Tahiti Island Hopping Revamped: A New Chapter for This Iconic Cruise Ship

In the crystal-clear waters of Bora Bora, five-foot blacktip reef sharks swirled around me as I snorkeled with fellow cruisers. Accompanied by these curious sharks and graceful stingrays, we glided through a lagoon with more stunning shades of blue than you'd find in a paint store.

This exhilarating Tahiti adventure (where the sharks were more focused on the food offered by the guides than on us) took place during a shore excursion on the m/s Paul Gauguin. For 24 years, this 332-passenger vessel has been the epitome of luxury, offering an authentic Polynesian experience as it sails year-round through the secluded islands of the Pacific.

For travelers seeking white-sand beaches, crystal-clear seas teeming with marine life, and a vibrant island culture—the hallmark of French Polynesia—the resorts are often the go-to destination. At the top end, there’s the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora or the extravagant Brando, located on its own private atoll. However, for those looking to explore more, a voyage aboard Paul Gauguin Cruises’ classic m/s Paul Gauguin offers a hassle-free alternative to local flights and ferries while providing a rich array of authentic island experiences.

This past August, my friend Kim and I embarked on a seven-night journey through Tahiti and the Society Islands, with overnight stays in both Bora Bora and Moorea. We spent time lounging on the cruise line’s exclusive beach in Bora Bora, ventured to the tranquil, less-traveled island of Huahine—home to sacred blue-eyed eels and ancient ruins—and enjoyed a day at Motu Mahana, a private islet off Taha’a, where the crew set up a floating bar and even a game of coconut bowling.

For those seeking longer adventures, 10- to 14-night voyages explore the more remote Tuamotus, Marquesas, and Cook Islands. In 2024, the seven-night cruises will return to Raiatea, a sacred island revered for its natural beauty and cultural significance. All departures are from Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.

What It’s Like Cruising on the m/s ‘Paul Gauguin’

After its 2021 renovation, the French-flagged m/s Paul Gauguin offers a luxurious yet relaxed atmosphere, with island-inspired décor that complements the stunning landscapes and experiences ashore. Originally launched in 1998, the ship was specifically designed to navigate the shallow lagoons of these beautiful islands.

This was my fourth journey aboard, and the m/s Paul Gauguin continues to stand the test of time with its welcoming island atmosphere, complemented by luxury amenities like gourmet cuisine and French wines. While it may not be the latest or most extravagant ship, it remains a consistent favorite among cruisers.

The cruise line has changed hands several times, most recently being acquired by the French cruise company Ponant in the fall of 2019. During our voyage, the French influence was evident, with a charismatic French captain, a French executive chef, and 50 French passengers among the 220 aboard. Most of the others were from North America. Announcements were made in both French and English, with a passenger mix that included families, kids, and seniors.

The majority of staterooms, along with the 27 butler-service suites, feature balconies offering stunning views of the sea, sky, lush vegetation, and the striking volcanic peaks on shore. With perks like 24-hour room service, my travel companion and I often began our days with breakfast in our bathrobes, enjoying the tropical paradise from our private balcony.

The ship's refreshed color scheme of blue, green, taupe, and pearl reflects the natural beauty of the Tahitian landscape. In our Deck 7 balcony cabin, we passed by a stone tiki statue on the way to the bath and enjoyed a spacious indoor sitting area, with a balcony large enough for two chairs and a cocktail table.

Throughout the ship, you’ll find subtle touches that evoke the local culture, from rain forest murals to a curated collection of Polynesian artifacts displayed in glass cases near the expanded piano bar on Deck 5. Among the items is a ceremonial paddle with traditional carvings and original lithographs by French artist Paul Gauguin, who introduced Tahiti's splendor to the world.

For those eager to learn more, a digital museum offers a selection of over 150 works by Gauguin, as well as a collection of photos showcasing people, places, and objects. These images can be displayed on a large HD screen near the display cases, allowing guests to enjoy an art and history lesson at their own pace. Original paintings by contemporary local artists also decorate the ship's hallways and lounges.

Exquisite Dining for Every Taste

The ship’s three onboard restaurants feature diverse menus that cater to a wide range of tastes, while incorporating fresh local ingredients like mahi mahi and yellowfin tuna, prepared in both Tahitian and French culinary styles.

Le Veranda, which requires reservations (but with no additional charge), offers a luxurious tasting menu with indulgent dishes such as seared foie gras, tuna sashimi with apple and pear, and a duo of escargot and mushrooms served on a poached egg topped with potato foam. At the open-air Le Grill restaurant on the pool deck, you can savor Tahiti’s signature poisson cru (raw tuna in coconut milk) in a laid-back atmosphere, perfect for dining in shorts. Meanwhile, at Restaurant L’Etoile, the elegant main dining room, you’ll find an international menu with crowd-pleasing options, including Asian and vegetarian dishes, followed by a selection of delicious petit fours for dessert.

On a Tahitian-themed night, everyone aboard is invited to embrace the local culture by wearing traditional pareos (skirts) or other tropical attire. The ship is adorned with fresh flower leis, and guests are treated to a special menu featuring poisson cru, broiled lobster tail with vanilla sauce, and pineapple financier cake.

Island Culture Onboard

Beyond the exceptional dining and decor, what truly sets this ship apart is its warm and engaging crew, primarily from the Philippines, who go out of their way to remember every guest’s name and preferences. In addition, a troupe of local performers and storytellers travels with the ship, bringing the vibrant island culture to life for guests throughout the cruise.

The performances feature two men and four women, known as Les Gauguins and Les Gauguines, who wear traditional pareos, with the men proudly displaying their bare chests and one showcasing his distinctive dark Tahitian tattoos, which reflect his family history. They perform traditional dances and songs in Le Grand Salon, often accompanied by dramatic video backdrops of island landscapes. These performances introduce guests to colorful Tahitian legends of gods, warriors, kings, and queens.

The Tahitian ambassadors onboard host various craft classes, teaching guests how to make roses from bark, string necklaces from shells, and even how to tie a pareo. They also share a few words of the local language and occasionally lead traditional bingo games.

While some of the activities may seem lighthearted, the Tahitian ambassadors also engage in spontaneous conversations with guests, sharing insights into their lives and local traditions. One young woman even shared with me her plans to apply for an economics program in France. These personal exchanges truly enhance the experience, offering a deeper connection to the region.

The cultural programming extends to younger cruisers on select summer and holiday voyages, where children ages 7 to 15 are treated to special activities as part of the Moana Explorer Program. In partnership with Te mana o te moana, a local marine conservation foundation, the program includes fun projects like creating temporary tattoos and educational beach hikes led by naturalists.

The ship’s spa also provides a cultural experience, as the therapists are trained in traditional local wellness techniques. My Romanian therapist used gardenia-scented oil and a blend of gentle touch and pressure drawn from the Polynesian Taurumi massage to leave me completely relaxed and rejuvenated.

During the cruise, guests are treated to a heartwarming dance performance by a local children's troupe from Huahine. At the end of the journey in Papeete, a powerful performance by two dozen professional dancers from the renowned O Tahiti E dance group caps off the experience.

Exploring the Islands

To fully experience Tahiti and recover from jet lag, I highly recommend arriving a day or two before your cruise. For those pressed for time, Paul Gauguin Cruises offers a day room (for a fee) at the Intercontinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, where you can relax and refresh between your flight arrival and the late-afternoon ship boarding.

After an eight-hour overnight flight on an Air Tahiti Nui Dreamliner from Los Angeles, we took this option. We were able to rest, enjoy the resort's pools, and indulge in a buffet lunch before heading to the ship, feeling revitalized by the time we boarded in Papeete.

To help guests make the most of their time at each port, Paul Gauguin Cruises provides a daily selection of shore excursions in partnership with local operators. These range from active adventures like ATV tours and e-bike rides to cultural explorations. The ship’s shore excursion team offers personalized recommendations to help you plan your activities. Tours start at under $50 per person, such as a scenic island driving tour.

For diving enthusiasts, the ship offers a fee-based scuba program, complete with equipment and scheduled dives for divers of all skill levels. Novices or those looking to refresh their skills can also complete their PADI certification onboard. In addition, passengers can borrow snorkel gear and water toys like kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, all easily launched from the ship. We took full advantage of this, enjoying a peaceful kayak outing off Huahine.

In addition to our shark encounter in Bora Bora, where we were accompanied by a guide strumming a ukulele, we also booked a bus tour in Huahine. The tour took us to a family-owned plantation where we learned about vanilla-producing orchids. We visited the island's Marae of Maeva, one of the best-preserved ceremonial and religious sites in French Polynesia, and explored a sacred stream with blue-eyed eels, which are lovingly cared for by the village of Faie.

Despite a few rain showers, we thoroughly enjoyed our beach time on the cruise line's private Motu Mahana, with our toes in the soft sand. We simply ordered another round of mai tais and relaxed, embracing the laid-back vibe.

With some free time in Bora Bora, we made our way to the open-air Aloe Café in Vaitape, eager to indulge in as much poisson cru as possible. We dined alongside both locals and fellow travelers. Afterward, we strolled beyond the touristy areas, taking in views of vibrant flower gardens and passing by a woman selling fresh fish.

In the verdant landscape of Moorea, we joined a snorkeling excursion where we encountered more sharks and enjoyed stunning views of the island's rugged coastline. The next day, after picking up shell necklaces from local artisans at the pier, we hired a guide who took us through pineapple plantations and up mountain roads to panoramic views of the lagoon below.

Later, we visited the relaxed Snack Mahana, where we savored more raw fish with our toes in the sand. Even a disgruntled diner couldn’t spoil our lunch, and we cheered the chef from the kitchen who quipped that some people just aren’t used to fresh tuna straight off the boat.

We strolled down a peaceful road, pausing to enjoy coconut milk from a roadside stand while exchanging friendly greetings with the locals before heading back to the ship.

In the end, the cruise offered a perfect opportunity to slow down and fully appreciate the serene beauty of the tropical surroundings, taking in the sweet fragrance of tiaré flowers.

Seven-night cruises aboard the m/s 'Paul Gauguin' start at around $3,500 per person, covering drinks and gratuities.