S3, E25: A Local’s Perspective on Paris: Discovering Hidden Gems in a Transforming City.

In this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene engages with long-time Paris resident and cultural journalist, Lindsey Tramuta, to explore the city's evolution. From her go-to hidden gem restaurants to the impact of the 2024 Olympics, gain an insider’s perspective on the City of Light.

Transcript

I’m Aislyn Greene, and this is Unpacked, the podcast that dives into one complex travel topic each week. This week marks the launch of our “Off the Beaten Path” series, where a local resident of a popular destination offers travel tips, etiquette, advice, and more to help us discover the true essence of the places we explore.

We’re starting with one of the most iconic and heavily visited cities in the world: Paris. Our local expert is Lindsey Tramuta, an American culture and travel journalist who has lived in Paris for over two decades. Lindsey is also the author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne, and the host of a podcast called, you guessed it, The New Paris [Podcast]. Through her work, she has examined the people and ideas shaping Paris, and in today’s episode, she reveals how she has witnessed the city transform over the years.

She also discusses her experiences since the conclusion of the Olympics and Paralympics, insights into Parisian fashion, and the one essential activity you should never miss while in Paris. It’s simpler than you might expect.

Aislyn: Lindsey, welcome to Unpacked. It’s wonderful to finally see you in person after collaborating for so many years.

Lindsey: Thank you. It’s great to see you as well. I think we might have spoken once on the phone, but this feels quite different.

Aislyn: It really is a different experience. It’s been so enjoyable for me over the past few years to connect with writers I’ve truly appreciated working with.

Lindsey: Exactly, and there’s a much closer connection with podcasts, which adds a nice touch to it all.

Aislyn: Definitely. We’re here today because of your extensive experience in France. How many years have you been living there now?

Lindsey: Almost 20, which is just wild.

Aislyn: What’s that experience like for you?

Lindsey: How does it feel? It’s like I’ve lived multiple lives, and I hardly remember what it was like to be the person I was before. I’ve certainly experienced it all, but France has truly become home for me, to the point where being in the U.S. feels quite strange. This is a common feeling for many who have spent their formative years abroad, no matter where that might be.

Living in such a major European capital has definitely shaped my values, expectations, and behaviors to be more European. The pace and directness of life, especially on the East Coast, can feel jarring now, I mean, I know you’re . . .

Aislyn: West.

Lindsey: You’re experiencing a slower pace of life here in America, but it definitely feels quite abrupt and . . .

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: . . . I’ve really evolved as a person during my time here, which is probably to be expected.

Aislyn: Naturally. Being surrounded by a different culture means you’ll naturally integrate into it, right? You can’t just cling to your old ways. Oh, hello kitty!

Lindsey: My apologies.

Aislyn: No worries at all! I adore it. That tiny meow is so cute. Recently, I interviewed a polyglot about her experiences with learning languages, and she mentioned how mastering different languages has transformed her.

She feels like she turns into a different person as she gains fluency. Do you think that’s true for you as well?

Lindsey: Absolutely. It’s a fascinating phenomenon because sometimes it’s tied to how confident I feel in that language. It really depends on the context or the people around me. There are moments when I’m bursting with confidence in French, and other times, I barely recognize myself. It’s intriguing how language allows you to explore different personas and adapt when necessary. Living abroad pushes you into situations where you inevitably have to adjust.

Aislyn: Definitely. We could all benefit from a bit more of that adaptability.

Lindsey: Exactly, because as humans, we’re not particularly adept at handling change, right? So, when you’re compelled to adapt to your surroundings or the people you interact with, it fosters a sense of flexibility that can extend to other areas of your life.

Learning another language has unlocked countless opportunities for me. Fundamentally, the French way of thinking differs significantly from that of Americans, which allows me to reflect on my home country through a more critical perspective. Language and living abroad transform you in many ways.

You experience some of this when you travel, but it’s certainly not as impactful as when you’re immersed in a new environment.

Aislyn: Definitely. And you’ve spent most of that time living in Paris?

Lindsey: Yes, the entire time.

Aislyn: The entire time? Wow, that’s impressive! So...

Lindsey: I’ve witnessed quite a transformation in this city.

Aislyn: Really? What changes have you observed? I’m interested in hearing about two decades in a city.

Lindsey: Well, part of the reason I wrote The New Paris was due to the significant changes I observed. There was a time of remarkable transformation, especially following the financial crisis of 2008-2009, which shifted how people conducted business and approached life here.

It was a period of instability, and many individuals had to drastically alter their careers. This wasn’t just specific to Paris or France, but it certainly marked a pivotal moment in my appreciation for the resilience of Parisians, especially since it had been a long time since they experienced such a major disruption.

Aislyn: Indeed.

Lindsey: The economic crisis really ignited a wave of change, creating a cycle of transformation.

However, this led to a surge of innovative businesses, restaurants, concepts, and urban projects. It was a pivotal moment of true evolution.

Aislyn: That’s incredible. Have you observed something similar emerging from the pandemic? Was that yet another cycle, or perhaps a different facet altogether?

Lindsey: It was monumental. While there were certainly many drawbacks, some policies and changes the city began implementing well before COVID—initiated by our mayor Hidalgo and her administration—set the stage. This includes the extensive network of bike lanes aimed at reducing car dependency and cutting down on pollution.

All of this truly shone even more brightly during COVID, especially during the lengthy lockdown. Everything sparkled, and having the streets to ourselves, the grand avenues when we could finally step outside, was remarkable.

It felt akin to Sleeping Beauty awakening to a completely transformed home. Plus, the bike lanes have continued to grow since then. I believe one of the most significant and visible changes resulting from COVID is that many of the temporary lanes introduced during that time have now become permanent.

It simply expedited some developments.

Aislyn: I understand. Yes, that silver lining—while the pandemic itself was undoubtedly negative, it's fascinating to observe how cities have evolved in its aftermath. You've touched on this a bit, especially with your podcast, The New Paris Podcast, which is now in its eighth season.

Lindsey: Yeah, it’s pretty wild.

Aislyn: That’s amazing. Congratulations!

Lindsey: That’s quite a milestone... Thank you!

Aislyn: Yes, indeed! You've conducted so many interviews over these past eight years. In a recent episode, you mentioned how Paris stands as a global frontrunner in urban transformation, particularly when you compared it to your recent visit to the United States. Could you share a bit more about that?

Lindsey: Apologies, someone just exited the litter box. I'm just waiting for them to leave because I'm concerned you might hear the scratching noise.

Aislyn: I can hear a bit, but it's not too disruptive.

Lindsey: We're all set. He has finished his task. Um, what really caught my attention during my last visit to the U.S. was how much the infrastructure seemed to need an overhaul.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: Whether it was the numerous potholes that had been neglected or an overall feeling of disrepair, it was striking. While Paris also has areas that could use some tender loving care, the pandemic prompted a focused effort to create a lasting impact by addressing these issues, especially as fewer people were driving around.

The way space is utilized has shifted, and this dedication to enhancing livability makes Paris particularly fascinating to observe, especially for those interested in how major cities evolve.

Aislyn: I completely agree.

Lindsey: ...you know, tackling global challenges, particularly climate-related ones. Pollution has long been a concern here, but it was striking to witness how Paris has revamped various neighborhood squares and key public areas. They’ve planted trees and removed parking spaces to cultivate a greener atmosphere. What do you call that?

It's like creating a sort of buffer along many roads, enhancing the neighborhood vibe. This is one of several strategies aimed at improving air quality and fostering a cooler environment. There’s a genuine dedication to reclaiming the city for Parisians, even if it means making tough choices like reducing car space.

Then I visited New York and the Philadelphia area, and it just felt neglected.

Aislyn: That’s intriguing.

Lindsey: It might just have been the timing of my visit; perhaps I saw it during a rough patch. But overall, as you mentioned about the episode with an urbanist who previously lived in New York, there's a clear contrast in how Paris tackles certain challenges.

I believe it’s not merely a figment of my imagination.

Aislyn: Definitely.

Lindsey: There’s a notable distinction in how Paris has embraced these changes, aiming to be a trailblazer, not just for Europe but also taking cues from cities like Amsterdam and Copenhagen in certain aspects.

Aislyn: Right.

Lindsey: Particularly regarding cycling. In many other respects, they lead the way for various European nations, while the U.S. seems to be in a completely different realm altogether.

Aislyn: Absolutely. Some cities are definitely excelling more than others in this regard. I’ve been to places where it feels similar; shouldn’t we aspire to lead in this area? But then again, looking at our national situation—which we won’t dive into—it's understandable that there’s some friction.

Lindsey: For sure. I’ve noticed some smaller American cities that look fantastic. I recall visiting Greenville, South Carolina, a few years ago—prior to COVID—and witnessing how local dedication can revitalize a small city into a bustling one. It’s quite remarkable, but it often faces pushback, especially when changes mirror what Hidalgo has implemented, leading to some discontent.

Additionally, as a woman, she experiences even more intense criticism. We can’t continue to treat these historic cities the same way; they need to evolve according to our current climate realities and population density, which weren't designed for the volume of cars we have now.

These cities weren't built for the influx of vehicles, so the challenge is how to adapt and create a more livable and welcoming environment.

Aislyn: Do you believe that most people eventually come to accept these changes, even if they’re initially resistant? They might start to recognize the advantages, as we discussed—change is challenging, and people often complain before ultimately...

Lindsey: Definitely.

Aislyn: . . . striving for improvement.

Lindsey: As noted by The Urbanist, this is typically the case; we often hear about cities that have become prime examples of excellence. Yet, we seldom consider the journey they took to achieve that status.

Aislyn: True.

Lindsey: We tend to overlook the challenges they faced along the way. Currently, we're experiencing it firsthand, and Parisians are quite vocal about their discomfort during this process.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: Additionally, other regions in France have also implemented significant changes, such as enhancing tram systems and reducing car reliance, particularly in urban centers. This reflects a collective effort among various cities to build a sustainable future.

Aislyn: Definitely. Excuse me for a moment.

Lindsey: Sure.

Aislyn: I think Europe has made remarkable strides in this area, which is encouraging. However, we often view this progress from a broad perspective rather than examining the individual city experiences and the challenges that arise. Reflecting on your early days in Paris, I'm curious about what initially attracted you to the city and what keeps you there two decades later. I assume those reasons might have changed, but perhaps not.

Lindsey: Interestingly, I pursued studies in French literature and linguistics, but I wasn’t initially a Francophile like many foreigners I know here. While not universally true, a significant number of them are drawn to Paris because of a deep-seated love for French culture.

My admiration for it actually began with the language. After studying for a summer, I returned to complete my final undergraduate semester. Once I could extend my stay, it felt like I was finally living out my dream of immersing myself in a French lifestyle.

There are very few places globally where you can easily engage with the French language. Aside from a handful of regions like West Africa, French-speaking Canada, and of course France, you don’t have the same opportunities. Being in Paris allows me to experience a life that bridges the international community while being deeply rooted in French culture.

Paris serves as a global capital while maintaining its French identity, providing me with that unique duality. As for why I continue to live here, it’s a blend of culture, cuisine, work-life balance, and healthcare. I’ve written about the healthcare system, which, while generous, faces significant financial challenges now.

This robust system comes at a high cost to the country. However, even if I had to cover expenses out of my own pocket, the costs here are vastly lower than in the U.S. This holds true in Switzerland and Germany as well, where these societies prioritize the health of their citizens.

It's nearly unimaginable for me to live in a place that doesn't prioritize this value. While I acknowledge that some improvements have been made for certain individuals in the U.S. due to Obamacare, it simply doesn’t compare. Once you've experienced this kind of support—especially for those with children—you realize how vital it is.

I don’t have children myself, but many of my friends do, and I’ve seen how that changes perspectives and long-term values. So if I continue to stay here, it’s largely for all these reasons, including my desire to live a life enriched by both languages.

Aislyn: Absolutely! You’ve really made it work.

Lindsey: Yes, that sums it up pretty well.

Aislyn: Exactly! We could easily talk for two hours about this.

Lindsey: The hassle-free experience.

Aislyn: Definitely. I can imagine there have been challenges.

Lindsey: Right, and there are indeed bureaucratic obstacles—significant administrative issues that everyone is aware of, which is a common stereotype. But this is also a reality in America.

Aislyn: Naturally.

Lindsey: Especially for those coming from abroad.

Aislyn: Absolutely. That's a really insightful observation. I read David Leibovitz's book about his apartment renovation.

Lindsey: Oh, nice!

Aislyn: It really exemplifies the classic experience of navigating red tape.

Lindsey: Everything seems to go awry. It's that typical scenario of red tape and chaos, which makes for fantastic stories once you've mentally processed it all.

Aislyn: Writing that book must have been therapeutic for him, especially with the cooking and recipes woven in. It’s so comforting. Now, since we’re recording this in September and it’s been a while since the Olympics, I’m curious about your observations on post-Olympic Paris and what you foresee as the long-term impacts or benefits of the Olympics on the city?

And, you know, viewing it from a tourist's perspective as well.

Lindsey: It's fascinating because we were so skeptical and cynical right up until the very last moment. Partly due to how the games were communicated to us locals, which I think was a misstep by the government officials, who seemed to discourage our presence in many ways.

Aislyn: Exactly.

Lindsey: That definitely left a bad taste in our mouths, especially since tickets were quite pricey. With them going on sale so long in advance, we were left to envision what the experience would actually be like.

As you may know, and as our listeners might be aware, we were hit with a political surprise just a month before the Olympics. The overall atmosphere was quite negative, and I don’t think any of us expected it to transform into this magical, enchanting success story, albeit with its challenges. Preparing for the games in any host city is quite a significant undertaking.

Interestingly, there were very few new constructions specifically for the event; instead, they focused on repurposing existing venues. In fact, around 85 to 90 percent of the locations were already in place, and the bike lanes were established, making everything feel quite seamless. However, Paris still isn't the easiest city to navigate.

This adds another layer of complexity.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: Moreover, several subway and transport extensions that were promised were not completed. While some were finished, many were not, including the airport express train that we’ve been hearing about for over 15 years, which is still delayed. The new deadline is now set for 2030.

Aislyn: Oh wow.

Lindsey: There's this strong push to speed things up for the Olympics...

Aislyn: Yes, absolutely.

Lindsey: ...which has its benefits. However, my hope is that the lasting impact will be that, especially now after the Paralympics, we keep discussing the severe lack of accessibility. It's a glaring issue that affects not just those in wheelchairs but anyone using strollers, canes, or even carrying luggage. Many people face mobility challenges. While bus systems offer a better option, they still have their flaws.

The trams work well but don’t serve the city center. Ultimately, we need to modernize and update a very outdated metro system, which is expected to cost over 20 billion euros. What I’m really hoping is that this will highlight the necessity of these updates as a top priority moving forward.

I wish that had taken precedence over the work on the Seine, which is an interesting project but ultimately, if I had to choose, I would prioritize upgrading key metro stations that are heavily used. That’s how I would allocate the billion-dollar budget if it were up to me.

However, I also believe that if we tread carefully, we can preserve the joy and magic we felt—particularly the French people—and this holds true for French travelers who have a different perspective on Paris, often tinged with a sense of intimidation or...

Aislyn: Right.

Lindsey: ...a level of distrust regarding whether it would live up to its promises.

Indeed, it did deliver, and that's a cherished memory for us. It's also a wonderful takeaway for those foreigners who couldn't help but rave about how magnificent and thoughtfully executed the experience was.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: I'm concerned that people might forget quickly, but I also believe that just browsing through a few images can jog our memories.

Aislyn: Yes, absolutely.

Lindsey: There were countless images captured during that period that remind us—we truly accomplished something remarkable; this was Paris like we haven't experienced in a century or perhaps ever before.

Aislyn: Incredible.

Lindsey: It's been a hundred years since the last games, but back then, Paris was entirely different. We were different too.

It's certainly an intriguing milestone. However, if we look at the trajectory of the Olympics, it may be quite some time before we truly understand the long-term benefits. I think...

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: ... ideally, the lasting impact will extend to the Department of Saint-Denis, the suburb just north of Paris where many events took place.

You have the Stade de France, La Défense Arena, and the Olympic Village, which is being redeveloped into housing for 6,000 residents, including private homes, social housing, daycares, and businesses—aiming to create an eco-neighborhood.

However, concerns about gentrification are also present. There's often a mix of high hopes and a reality that lies somewhere between overly ambitious expectations and genuine benefits. We'll have to wait and see.

However, I believe we are still very much immersed in the experience, making it feel significant.

Aislyn: Do you think the magic still lingers? Did the French residents stick around, or did many choose to leave the city?

Lindsey: No, most Parisians departed.

Aislyn: Got it. Yeah.

Lindsey: For the most part, they left, but the largest group of tourists during the Olympic period was actually French travelers.

Aislyn: Oh, that’s interesting.

Lindsey: While we definitely saw a lot of Americans, the statistics show that several million travelers came, and among them were a vast number of French visitors . . .

Aislyn: That’s great to hear.

Lindsey: . . . who attended because this was a completely one-of-a-kind event.

Many of these visitors reside in the Île-de-France region, which includes Paris. They might come in for the day or even stay overnight. I believe this is just as significant as impressing the global audience. Because, as I mentioned, the rest of France and Paris have this ongoing . . .

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: . . . there's a fascinating connection that likely traces back to the royal court, with Paris serving as the epicenter of leadership and monarchy.

For there to be a positive experience for those from rural areas or other cities, I believe it's essential. Currently, as we enter the back-to-school season, there remains a palpable excitement. The Paralympics just concluded a week ago, so it feels quite recent and . . .

Aislyn: Right. Right.

Lindsey: . . . and we certainly can’t avoid it to some extent, as the installations are beginning to be dismantled.

We're thinking, yes, this is indeed a reminder that we are transitioning to a . . .

Aislyn: Absolutely. Absolutely.

Lindsey: . . . a new era. There’s hope that even the magnificent cauldron, designed by Mathieu Lehanneur, will find a permanent home—perhaps not in the Tuileries Gardens, but it will become . . .

Aislyn: Right.

Lindsey: . . . an integral part of our landscape in some way. And we will continue to have these reminders.

Aislyn: That sounds amazing! You were there, right? What would you say was the most enchanting moment for you?

Lindsey: Yes, I was there, attended the opening ceremony, albeit from a sheltered spot. As you know, we were hit by some serious rain. But witnessing everything unfold along the river was breathtaking, especially after thinking it might not work out or that something would go wrong. To see it all come together in such a spectacular fashion was incredible. The behind-the-scenes magic was also a surprise, as we had no clue how the story would unfold. I'll never forget the rock band performing alongside the women holding Marie Antoinette's decapitated head.

It sounds shocking, I know, but the historical and literary connections woven into the Olympic opening ceremony were so astonishing to me. I will always cherish the feeling of knowing, this is our city. They pulled it off!

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: We created something unique that I doubt anyone could ever replicate, mainly because it would be too costly and too much of a security challenge. This was truly a one-time event.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: I think there's a certain quality to it—maybe not exactly exclusivity, but for Parisians, it felt special. We could proudly say this was our city.

Aislyn: For sure.

Lindsey: And we do love to take pride in that. When things go well, we relish in taking the credit, and this time it really worked out.

Aislyn: Congratulations then!

Lindsey: Yes, I'm... Wow.

Aislyn: How amazing to witness that up close, right?

Lindsey: In the rain, of course.

Aislyn: Yes, in the rain. But at least you found a dry spot.

Lindsey: A dry spot surrounded by rain. It was quite poetic, and it raised the question: what does an opening ceremony look like in Paris? Now we've experienced this wonderfully artistic, quirky version...

Aislyn: Yes, absolutely.

Lindsey: ...a showcase of creativity that I will always cherish.

Aislyn: That's fascinating. I recall a coworker, Tim, who grew up in London. He mentioned how, before the Olympics, everyone was complaining, but on the actual day, there was this overwhelming sense of goodwill.

People started making eye contact on the train, which is rare for them, and a connection formed. I found that really intriguing because hosting such an event is a significant challenge for a city and its residents. I'm really pleased it turned out positively.

Lindsey: You pointed out something that has lingered into early September—the kindness among Parisians. It’s not necessarily about chatting more, but there's a noticeable increase in patience and smiles. I've observed that recently, like I’ll hold the door for someone or smile at a stranger on the Metro, and they seem more inclined to reciprocate.

We haven't reverted to that defensive, grumpy demeanor just yet. Perhaps it has nothing to do with the Olympics and is simply because fall hasn't fully set in. Regardless, it's a nice feeling, especially since that sense of community and goodwill was palpable throughout the Olympic period, as you mentioned.

Aislyn: Absolutely. Let's hope this positivity lasts into winter—for everyone involved. I’d love to hear your insights over the years that could benefit travelers heading to Paris and France.

A major consideration is etiquette, particularly since I'm preparing for a trip to Japan next month. There are nuances that visitors might overlook, especially if they're accustomed to their own cultural norms, like the stereotypical loud American tourist in France.

What do you think travelers should be aware of, perhaps on a more subtle level, before embarking on their journey?

Lindsey: Etiquette is crucial, particularly in greetings. While no one expects you to be fluent in French, starting with simple courtesies is essential. Phrases like Bonjour, ça va? or asking straightforward questions like where the restroom is can go a long way.

It's essential to acknowledge that they take immense pride in certain interactions, especially when entering a shop or a restaurant. If you have a question, you should always start with a greeting. For example, begin with "Bonjour. Yes, I have a question. Où se blah blah blah blah blah."

Tension arises when someone assumes they can jump straight into questions with a smile, as they might do in their own country, without first saying hello. This may seem like an unnecessary step to some, but for them, it holds significant value.

This greeting shows that you acknowledge and respect them as individuals, not just as service providers in a transaction. There's also the topic of tipping, which tends to create some confusion. However, I want to clarify that the amount presented on your bill...

Aislyn: Yes.

Lindsey: ...is what they refer to as service complet.

However, it's important to note that this is not a traditional tip. It’s referred to as “service compris”, which is included in the total cost. Many believe they need to add a tip as they would in other countries, particularly Americans who often leave 15 to 18 percent extra on the bill.

This isn't necessary, though it may please the staff. The prices are designed to cover a service charge, and importantly, servers receive a living wage, unlike in the U.S. service industry.

Now, it's generally accepted to leave a tip of about 5 to 10 percent. If your experience was poor or you felt mistreated, feel free not to tip at all. Recently, we've seen more restaurants providing an option to leave a digital tip on their credit card machines.

Aislyn: Yes.

Lindsey: This has created some confusion among Parisians, as the option appears to be an intermediary step, and the staff member handing them the machine seems to linger rather than observe.

Aislyn: Yes, exactly!

Lindsey: So it becomes this awkward situation where you wonder, what happens if I decline when asked if I want to leave a tip?

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: I believe it's primarily designed for foreign travelers. I doubt these places expect Parisians to start tipping significantly. However, it has become common enough that when they hand you the machine, they explain, 'Oh, it will prompt you about tipping.'

They clarify that you can decline, leaving you to think: Can I really say no?

Aislyn: Yes, exactly!

Lindsey: Then it will suggest options, and honestly, it’s not the most comfortable situation. I feel similarly when I visit the States and order coffee, with everyone staring at the screen. It will present standard amounts, and you can also enter a custom figure if you wish. It's gradually becoming more common, though you might not encounter it at all during your visit. However, in places that cater to both international and local crowds—like fun cocktail bars or small plate spots—you'll likely see it more often.

Aislyn: Yes, yes, yes!

Lindsey: So, don't be taken aback or feel pressured. If you'd rather just leave some coins on the counter, that's perfectly fine too.

Aislyn: Got it! And if you choose to leave a digital tip, would you say that 5 to 10 percent is still considered standard?

Lindsey: Absolutely.

Aislyn: Got it!

Lindsey: I’ve noticed that some Americans, and I’ve seen this myself, can really struggle with the idea of leaving just a small tip, as they’re so accustomed to the American tipping culture. They often end up giving more than necessary, which delights the staff on the receiving end.

However, tipping isn’t required or anticipated in the same way it is in the U.S. Also, it’s customary to express gratitude when you leave a shop or restaurant, saying thank you as a nice conclusion to the interaction. Even if you can only manage a few basic phrases in French, that goes a long way.

Aislyn: Exactly! I appreciate that reminder about acknowledging people. For those with a bit more language skills who find themselves in situations where their French is met with English replies, what’s your advice for navigating that exchange?

Lindsey: I recommend that if you really want to practice, just continue speaking French, even if they respond in English. It can be frustrating, but I often joke that they seem less patient than Italians, who are generally impressed when someone attempts a complete Italian sentence, which is how I feel every time I try to speak Italian.

There’s a certain level of encouragement that is so . . .

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: . . . uplifting, which isn’t quite the vibe you get here. But if you’re determined, just keep at it.

Aislyn: Yes, exactly.

Lindsey: Just keep at it! Even locals who are trying to improve their French can feel thrown off by this.

You could also express in French: I'm really trying to learn; could we please converse in French?

Aislyn: Yes, definitely.

Lindsey: If they’re not willing to cooperate, that’s their choice. But you’ve made an effort to ask formally. Generally, when you take that extra step, they tend to be more understanding.

They recognize your insistence. It makes them a bit more open to the conversation.

Aislyn: That makes perfect sense. I also think it’s important to consider if they’re busy or what their situation is.

Lindsey: Absolutely.

Aislyn: Exactly, like some people just want to complete their transaction quickly to move on to the next customer. I feel that might not be the best time to engage them.

Lindsey: Definitely. Choose your moments wisely.

Aislyn: Yes, find someone who has the time to chat. Oh, there’s my cat! He’s quite the noisy fellow, sorry about that.

Lindsey: Adorable.

Aislyn: He’ll calm down soon. I might need to hold him in my lap, but let me just get this sorted out. This is the only way he stays quiet.

Lindsey: Good boy.

Aislyn: Is there anything else you’d suggest?

I mean, there’s the whole fashion aspect, but I feel like that’s…

Lindsey: Are you asking about outfit choices?

Aislyn: Yes, exactly. I think maybe skip the running shoes, though…

Lindsey: Right, but trendy sneakers have basically been the go-to footwear style in France for the past, I don’t know, 12 years. It's very laid-back. Going out in Paris is typically casual, except for maybe a Michelin-starred restaurant or two and, well, some of those left bank hotspots where you’re expected to dress up.

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: I’ll repeat that: some of those trendy spots where people do want to dress to impress are becoming rarer these days.

Aislyn: Oh, that's fascinating.

Lindsey: Well, you know, a nice pair of jeans paired with a stylish top works well. But there's a noticeable difference between Hoka sneakers and something like Vejas...

Aislyn: Absolutely.

Lindsey: ...the latter being a much more fitting choice for the city.

Aislyn: Yes, definitely.

Lindsey: Honestly, who wears high heels anymore? Unless you're just taking a cab from point A to point B, they're rarely seen these days. Definitely not high heels. But trendy low boots? Absolutely acceptable.

Aislyn: True.

Lindsey: Plus, I must mention that exercising in public has become totally normal, which wasn't the case when I first arrived.

Aislyn: Haha, right!

Lindsey: Back then, you'd never see anyone in workout clothes out and about.

Aislyn: Wow, really?

Lindsey: Or athleisure wear, right? That’s definitely evolved quite a lot.

Aislyn: That's interesting.

Lindsey: So if you're thinking, 'I can't possibly go for a run in Paris,' think again—definitely go for it!

Aislyn: Got it. Sounds good.

Lindsey: You know, if you're a cyclist, definitely ride your bike around Paris. Rock your spandex; it's totally acceptable.

Aislyn: Got it. Right.

Lindsey: Just maybe avoid having lunch in it afterward, okay? That’s key. You'll want to switch to...

Aislyn: Yeah, that makes sense.

Lindsey: ...regular attire if you plan to head out.

Aislyn: Yes, absolutely. Got it.

Lindsey: Socializing.

Aislyn: Avoid the athleisure brunch look, basically.

Lindsey: Wearing leggings all day is...

Aislyn: Right.

Lindsey: It certainly does. It might raise a few eyebrows.

Aislyn: Got it. Those are excellent suggestions. Given how vast the city is, I know you can't possibly cover everything, but what are some places you’d recommend for visitors? It could be food, activities, or experiences that you think are must-dos.

Lindsey: I like to explain that Paris is laid out in a way that allows you to really dive into specific neighborhoods. If you have three or four days, you can easily dedicate each day to a different area. For instance, one day could focus on the Left Bank—exploring around the financial district and then strolling along the river to Les Dessous du Panthéon. These are all manageable and enjoyable routes to take.

And while you’re at it, make sure to check out some neighborhoods in Eastern Paris, like Canal Saint-Martin, which leads to La Villette. There’s another lovely body of water there with cafés and activities all along it.

I’m particularly looking forward to my dad visiting in November; I can’t wait to show him some of my favorite spots in Belleville that he hasn’t seen before. He rarely visits, and when he does, he usually has a packed agenda, but this time he’s free to explore with me.

Show me your favorite places.

Aislyn: That sounds amazing!

Lindsey: I’m planning to take him to Le Cheval d’Or, a restaurant I absolutely adore in Belleville. It features an international team, with a Filipino Australian chef crafting a stunning blend of French and Chinese cuisine.

Aislyn: Incredible!

Lindsey: It’s a fresh take on the concept of “fusion,” executed with respect and creativity, resulting in truly remarkable flavors.

I’d take him for coffee up there and visit Butchomont Park, which he hasn’t seen yet. In the 18th, there’s La Petite Ceinture, an old railway line that’s now a charming preserved hangout where you can stroll along the tracks.

There’s also a large café-restaurant called La Recyclerie that focuses on upcycling.

Aislyn: Yeah, absolutely!

Lindsey: Paris has many unique corners that offer distinct experiences. If you want a blend of your favorite places from past visits along with something new and less familiar, you can easily mix those elements.

The canal is always lively; I love watching the diverse crowd on weekends and seeing where they choose to eat and drink afterward. Make sure to explore a neighborhood you haven’t experienced much yet.

Aislyn: Yes, exactly! It seems like those spots are beyond the main tourist areas.

Lindsey: You do see tourists, especially at Canal Saint Martin, which has become more popular on travel itineraries. However, it doesn’t compare to the hustle and bustle of places like the Marais.

Aislyn: Right! Haha.

Lindsey: Still, it’s not too far. These locations are all just a 15- to 20-minute walk apart.

Belleville is truly unique, offering plenty to do—like enjoying traditional Chinese cuisine, visiting cocktail bars, exploring bookstores, and checking out art galleries. It’s a vibrant neighborhood with fantastic views of the city, especially if you get off at Metro Pyrénées or Jourdain, where you can see the city from a high vantage point.

You can even catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower from Dinogo at one point. It’s quite stunning…

Aislyn: Wow.

Lindsey: It offers a unique view of the city.

Aislyn: That’s awesome! You mentioned all the new bike lanes. Does Paris have a bike-sharing program? Is it easy to use?

Lindsey: Yes, they have the Vélib bikes and also Lime bikes available through an app. However, people often complain that many Vélibs are out of service, so the city needs to address that. They offer both regular and electric bikes.

The bikes are available in green and blue, scattered throughout the city. You can download the app to easily find, pick up, drop off, or even reserve a parking spot if one is available. It’s quite convenient, and people are really making use of them.

Aislyn: Oh, great! And you’ve shared some amazing food and drink recommendations. If you were to describe the culinary scene in Paris as a whole, what would you say? How has it evolved, and what’s particularly exciting right now?

Lindsey: What’s truly thrilling is how foreign chefs have been instrumental in redefining French cuisine and the neo bistro scene over the past decade. Immigrant cuisines have taken longer to establish their place in the culinary landscape, often resulting in muted flavors.

Many traditions have been simplified. Considering Paris’s history with Chinese, North African, and West African immigration, these communities often had to adapt their offerings to fit in.

I recently spoke with a French-Vietnamese food consultant who reflected on how his parents had to adjust upon arriving. Back then, if you wanted to open a restaurant, the French tended to group all Asian cuisines together.

In the past, many restaurants offered a mix of Vietnamese, Chinese, and a touch of Japanese cuisine. While it might seem odd now, those chefs chose to blend in rather than challenge the status quo, focusing on survival. However, with the second and third generations from immigrant families, we’re witnessing a shift similar to what cities like L.A. and London achieved more swiftly and effectively, where culinary traditions are being celebrated. For instance, Lao Siam, a fantastic Thai-Laotian restaurant in Belleville, underwent a transformation when the three sons took over from their parents. They revamped the menu to highlight what they believe are essential dishes, moving away from catering to broader tastes.

Aislyn: Yeah. Interesting.

Lindsey: Their second restaurant, Amma Siam, features all the dishes they enjoyed growing up, which aren’t strictly Thai or Laotian. It offers a modern dining experience complemented by natural wines.

Aislyn: Cool.

Lindsey: This is a pivotal moment, showcasing that these culinary traditions can thrive together. We don’t have to dilute them for local diners who might shy away from bold spices or unfamiliar flavors.

This truly embodies the essence of the cuisine, especially at a time when locals are eager for authentic stories and genuine culinary experiences. It's thrilling to see top neo bistros and classic restaurants evolving together.

Additionally, we’re witnessing some of the finest North African, Chinese, and Vietnamese cuisines, now bolder and more authentic than ever before.

Aislyn: Yeah. I love that. It’s fun to see, though it’s unfortunate it took so long, I’m happy it’s finally unfolding.

Lindsey: This is the natural progression, you know.

Aislyn: Yeah.

Lindsey: I believe that France, overall, along with its former colonies, has a complex relationship with immigration. This topic is part of a larger narrative. In comparison to the U.S., the dynamics here appear quite distinct. Each nation has its own interpretation of this theme, but France's history with these cultures has been particularly challenging. The prolonged time it has taken to address these issues reflects France's struggles with acceptance and the need to confront its past. Nevertheless, it remains an excellent destination for classic cuisine, as well as a wonderful place to explore diverse culinary traditions.

What excites me about this global capital is that it was never intended to cater solely to French tastes. Paris is one of the world's most popular tourist destinations, attracting talent from across the globe, resulting in a rich tapestry of influences.

This significance is crucial, and I feel there's a growing confidence in embracing it now.

Aislyn: Absolutely! I now know where I’ll head on my next visit. I’d also love to discuss your second book, The New Parisian: The Women and Ideas Shaping Paris. You spotlight more than 40 women who, as described on the book jacket, “challenge the oversimplified archetype of the Parisian and illuminate Paris as a flourishing cultural hub of feminine empowerment.”

That's a remarkable assertion! I’m curious—since this was published in 2020, how have you witnessed that transformation? Are you seeing more women rise to power and influence in shaping this narrative?

Lindsey: Absolutely! Women are vital not only for the future of Paris but also for the direction of France as a whole. This is evident in the political arena, especially with new candidates from the recent legislative and parliamentary elections who are bold, opinionated, and brimming with innovative ideas. They are poised to play a more prominent role moving forward.

You can definitely see this influence in the arts and, notably, in the culinary scene. However, it’s important to recognize that the journey hasn’t been entirely smooth; that would be misleading. Michelin, for instance, is still lagging when it comes to acknowledging the talented women who deserve recognition.

They often offer excuses for the lack of women nominated or featured, but these justifications are increasingly falling flat. The key difference now is that women are speaking out, and activist groups are gaining traction across various sectors.

Activism comes in many forms, from mild social media campaigns to vigorous street protests advocating for change. Whether in the culinary world, the arts, or social justice, this city has always been one that refuses to hold back.

Since the Me Too movement and especially following COVID, we’ve witnessed significant shifts. Once voices are unleashed, there’s no putting them back in the box.

Aislyn: Absolutely! Do you think the situation is very different here? Is it following a similar path as in the United States, or do you believe the cultural differences create a distinct scenario?

Lindsey: There are definitely points of alignment. For instance, during COVID, the response reflected a global reaction to George Floyd and racial issues. This shows how we’re organizing ourselves online, especially when everyone was home with plenty of time to educate themselves on various topics.

What emerged was a powerful expression of frustration, rage, and anger, which has also been channeled constructively. There’s been a lot more organization in the years following that, and women, in particular, are demanding to be taken seriously. When they highlight an issue or a barrier, it must be acknowledged as serious.

What we’re advocating for now isn't just the recognition of these challenges but also asking: what actions are we taking? There are many vocal and active women engaging others in ways that feel right to them, and these topics are constantly being discussed.

The very fact that we maintain an ongoing dialogue about these issues indicates that we've made significant progress in the past six to seven years.

Aislyn: That's fantastic! I'm really looking forward to what comes next. One last question for you, which wasn't on my original list but just popped into my mind. For someone planning a trip or simply passionate about Paris and France, are there any books, podcasts, or movies you would recommend, apart from yours? Something that sets the tone or offers new insights?

Lindsey: Absolutely! There's a wonderful food book that just released called Amuse Bouche by Carolyn Boyd. She’s a British author who has focused on travel writing throughout her career. This book features over 200 short vignettes highlighting food specialties from various regions of France. If you love the idea of traveling through gastronomy, whether it’s seafood or a classic dish like cassoulet, this book provides history, stories, and anecdotes, making it a captivating way to explore France through its cuisine.

So, it’s titled Amuse Bouche and it’s quite recent. As for podcasts, I apologize, I didn’t mean to...

Aislyn: No worries, I realize I caught you off guard.

Lindsey: I think a better platform for current happenings might actually be Substack, especially with its newsletter format.

Aislyn: Oh, that's intriguing!

Lindsey: I do have a recommendation! There's a great resource called Paris by Mouth, which focuses entirely on food, offering restaurant reviews, insights, and anecdotes.

It provides information on what's open in August or on Sundays, making it a very useful reference to have. David Leibovitz is also an excellent resource that you mentioned. There are some others in French, but they might not be accessible to a broader audience.

Additionally, if you're planning to travel outside of Paris and need restaurant recommendations, Le Fooding has a wide array of reviews and listings for various cities. I often rely on it when I’m visiting places like Nantes or Marseille.

You can search by destination, and it will display the most recent reviews they’ve covered, which I find to be a solid way to get started and gauge where to go.

Aislyn: Absolutely!

Lindsey: You can trust it to guide you well.

Aislyn: Perfect! Thank you so much for that. We'll include those links in the show notes, and I truly appreciate you sharing your extensive knowledge with us.

Lindsey: Thank you! This has been a pleasure, and I really hope people continue to explore. The Olympics might be finished, but Paris is still buzzing in countless exciting ways.

Aislyn: Fantastic! I'm sure everyone is eager to book their flights right now.

That was Lindsey Tramuto. In the show notes, you'll find links to her website, her books, The New Paris and The New Parisienne, along with her podcast, The New Paris [Podcast]. I've also included some of her stories from Dinogo over the years. Is there a place you'd like us to discover through a local's perspective? Reach out at [email protected]. Don’t forget to subscribe to our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic—the link is in the show notes.

Next week, we’ll dive into the hotels that are enticing travelers with the promise of a more restful night.

Eager for more insights? Head over to Dinogo.com, and be sure to follow us on Instagram and Twitter. Our magazine handle is @Dinogomedia. If you enjoyed today's journey, I hope you'll return for more captivating stories. Subscribing makes it easy! You can catch Unpacked on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or your favorite podcast platform. And please rate and review the show to help fellow travelers discover us. We also want your input: Is there a travel dilemma, trend, or topic you want us to cover? Contact us at Dinogo.com/feedback or email unpacked@Dinogo.com.

This has been Unpacked, a production of Dinogo Media. The podcast is created by Aislyn Greene and Nikki Galteland, with music by Chris Colin.

And remember: The world is complex. We’re here to help you make sense of it all.