Say Goodbye to Flaky Nonstick, Forget the Clumsy Griddle, and Embrace a Reliable Guyanese Tawa
My grandmother moved from Guyana to New York in 1981 seeking better economic prospects and safety. The political unrest and racial tensions made it impossible for her to remain in her homeland, but she carried a part of her life with her. For many years, she worked as an international trader, transporting fabrics and goods between the U.S. and the Caribbean, all while continuing to cook traditional Guyanese meals for herself (and me), including roti.
Roti (unleavened flatbread) was brought to Guyana, formerly British Guiana, by Indian immigrants during the mid-1800s indentureship period when plantation owners sought workers from India. It quickly became a cherished staple in Guyanese cuisine, transcending ethnic boundaries, often paired with vegetarian dishes, meat stews, and curries introduced by African slaves, Indigenous peoples, and indentured laborers from Europe, Portugal, and China.
As roti became essential to Guyanese meals, so too did the tawa (or tava), which Indian immigrants also introduced. The term means “iron pan” in Hindi, and it is an essential tool for perfectly cooking roti.
Various cultures throughout Asia, the Middle East, and the West Indies have utilized similar griddles under different names (tava, tapa, saj, sac tava) and made from diverse metals (pure iron, cast iron, carbon steel, or aluminum). In India, roti is traditionally made from atta, which is whole wheat flour without any leavening agents, whereas in Guyana, workers adapted their tawa to create a unique variation using British ration ingredients. All-purpose flour lends a lighter color to the roti, while baking powder enhances the softness and airiness, contributing to the delightful texture of popular flatbreads like dal puri, sada roti, and parathas, making them thin, crisp, yet soft and fluffy.
When my grandmother was ready to leave Guyana, she made sure to pack her cast-iron tawa. Growing up as a Guyanese American, I saw many tawas at family gatherings, where we’d set up pop-up tents in backyards to roll out rotis with belnas (rolling pins) before slapping the dough onto tawas over outdoor burners. These tawas are often cherished family heirlooms, and I was fortunate to inherit my grandmother’s after she used it for 40 years.
I've kept up my own roti-making skills and discovered numerous reasons why everyone should own a tawa. It helps achieve the perfect crispiness for any dish, making it just as suitable for a leisurely weekend breakfast, a camping trip, or a large family gathering. Forget about griddles, cast-iron pans, nonstick skillets, crepe pans, pizza stones, and all those fancy cookware—invest in a trusty tawa that can do it all.
Why you need one:
A tawa delivers the ideal sear for a range of foods. Tawa chicken, a classic Guyanese dish featuring small pieces of stir-fried marinated meat, caramelizes beautifully; another favorite, tawa pone (seasoned, grated cassava), develops its signature golden crust: crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. You’ll find yourself reaching for the tawa whenever you want even cooking and browning, whether it’s for pancakes, grilled cheese, or quesadillas. One of my top picks to make is toast—thick slices of Guyanese plait bread buttered on both sides, then cooked on the tawa for a crust that no electric toaster can replicate, reminiscent of Texas toast but infused with Guyanese flavor.
In contrast to the concave shapes found in other regions, which serve as woks for stir-frying, West Indian tawas are completely flat, typically measuring 10 to 14 inches in diameter with a single loop handle extending evenly from one side. This design maximizes cooking space, providing ample room for a large roti while ensuring the pan is sleek and easy to handle. While cast-iron skillets or griddles can be acceptable alternatives, they are often too narrow to accommodate a large roti comfortably, and their sides limit your ability to flip with ease.
The durable metal can achieve a medium-high preheat and maintain that temperature evenly. Versions made from pure iron, cast iron, and carbon steel develop a natural nonstick surface through regular oiling during roti preparation. Similar to seasoning a cast-iron skillet, heating the tawa to an adequate temperature causes the oil to bond permanently with the metal through a process called polymerization. This creates a coating that enhances browning, keeps food from sticking, and protects against rust. A well-seasoned iron tawa releases food just as effortlessly as a nonstick pan, without the concern of flaky coatings.
Many continue to use their tawas directly over open flames (in places like Guyana, Suriname, and Trinidad and Tobago, roti is traditionally cooked over outdoor fires or chulhas, which are hand-built clay ovens), but they work equally well on gas or electric stoves. A tip for those using electric stoves: use a rubber spatula to flip the roti instead of your hands, to prevent moving the tawa and potentially scratching your ceramic or glass cooktop.
To truly appreciate the tawa's capabilities, try making roti. A range of rotis in Guyanese cuisine, including the complex dal puri, puff up beautifully on a tawa, but the simple sada roti showcases the pan’s essential role in cooking. This straightforward recipe requires just a few ingredients—flour, water, and sometimes a leavening agent and fat—and is easy to prepare. Preheat the tawa for 5 to 6 minutes until it’s hot but not smoking. Roll out the dough, and once the pan is ready, place it on. Cook until small bubbles form, then flip it using a spatula or, if you're feeling brave, lift the roti to the edge of the tawa and flip it with your hands. Thanks to the natural nonstick surface, ample space for flipping, and evenly distributed heat, the roti should puff up into a delightful fluffy pocket in just a few minutes.
What to look for:
For optimal results, consider investing in a cast-iron tawa, known for its sturdiness and availability. Aluminum tawas are also easy to find, affordable, and lighter compared to cast iron. They heat up quickly but may leach into food over time, similar to nonstick pans. Carbon steel tawas, primarily made from iron with a bit of carbon, offer a smoother cooking surface. All three types may eventually warp, producing a distinct rattle when you place dough on them.
Before you use a brand-new tawa, it's essential to season it with oil, similar to how you would prepare a new cast-iron skillet. Start by washing the tawa and drying it thoroughly. Place it over a medium-low flame to ensure it is completely dry. Once removed from the heat, apply a thin layer of neutral cooking oil—like canola, avocado, or coconut—using a brush, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Finally, heat the tawa until it starts to faintly smoke, then turn off the heat and let it cool. After creating this nonstick surface, use the tawa frequently and re-oil it regularly to keep it in good condition. If you encounter any rust or built-up grease, a thorough scrubbing and re-oiling will restore it easily. With proper care, tawas can be cherished for generations.
How to acquire one:
If you don’t have family members to pass down a tawa, you can easily buy one to start your own culinary tradition. Check out Indian or West Indian stores for options. A standard-sized tawa typically costs between $30 and $50. You can also find them online at BuyEasy or Amazon.
Alica Ramkirpal-Senhouse is the founder and editor of Alica’s Pepperpot.
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5/5