Sedona: Arizona's Must-Visit Destination — What Lies Ahead?

I'm not particularly known for my hiking stamina, so tackling the southern slope of Sedona's Mescal Mountain may not have been the best time for an interview. My husband, Wyatt, and I joined trail guide George Miraval at sunset for a six-mile round-trip hike, drawn by the promise of a breathtaking view of the nearby peaks. However, as the trail climbed higher, it became increasingly challenging for me to speak, let alone pose my many questions.

Miraval recently helped launch Trail House, the impressive new outdoor center at Enchantment Resort (rooms starting at $825). Wyatt and I traveled from Los Angeles for a long weekend, and I was eager to hear Miraval's insights on how Sedona — once a quiet, sparsely populated area near the Grand Canyon — has evolved since he arrived 33 years ago. Now, it draws around 3 million visitors annually, generating $1 billion in tourism revenue.

As we progressed along the path, kicking up red dust with our boots, Miraval summarized Sedona's transformation in five words: It's all social media's fault.

This sentiment seems to be a common theme. The day before, I had posed the same question to hotelier Colleen Tebrake, who is set to open Ambiente, a Landscape Hotel (rooms starting at $1,500) — a series of cube-shaped glass suites offering 360-degree views of Sedona — by the end of May. When I asked her about the source of the rising excitement, she responded: "Instagram."

Their observations hold weight. Miraval guided us to a hidden trail where we met only three other hikers and a rather talkative owl. However, just four miles away, a long line had formed at Devil's Bridge, a popular rock formation where hundreds of Instagram enthusiasts gather each evening, hoping to capture the perfect sunset shot. The situation has become so pressing that Sedona has introduced a new sustainable tourism plan aimed at redefining tourism as we know it. Visitors are invited to sign the Sedona Cares Pledge, which outlines safe and respectful practices for interacting with the land and community.

One of Miraval's objectives at Trail House is to showcase the diverse aspects of Sedona, integrating lessons on how to protect this precious area and its natural surroundings. This goes beyond just promoting a leave-no-trace philosophy; it encompasses educating visitors about the cultural and geological significance and the local flora and fauna along the trails. As we admired the breathtaking view of the sunset-kissed red rocks, he posed the question, "Would you want to visit such a stunning place and have to wait in line?"

Wyatt and I had traveled 470 miles to escape pollution, congestion, and crowds, so the clear answer was no. Yet, lines have become a reality in Sedona. There is one main road, Highway 89A, that runs through the 19-square-mile city. The views along this route are breathtaking: reds, oranges, yellows, and purples illuminate the rocks as mountain after mountain unfolds before you. However, even the most stunning scenery couldn’t distract me from the standstill traffic when, after drinking too much water during a morning trail run, I jumped out of the car, convinced I could walk back to the hotel faster than Wyatt could drive.

When Miraval arrived in Sedona, traffic was virtually nonexistent — along with most hiking trails. As an outdoor enthusiast, he took up trail running and mountain biking in the hills surrounding the town. Ironically, some of the paths he helped establish are now overrun with hikers, whose vehicles clutter the roads. Many residents feel that these visitors seem more focused on what Sedona can offer them rather than truly understanding the place. "It's degrading the very thing everyone seeks: to experience the solitude and spirit of the land," Miraval remarked.

Another staple of Sedona is chef Lisa Dahl, who moved here 27 years ago from Marin County, California. She also treasures the land but, unlike our solitude-seeking trail guide, believes that doesn’t mean keeping this former cowboy town hidden. "This place is stunning," she shared with me. "When I arrived, I thought it had the potential to become another Aspen."

Dahl loves the outdoors but noted a disappointing trend among western U.S. destinations: subpar food. "You return from the Grand Canyon and you're starving," she joked. Dahl played a key role in elevating fine dining in Sedona by opening the acclaimed Italian restaurant Dahl & DiLuca (entrées $24–$44) in 1995. Within a year, it attracted a Phoenix New Times food critic — a first for the city — and earned a glowing review.

The chef currently oversees six restaurants in Sedona, with her most popular venue, the Latin-inspired Mariposa (entrées $28–$48), boasting some of the area's most sought-after views. She points out that while some restaurants might rely on their million-dollar vistas to excuse a lackluster menu, Mariposa remains a standout for its flavorful margaritas, skirt steak with chimichurri, and impressive wine selection.

Dahl's achievements have ushered in a thriving restaurant scene, increasingly focused on a sense of place: a means to honor and protect the natural environment. Perched on the banks of a sycamore-lined stream, Cress on Oak Creek (entrées $24–$39), at L'Auberge de Sedona, offers tasting menus that feature foraged ingredients. Meanwhile, SaltRock Southwest Kitchen at Amara Resort & Spa (entrées $31–$58) focuses on locally sourced fare from the Verde Valley. Former Amara chef Lindsey Dale will carry on the commitment to local ingredients at the upcoming Forty1 restaurant at Ambiente.

With more hotels and restaurants comes an influx of tourists, but there is a limit: very little vacant land remains in Sedona for commercial development. When it opens, Ambiente will occupy three of the last available acres. However, Tebrake hopes that the hotel will, somewhat counterintuitively, help alleviate overtourism. She and her sister, Jennifer May, who own and operate it, drew inspiration from the Scandinavian concept of a "landscape hotel" to create a property characterized by low-impact architecture and sustainable practices.

The sisters shared that Ambiente's 40 independent accommodations, referred to as "atriums," are crafted to blend seamlessly into the surroundings without disrupting the local ecosystem. Each unit features a fire pit, a rooftop lounge, and expansive floor-to-ceiling windows that create an IMAX-like experience: as the sun sets over the red rocks, it's akin to watching a stunning light display on a 9-by-24-foot screen. The cubes are elevated on stilts — a stream flows beneath them, following an ancient waterway that a landscape architecture firm helped revive. "It's a recirculating system, so the water will continuously loop around," May elaborated. The hotel also plans to provide small electric vehicles for guests to use in the bike lane around town. "We envision guests arriving, parking their cars, and not needing to drive again during their stay," May added.

There's no need to drive to discover some of the best hiking in the region. A short path leads directly to an on-site trailhead, connecting to the Adobe Jack Trail system — significantly less crowded than Devil's Bridge, yet offering equally stunning views. Even in Sedona, there are trails that are just starting to gain recognition.

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2022 issue of Dinogo under the headline Sedona's Second Act.