa: What’s fascinating for me is that, while growing up, I may have taken it for granted, but Madison has transformed significantly over the past 20 years. It has truly evolved into a world-class city. The elements I thought I might miss from San Francisco, like arts, culture, and food, are incredibly abundant here.

Aislyn Greene, host: I’m Aislyn Greene, and welcome to Unpacked, the podcast that delves into one challenging travel topic each week. This week, we’re resuming our “Unpacking” series, where we visit various cities around the globe to uncover their unique characteristics. Today, we’re off to Madison, Wisconsin, to discover why it’s regarded as a world-class city, particularly in the culinary realm. If you’re a fan of Top Chef, you might know that the latest season is set in Wisconsin, featuring several chefs and local hotspots from Madison.

The voice you heard at the beginning of the episode belongs to Shilpa Sankaran, the founder of Kosa, Madison’s only Ayurvedic spa. We’ll revisit her and the impressive work she’s accomplished, but first, let’s meet someone who dedicates her life to studying, writing about, and discovering Madison’s culinary landscape.

Lindsay Christians, food editor: I’m Lindsay Christians, the food editor and an arts writer for the Capital Times in Madison, Wisconsin.

Aislyn: Lindsay moved to Madison in 2006 for graduate school, originally pursuing a degree in theater, and she ended up staying.

Lindsay: Many people move to Madison for graduate studies and end up making it their home. It’s one of those places where that happens quite frequently.

Aislyn: I felt that same attraction when I first visited Madison last June. There’s something about the blend of stunning outdoor scenery and an unexpectedly vibrant food scene. Yes, Lindsay mentions that many are taken aback by it.

Lindsay: We’ve certainly been known as flyover country for a long time, and everyone seems to recognize that, right?

Aislyn: But it’s not just about cheese curds and fried foods here. Not at all. Madison is a college town thanks to the University of Wisconsin–Madison, but as Lindsay points out, it offers so much more than that.

Lindsay: The connection between rural and urban areas here is quite robust. We’re surrounded by farms. It’s important to remember that we’re part of the upper Midwest and its foodways, while also acknowledging the influence of the university, which attracts people from all over the nation and the globe.

This blend has shaped our food culture. You’ll find plenty of taverns and supper clubs, similar to the rest of the state. We definitely have that aspect, but we also boast some really outstanding global cuisine that you might not typically expect in a city of this size.

Aislyn: Madison's metro area has a population of about 675,000. In contrast, a city like Chicago has nearly 3 million residents. However, Madison is growing rapidly—so quickly, in fact, that there’s a housing shortage. But that’s a conversation for another time.

It’s easy to see why so many people want to relocate here. Madison is a stunning city. Long before it was developed, this land was home to the Ho-Chunk nation, who continue to have a significant presence in the area. Known for being one of only two major U.S. cities situated on an isthmus, the Capitol building stands at the heart, separating Lake Mendota from Lake Monona. In total, Madison boasts five lakes, making them the ideal summer hangouts.

Madison is a premier cycling city, featuring over 60 miles of bike paths within the city limits. It’s refreshingly progressive, rich in history, and boasts chefs at the forefront of the culinary scene, such as Sean Farr.

Sean Pharr, chef: New York, the Bay Area, and Chicago have long been at the helm of culinary innovation. I believe we are the new generation pushing for change in cuisine right now.

Aislyn: Sean is the owner of Mint Mark, one of Madison’s most beloved restaurants. He also runs a tavern called Muskellounge and Sporting Club and a more casual eatery named Hank’s. At Mint Mark, he focuses on using fresh, local ingredients, which truly take center stage in Madison’s culinary landscape.

Sean: The food culture in Madison has a unique atmosphere, largely thanks to the abundance of nearby farms. Chefs who embrace seasonal cooking are presented with an exceptional variety of ingredients, and it’s our responsibility to honor them—because the quality here is just outstanding.

Aislyn: Let’s take a moment to discuss those ingredients. What does Wisconsin have in abundance? Farms. While you might be aware of Wisconsin’s dairy obsession, it boasts the highest number of dairy farms in the nation—nearly 6,400—and over 1,200 licensed cheesemakers. In short, agriculture is a significant industry here, with almost 60,000 farms, the majority of which are family-owned.

The Dane County Farmers’ Market in Madison stands out as one of the city’s most renowned spots. It’s the largest producer-only farmers’ market in the country, meaning only those who grow the products are allowed to sell them. These producers foster incredible connections with chefs, and during my visit, the market was bustling with chefs, locals, and visitors all competing for the best of Wisconsin’s meat, cheese, or the famous Door County cherries.

Lindsay: The farmers’ market has been around for over 50 years now. Last year marked the release of the 50th anniversary edition of the Dane County Farmers’ Market Cookbook. This is quite remarkable, especially considering that what was happening in Madison during the 1970s and 1980s paralleled the emergence of Alice Waters and Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Our locavore movement and farm-to-table initiatives began around the same time, which is something that often goes unrecognized.

Aislyn: Odessa Piper was a trailblazer in the locavore movement. She opened one of Madison’s iconic restaurants, L’Etoile, in 1976, which many have likened to the Midwest’s version of Chez Panisse.

Odessa established her restaurant with a groundbreaking vision: to source exclusively from local growers. Located just steps from the farmers’ market, she dedicated years to nurturing relationships with local producers. In 2005, she transferred ownership to her chef de cuisine, Tory Miller. Although Odessa played a significant role in shaping Madison’s culinary landscape, Lindsay notes that the food scene has since evolved and developed its own unique identity.

Lindsay: The current food scene in Madison is one that Odessa helped nurture, but with all due respect, it’s not solely her creation. She was an early pioneer among many others. Many chefs she collaborated with possessed more advanced techniques and training, allowing them to advance that initial vision even further.

Aislyn: Tory Miller is one of those notable chefs. He continues to lead L’Etoile but has also opened a more casual spot called Graze, situated right across from the farmers’ market. At Graze, he blends his Wisconsin roots with his Korean heritage. He has also further developed L’Etoile into a premier fine-dining destination while carrying on the locavore tradition initiated by Odessa, now mentoring the next generation of chefs.

Lindsay: We’re now witnessing chefs who trained under Tory starting their own restaurants, thereby continuing this legacy of close ties with local farms and the growers in the area.

Aislyn: Nowadays, if you toss a carrot in Madison, you’ll discover an array of fantastic restaurants that, like L’Etoile, honor local produce. One such place is Sean’s Mint Mark, known for its small plates and a menu that changes up to seven times a week. However, there are two dishes he insists his patrons won’t allow him to remove from the menu.

Sean: One of those dishes is roasted cauliflower tossed in bagna cauda, accompanied by white wine-soaked golden raisins and topped with frico, which is crispy Parmesan cheese. The dish is bursting with acidity and umami from the anchovies and garlic. Initially, I considered it a throwaway item while experimenting with a more complex cauliflower dish. Just before opening, I decided to fry some cauliflower and mix it with bagna cauda and lemon juice, and I realized, ‘This is the direction I want to go.’

Aislyn: And then there's an amazing biscuit on the menu.

Sean: I knew I had to feature these biscuits because they’re absolutely incredible. I thought, ‘They’d probably pair well with garlic honey, and I know cultured butter is delicious.’ So I added them to the menu without tasting them first. About three months later, I finally tried them and thought, ‘This is what everyone’s been raving about!’

Aislyn: Sean believes the food scene here has always been impressive.

Sean: One of the highlights was the range of ethnic cuisines available, particularly in the classic State Street area, like at Himal Chuli. You could just throw a dart, and you'd often land at a great spot.

Aislyn: However, he mentions that things have evolved over the past decade.

Sean: I’d say there’s been a significant transformation in Madison’s food culture and dining scene. At one point, the number of restaurants here per capita was unmatched.

Aislyn: Much of this change has been driven by chefs who have either relocated here or those who were originally from here and returned. Take Itaru Nagano from Fairchild, for instance. He was formerly the chef de cuisine at L’Etoile, and in 2023, he and his fellow chef, Andrew Kroeger, won the title of best chef in the Midwest at the prestigious James Beard Awards, often referred to as the Oscars of the culinary world.

Itaru: I grew up here, left for a while, and have been back for over 11 years now.

Aislyn: Itaru loved living in New York but yearned for a more relaxed lifestyle without compromising his culinary goals.

Itaru: Our focus on farmers’ markets is incredibly strong. Even more than in New York, where I worked with Tom Colicchio at Craft. He emphasized using farmers’ market ingredients too, but here, the turnaround is quicker, and the produce is exceptional and sourced solely from Wisconsin. In contrast, Union Square Market sources from various states like Pennsylvania, Delaware, New Jersey, and upstate New York, making it more spread out. Meanwhile, the Dane County Farmers’ Market is strictly from Wisconsin.

Aislyn: Fairchild is a beautiful little spot featuring a bronze pressed-tin ceiling and deep blue walls. The menu changes weekly and seasonally, as expected, offering house-made pastas and delightful, jewel-like dishes. For instance, grilled pork with mezcal jus and salmon paired with local turnips—

Itaru: Right now, we have a pan-fried sweetbread dish, along with a puree made from Door County cherries and shiso, complemented by pickled sunchokes and various cherry preparations. One is a simple cherry and shiso puree, while another uses leftover liquid from the freezer, sweetened a bit with verjus and transformed into a gel.

Aislyn: Itaru also incorporates foraged ingredients into his dishes.

Itaru: I frequently forage in the spring, summer, and fall, making it easy to venture out to the countryside to find ramps, watercress, and mushrooms, which I really enjoy.

Aislyn: Many of these foraged items often make it onto the menu.

Itaru: I definitely put ramps on the menu. I also use watercress and, if I have enough, chanterelles. Oyster mushrooms and maitake, or hen-of-the-woods, make appearances too—it all depends on what I can find.

Aislyn: One recurring theme I’ve heard from chefs and others in the food community is the strong support network in Madison.

Itaru: I believe we’re improving as a city. We really support one another and strive to uplift each other, with a shared goal of developing Madison’s food scene.

Aislyn: Wisconsin's cultural diversity has profoundly influenced Madison's culinary landscape. In the 19th century, the state experienced significant waves of immigration, attracting people eager to benefit from the plentiful land, job opportunities, and a relatively open political climate. Initially, the settlers were mainly German, Irish, Norwegian, Greek, and Italian, with many Italians settling in Milwaukee and Kenosha, where chef Dan Bonnano grew up in his father's Italian deli.

His restaurant, Pig in a Fur Coat, adds a touch of Italian flair to Madison, although he is quick to clarify that it’s not strictly an Italian restaurant.

Dan Bonnano, chef: I prefer not to confine myself to one style. My cuisine highlights Wisconsin's local meats and vegetables, but I infuse it with my own heritage. Given my Italian background—both my parents were born in Italy—many of my dishes have an Italian influence.

Aislyn: Upon entering Pig in a Fur Coat, one of the first sights that greets you is a whimsical white ceramic pig draped in a fur stole, reminiscent of something Joan Crawford might appreciate. The food is a delightful mix of the unexpected and the comforting—think bomboloni (those delightful Italian doughnuts) adorned with foie gras, or gnocchi paired with short ribs and cashews.

Dan has also opened a deli, just like his father did, called Alimentari, located just around the corner. So you can enjoy dinner at Pig in a Fur Coat and then indulge in a meatball sub at Alimentari the following day. He values the culinary diversity of the city.

Dan: We’re fortunate to have many talented chefs here, each drawing inspiration from the local ingredients and coming from varied backgrounds. This leads to a rich tapestry of cuisines and dining experiences, which I truly appreciate.

Aislyn: Madison is also home to a significant Laotian community, contributing to the array of fantastic Laotian restaurants, including a newer establishment that has been generating quite a bit of buzz.

Jamie Brown-Soukaseume, chef: I'm Jamie Brown-Soukaseume, the chef and co-owner of Ahan in Madison. We offer a contemporary twist on traditional Laotian cuisine.

Aislyn: Jamie grew up just half an hour north of Madison, immersed in the aromas and sounds of her mother’s cooking.

Jamie: Every morning, I'd wake up to the sounds of her in the kitchen, whether she was preparing a meal or breaking down a chicken.

Aislyn: Her mother came to the U.S. from Luang Prabang in Laos. When Jamie launched Ahan four years ago, she aimed to honor her family's culinary heritage.

Jamie: I focus on maintaining authentic flavors, drawing from recipes I learned from my mom or that were inspired by other Laotian dishes and family gatherings. I like to put my own modern twist on plating while keeping some traditional recipes that have been passed down through generations in my family.

Aislyn: One standout dish is her khao soi Luang Prabang, which I ordered on a gloomy, rainy day. It was aromatic and comforting, packed with chili, ground pork, rice noodles, and a medley of vibrant herbs. This dish is also a personal favorite of Jamie's.

Jamie: It’s incredibly comforting, yet it boasts bold flavors from ingredients like fermented soybeans, pork, tomatoes, and fish sauce. I find it to be satisfying no matter the time of day or the weather—it's just always comforting.

Aislyn: Staying true to her Midwestern roots, Jamie sometimes incorporates beets or other quintessential Wisconsin ingredients into her dishes.

Jamie: Even though cheese isn’t a part of Laotian cuisine, I occasionally like to add it in—it’s a bit of a humorous nod to my Wisconsin heritage.

Aislyn: Jamie cherishes the culinary community in Madison. She is among the many local chefs who honed their skills at L’Etoile under chef Tory Miller, and they recently partnered for a new event.

Jamie: A couple of weeks ago, we had a dinner together that was an absolute blast. It showcased our unique cooking styles, blending his Korean American background with my Lao American roots.

Aislyn: A visit to Ahan is essential, but there’s another experience you can’t miss while in Wisconsin: dining at a supper club. Interestingly, defining one isn’t straightforward.

Shaina Robbins Papach, restaurant owner: It’s fascinating because everyone you ask will likely give you a different answer. So, it’s quite subjective.

Aislyn: That’s Shaina Robbins Papach, who, along with her chef husband Joe, operates Harvey House, a contemporary take on the supper club. Shaina, a Madison native, returned about six years ago to establish the restaurant, which exudes midcentury charm, fittingly located in an old baggage claim area behind the historic train depot. They even feature a restored train car available for booking. Honestly, they serve the best martini I’ve had in years, complete with a little pitcher of extra martini on the side. Esquire even ranked their martini among its 50 best martinis recently. It’s the kind of place you want to linger in for hours, which aligns perfectly with the essence of a supper club, according to Shaina.

Shaina: From my viewpoint, a supper club is a restaurant where you might want to take your time, enjoy an extra drink or appetizer. It has a celebratory vibe, often located in older buildings with a long history. They’re typically family-owned and offer classic food combinations. Sometimes they lean more German, other times Norwegian, or even feature American steakhouse classics.

Aislyn: The supper club has been a staple for decades, but its popularity surged after World War II. Many supper clubs across Wisconsin have maintained their traditional charm. If you want to explore this culture beyond just dining, check out the documentary Old Fashioned—I’ll include a link in my show notes.

While each supper club offers a unique experience, there are common threads. They all emphasize community and savoring a meal together. You’ll typically begin with a cocktail—perhaps a Wisconsin Old Fashioned featuring brandy and lemon-lime soda. When you’re seated, a classic starter is the relish tray.

Shaina: Every supper club kicks off with a small bite, though it varies from place to place. Many start with some form of crudité, which was once considered the leftover bits from the meal—served to guests as a little snack while waiting for the main course. Some clubs still follow this tradition, so you might find a slice of onion or the end of a carrot, while others offer a full spread of charcuterie, cheese dips, fish spreads, and more.

Aislyn: At Harvey House, they present their relish trays on beautiful vintage cake plates.

Shaina: We include a variety of vegetables, paired with a whipped ranch mousse, and classic deviled eggs—definitely a staple for relish trays and supper clubs in general. We also offer a salmon spread served with rye crisps.

Aislyn: When it comes to main courses at a supper club, Shaina mentions that there’s quite a variety.

Shaina: Typically, you might find dishes like chicken cordon bleu, French onion soup, or a classic fish fry among the offerings.

Aislyn: The Harvey House once had its own version of chicken cordon bleu and definitely puts a unique spin on the fish fry.

Shaina: We use Lake Superior walleye, which is a favorite here in Wisconsin. We prepare the walleye into fillets, and then we create an herbed mousse from the trimmings that we spread over the fish. We also slice rye bread very thinly and place it on top of the mousse. This helps hold everything together as we cook the fish on the rye side, making it wonderfully crispy—almost like a fried fish skin or batter.

Aislyn: It’s a comforting yet sophisticated dish, perfect for enjoying in your best attire with a martini close by. For a more casual meal in jeans and sneakers, you should check out their new spot, Butterbird.

Shaina: In Madison, there aren’t many spots for fried chicken, so Joe began serving it at some of our private events. We loved the idea of establishing a Midwestern-style fried chicken place that welcomes families, students, and anyone looking for a friendly atmosphere that our kids would enjoy too.

Aislyn: Shaina mentions they offer classic Wisconsin sides and draft cocktails, and yes, butter plays a key role in their dishes.

Shaina: We named it Butterbird because we baste our rotisserie chicken in butter. When we thought about fried chicken, we didn’t aim for Nashville Hot or traditional southern sides. Instead, we focus on things like mac and cheese bites, mozzarella sticks, and Midwestern salads that feature cheese and ranch dressing. It’s our unique take on a fried chicken spot.

Aislyn: One of the aspects Shaina appreciates about Madison is the way people are still falling in love with dining out.

Shaina: It really feels like when guests come to dine, cell phones are mostly absent from the table. People aren’t rushing off, especially at Harvey House, but I’ve noticed it at Butterbird too. There’s a respect for the dining experience, and a genuine love for allowing the restaurant to transport you to another place.

Aislyn: When you come to Madison, you'll definitely want to do more than just eat. The city offers plenty of activities to help you digest. You can explore the Olbrich Botanical Gardens, kayak on Lake Mendota or Lake Monona, or even channel your inner lumberjack with a log-rolling class at Lake Winga. But if you can, make sure to go cycling as well.

Garret Olsen, Madison Adventure Tours: Being surrounded by water and the way Madison blends nature with urban life through its parks makes it an excellent place for outdoor activities. It’s an environmentally conscious city and very bike-friendly.

Aislyn: That’s Garret Olsen from Madison Adventure Tours. They offer e-bike tours that take you all around Madison. He and his wife, Jade, started the tours after enjoying one in Boulder.

Garret: We initially thought e-bike tours were already a thing in Madison, but we were surprised to find they weren’t. We realized the city needed them since it’s so bike-friendly. Most of our tour takes place on bike trails or dedicated lanes. With a central downtown area focused around the Capitol, it just makes sense.

Aislyn: I experienced their tour during my visit and absolutely loved it. It’s a fantastic way to start a long weekend or week in the city. The tours last about two hours and run from May through October, giving you a solid understanding of Madison's layout afterward.

Garret: Taking an Uber or taxi from one place to another can feel like a time warp. You just suddenly arrive without truly experiencing the city or grasping its essence. Being out in the open, seeing people strolling by, and absorbing the surroundings is an amazing way to engage with the city. Plus, having a guide to share insights as you explore adds to that experience.

Aislyn: If you prefer to explore the city at your own pace, you can easily rent a bike from the city’s bike-sharing program, BCycle. The process is simple, and the bikes are conveniently located throughout Madison. To wrap up my time in the city, I recommend visiting Kosa, Madison’s first and only Ayurvedic spa. Founded by Shilpa Sankaran, who you heard earlier, she was born in India, grew up in Madison, and opened Kosa in 2019 to bring something fresh to the wellness scene.

Shilpa: Ayurveda focuses on self-care and recognizes the holistic relationship we have with our bodies. Access to Ayurvedic practices in this country is still emerging. You typically have to commit to a large resort or sign up at a clinic, which can feel daunting. My goal was to make Ayurveda more approachable. Here, you can follow your curiosity and be present—enjoy massages, saunas, or facials, all grounded in Ayurvedic principles.

Aislyn: Kosa is housed in the Garver Feed Mill, a former beet factory that dates back over a century. Shilpa mentioned it had been abandoned for years and was in disrepair.

Shilpa: The building is actually stunning and was once referred to as Madison’s Graffiti Museum. It had beautiful images, but getting inside felt like an adventure from Indiana Jones; you needed a hard hat just to navigate the area.

Aislyn: In 2017, a groundbreaking construction project commenced, guided by a development team focused on preserving as much of the original structure as possible.

Shilpa: The Chicago-based developer, Baum Revision, envisioned a return to the roots of local food production. Now, we host Ian’s Pizza, where they craft their crust and prepare ingredients on-site, along with a kombucha factory, an ice cream-making operation, and Ledger coffee roaster. It's a fantastic venue that hosts winter farmers’ markets and numerous events, becoming a vibrant hub for the community to support local businesses and enjoy all that Madison has to offer.

Aislyn: This includes Kosa, which transcends the typical spa experience; it genuinely embodies a sanctuary for healing and wellness. I spent a delightful day there, indulging in a massage with personalized oils, unwinding in private steam and sauna rooms, and enjoying meals prepared on-site, thanks to Shilpa’s mother.

Shilpa: My mom insisted, "We must have a kitchen to prepare the food ourselves, as we understand the spices intimately." We incorporate cherished family recipes that draw from our Ayurvedic chef and head Ayurvedic counselor, Tanya, who enriches our meals with her Ayurvedic insights. This blend creates one of the most memorable aspects of the experience; guests often remark, "The food feels like a warm hug in a bowl."

Aislyn: Despite launching right before the pandemic, Kosa has flourished impressively over the past four years, with much of its success attributed to the support of the Madison community.

Shilpa: This truly highlights the constant evolution happening in Madison. Every time visitors come, there's always something new to discover—be it a wellness center, an innovative product crafted here, or an exceptional restaurant. Madison consistently offers fresh and exciting experiences.

Aislyn: It really does feel like a city that remains ever vibrant. And that's just the beginning of what Madison's food scene has to offer. The city boasts a wealth of cultural experiences, and we’re approaching the ideal season for a visit. Who knows, maybe I’ll run into you there!

In the show notes, I’ll include links to all the businesses and resources mentioned in this episode, as well as a piece I recently wrote about Madison’s culinary scene. Additionally, we’ll have a bonus episode dedicated to the city’s craft beer and spirits, so keep an eye out for that. Looking forward to seeing you next week!

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This has been Unpacked, a Dinogo Media production. The podcast is brought to you by Aislyn Greene and Nikki Galteland, with music composed by Chris Colin. Remember: The world can be complex, and we’re here to help you navigate it.