Slow Travel: Experience the Charm of Brittany Without a Car

In our slow travel series, we delve into mindful journeys via train, boat, bus, or bike, offering insights on how to reach your no-fly destination and what to enjoy along the way. Here, Rebecca Crowe shares her adventures in Brittany and beyond, utilizing the region's robust public transport system.

A visit to Brittany feels like a journey into the past, with vibrant timber-framed houses, ancient forts, and charming cobblestone paths inviting you to slow down and appreciate the surroundings as you explore.

Aside from a friend living in the area, I knew very little about Brittany. However, as a budget traveler seeking tranquility away from tourist hotspots, the area's quaint towns, each boasting its unique culinary traditions and stories, captured my interest. So, I embarked on a sustainable adventure.

The Departure

As the gateway to Brittany, the impressive Gare de Rennes offers connections for trains, city buses, the metro, and long-distance coaches. The station buzzes with a blend of commuters confidently heading to their destinations, tourists poring over translator apps and maps, and day-trippers gazing at the departure screens. Most travelers skip the ticket office, using SCNF Connect to plan their routes and purchase tickets. This essential app became my trusty guide throughout my Brittany adventure.

The Journey

Brittany's trains are double-decker with comfortable seating, pleasant temperatures, and sometimes even a café car. Traveling by train is typically a quiet and calming experience, with passengers engrossed in their own activities.

In contrast, taking the bus can feel reminiscent of a school outing. The driver checks your tickets and stows any large luggage underneath. As you settle into your seat, the wi-fi you keep trying to connect to abruptly drops as soon as you log in. While seat comfort may vary, the reasonable prices mean you’ll be comfortable for a few hours, with plenty of money left over for pastries.

Brittany is filled with fascinating destinations. On your way to the popular naval town of Brest in the far west, consider stopping in the charming St-Brieuc, known for its vibrant streets, coastal hiking trails, and a stunning art deco chapel. Alternatively, you might hop on a train or bus to Quimper, famous for its majestic Gothic cathedral, making a stop in Lorient during your journey through coastal Morbihan, where a Celtic festival attracts visitors every August.

I chose to begin my adventure in Vannes, a coastal town whose half-timbered houses, medieval walls, and breathtaking views of the water evoke a fairy tale. I wouldn't have been surprised to see someone emerging from one of the town's delightful galette restaurants singing a tune.

Next on the itinerary is a visit to Mont St-Michel Bay. Although the iconic island with its famous abbey soaring into the sky is located in Normandy, the expansive bay that shelters it is shared with Brittany.

Since Mont St-Michel ranks as one of the region's top tourist spots, it's perpetually busy—so be sure to reserve your bus tickets in advance. It's absolutely worth joining the throngs and wandering through the winding streets that ascend around the island. The top-notch seafood is also tempting, with mussels harvested right from the bay in front of you. It doesn’t get any fresher or more quintessentially French than this.

The Arrival

Arriving in various Breton towns is always a bit of an adventure. Many feature small train stations located on the outskirts of the city center. While they serve their purpose, don’t expect free wi-fi or many amenities while waiting for your next connection.

For example, upon arriving at the two-platform Vannes train station, you immediately sense a small-town atmosphere before embarking on the 15-minute walk to the town center. When departing Vannes by bus, you find yourself huddled with others in a spacious parking lot while you wait.

The main parking area and bus terminal at Mont Saint-Michel are nearly 3km (2 miles) from the island, necessitating a long walk or a shuttle service that departs every 12 minutes. Be sure to allocate enough time to return, as thousands of visitors queue for the shuttle. Ultimately, I found it faster to walk back to the bus stop than to wait for the ride.

These logistical details contributed to the sense of adventure. Walking into a town from its outskirts allows you to witness local life: seniors enjoying coffee and pastries together, and children biking to school. In contrast, being dropped off in the town center often leads to an encounter with tacky souvenir shops and tour guides loudly narrating history in English, while tourists scramble to orient themselves using their phones. That walk from the station embodies the essence of slow travel: appreciating the journey, fully immersing in the place, and savoring the thrill of exploration.

Making It Happen

Tickets

Tickets from Rennes to Vannes start at €10, while routes to Mont St-Michel cost around €25. You can conveniently purchase bus and train tickets through SCNF Connect or at the station. I booked the day before traveling without any issues, but during peak season, it’s advisable to reserve well in advance.

Food and Drink

Some trains, including the TGV to Mont St-Michel, offer a food and bar car, although it can be pricey. It's always a good idea to bring your own snacks and drinks for the journey, especially if you’re taking the bus rather than the train.

Facilities

Most buses and trains offer wi-fi, but it can be quite unreliable. It’s wiser to use an eSIM if you need consistent connectivity. Both modes of transport provide ample luggage storage and restrooms, although, as you might expect, they aren’t always in the best condition.

Anything else?

Bus travel times are often just estimates; some journeys arrived about 20 minutes early, while others were 10 to 15 minutes late. Make sure to allow extra time if you have activities or onward connections planned.