Texas's 38 Must-Try Mytouries

The time has arrived: We’re diving into Texas. Dinogo’s “Regional 38” series has previously spotlighted essential dining spots across the South, New England, and the Great Lakes. This project expands on our city-specific 38 lists and annual guide to America’s must-visit restaurants. Texas, with its vastness, rich mythology, and unique culinary scene, truly stands as its own region.

Having lived in Dallas a decade ago, I became a fan of Lone Star cuisine. As Dinogo’s national critic, I return to Texas annually, but recently spent a whole month exploring and indulging. My numerous meals confirmed that Texas dining has never been better. This collection features standout steakhouses, barbecue legends, Tex-Mex institutions, and cafes with superb burgers, breakfast tacos, and kolaches, capturing Texas’s unique culinary identity.

The state’s key restaurants also showcase its vibrant multiculturalism. New favorites include Vietnamese-Cajun crawfish boils, duck breast with mole coloradito, Italian bread dumplings with mustard greens, and Indian thalis featuring dishes like vinegar-laced Goa pork and turmeric soup.

Running my fingers over the turquoise Formica at H&H Car Wash and Coffee Shop in El Paso, watching as women served caldillo (green chile beef stew) and crafted breakfast burritos with egg and chorizo, felt quintessentially Texan. Similarly, dining at Kemuri Tatsu-ya in Austin, enjoying ramen with smoked brisket and banana pudding topped with kokuto (Japanese brown sugar) and miso caramel, was a truly Texan experience.

My appetite might be Texas-sized, but covering a place as expansive as this is beyond any one person. To narrow down a vast array of dining options to the essential 38, I teamed up with ten local experts deeply rooted in the area. Texans are known for their fierce pride and loyalty, so expect strong opinions on our selections. Let’s debate our picks while enjoying brisket and potato salad at Cattleack Barbeque in Dallas or a Deluxe Mexican Plate at Garcia’s in San Antonio. — Bill Addison, national critic

AUSTIN

Contigo

WHAT: A quintessential Austin outdoor retreat with a ranch-inspired menu. WHY: While Austin boasts numerous outdoor dining spots, chef Andrew Wiseheart’s Contigo stands out. It offers a timeless, authentically Texan experience with modern bar fare meant for outdoor enjoyment: ox tongue sliders, crispy green beans, robust rabbit and dumplings, and exceptional house-made charcuterie, complemented by Texas-grown fruits and vegetables. Relax on the spacious patio under twinkling lights with a mezcal cocktail and absorb the Austin atmosphere. — Nadia Chaudhury

2027 Anchor LaneAustin, TX(512) 614-2260 | contigotexas.com

Emmer & Rye

WHAT: A contemporary American bistro bathed in natural light, celebrated for its innovative use of heirloom grains. WHY: Chef and owner Kevin Fink has gained recognition for his house-milled wheat used in dishes like the White Sonora agnolotti with smoked potato and the hearty Blue Beard Durum spaghetti for his famous cacio e pepe. This dedication to quality extends to the entire dining experience: the service is exceptional, vegetable-focused dishes—such as minted kohlrabi with blue crab, charred broccoli with burnt tangerine glaze, and benne seed—reflect seasonal and national dining trends. The wine list features unique and eclectic choices, while pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph delivers memorable desserts like salted cream-covered strawberry sorbet and a caramelized apple tart with smoked juniper ice cream. Among the many dining options in downtown Austin, Emmer & Rye stands out remarkably. — B.A.

51 Rainey StreetAustin, TX(512) 366-5530 | emmerandrye.com

Franklin Barbecue

WHAT: The finest brisket Texas has to offer. WHY: In under a decade, Aaron and Stacy Franklin transformed a trailer-based barbecue business into a celebrated brick-and-mortar restaurant. Their journey includes serving a former president and earning a James Beard award. Not only has Franklin Barbecue become a top destination in the U.S., but it has also set a global standard for barbecue. With their influential techniques shared through videos and a bestselling book, 'Franklin-style' barbecue has spread worldwide. Despite a recent fire in their pit room, the queues outside their Austin location have returned, making the wait well worth it. — Daniel Vaughn

900 East 11th StreetAustin, TX(512) 653-1187 | franklinbbq.com

Kemuri Tatsu-Ya

WHAT: A bold fusion of Japanese and Texan culinary traditions. WHY: Chefs and hip-hop DJs Tatsu Aikawa and Takuya “Tako” Matsumoto have transformed a former barbecue joint into a unique izakaya. Surrounded by smoke-stained walls, vintage Japanese beer ads, and worn Texas license plates, they serve inventive dishes like “guaca-poke” and tamales filled with beef tongue and chorizo. Their takoyaki features octopus fritters with beef chili, melted cheese, and smoked jalapenos—creating a delightful, unconventional twist on traditional fare. Though the experience is highly anticipated with often long waits, a Matcha Pain Killer cocktail with buckwheat shochu and tequila offers a relaxing escape. — B.A.

2713 East 2nd StreetAustin, TX(512) 893-5561 | kemuri-tatsuya.com

Odd Duck

WHAT: A casual Austin spot with a refined touch. WHY: Chef Bryce Gilmore’s James Beard Award-nominated Mytoury defines modern Austin dining. Featuring Texas staples like seasonal carrots, grass-fed beef, and local chicken, Odd Duck presents an array of playful, flavorful small plates influenced by cuisines ranging from Indian to German to Tex-Mex. Highlights include chorizo-stuffed pretzels that taste meaty yet are vegetarian, fried fish heads, and breakfast pizzas topped with quail. Originally a food truck, Odd Duck champions local agriculture, even showcasing farm names on its walls. —N.C.

1201 South Lamar BoulevardAustin, TX(512) 433-6521 | oddduckaustin.com

Tamale House East

WHAT: Tex-Mex staples and a sense of community from a third-generation Austin taco dynasty. WHY: Amid Austin's rapid changes, Tamale House East stands as a bastion of tradition and innovation. Carmen Valera, part of the sibling-owned restaurant, reveals that a third of their offerings trace back to her grandparents’ 1960s Mytoury, another third reflects her mother’s 1980s and ’90s menu, and the final third features new creations. With meticulous care, they prepare migas, enchiladas, tacos, and tamales in a cozy East Sixth venue boasting a fantastic patio. —Meghan McCarron

1707 East 6th StreetAustin, TX(512) 495-9504 | no website

Veracruz All Natural

WHAT: Austin’s beloved spot for exceptional breakfast tacos. WHY: In a city overflowing with breakfast taco choices and surrounded by passionate debates over their origins and ownership, pinpointing the single best place in Texas is challenging. Yet, Veracruz sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez have established a modern classic since they started serving breakfast tacos from an Austin trailer in 2008. Their migas taco—stuffed with scrambled eggs, Monterey Jack cheese, onions, cilantro, avocado slices, and crunchy tortilla chips—quickly became a staple for both locals and visitors. Although the original trailer still holds a special place, the Vazquez’s North Burnet brick-and-mortar offers even grMytour precision and includes picadas, masa dishes that blend the textures of tortillas and thicker sopes. —B.A.

1704 East Cesar Chavez (and other locations)Austin, TX(512) 981-1760 | veracruzallnatural.com

DALLAS

Cattleack BBQ

WHAT: Traditional whole-hog barbecue done the classic way. WHY: Todd David at Cattleack stands out as the only pitmaster in Texas regularly offering whole-hog barbecue, but it's available only on the first Saturday of each month. On other days, you can enjoy some of the state's finest brisket, house-made sausages (the green chile and cheese is a must-try), and potentially the best spare ribs around. What’s remarkable is David’s ability to maintain such high quality consistently. Despite the challenges posed by weather, wood, and meat when using an offset smoker, Cattleack’s barbecue remains top-notch. —D.V.

13628 Gamma RoadDallas, TX(972) 805-0999 | cattleackbbq.com

Fearing’s

WHAT: Luxurious Southern comfort food from one of Dallas’s premier chefs in a chic dining space. WHY: With his signature smile and custom Lucchese boots, Dean Fearing has significantly influenced Dallas’s culinary scene for decades. Begin your meal with Fearing’s renowned smoky and creamy tortilla soup, then savor Granny’s fried chicken, perfectly seasoned and fried in cast iron. For a quintessential Texas experience, try the beef short ribs braised in Dr Pepper (the state's beloved drink) and served over spicy jalapeno grits. —Amy McCarthy

2121 McKinney AvenueDallas, TX, 75201(214) 922-4848 | fearingsrestaurant.com

Lucia

WHAT: A pasta haven where the homemade noodles are nearly as impressive as the salumi offerings. WHY: At Lucia, the menu evolves frequently, offering delights like gnocchi with cabbage and crispy yeast or a pear and chicory salad with cheese. Yet, one constant is the salumi plate. David Uygur’s tribute to cured meats features beloved staples like salami, coppa, and translucent lardo warmed by fresh bread. The selection includes intriguing varieties like fiocco, blood salami, and unique spreadable salamis. It’s a master class in cured meats with exceptional pasta as a bonus. —D.V.

408 W. 8th StreetDallas, TX(214) 948-4998 | luciadallas.com

Revolver Taco Lounge/Purépecha

WHAT: A taqueria that revolutionizes Mexican cuisine in Texas. WHY: Revolver Taco Lounge in Dallas is more than just a taco joint. It features inventive dishes like carnitas-style octopus with crispy leeks and wagyu carne asada. Unique offerings include frog legs in yellow curry and the Degenerado taco, loaded with aged chorizo, carne asada, frijoles de olla, and a quail egg. Served on freshly made tortillas, the tacos are enjoyed at communal tables or bar counters. The back room, Purépecha Room, is a reservation-only space that offers an eight-course tasting menu, crafted by chef-owner Regino Rojas’s mother, reflecting traditional Mexican ingredients in novel presentations. Rojas’s innovative approach earned him a spot on the 2018 James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Southwest long list. — José R. Ralat

2701 Main Street #120Dallas, TX 75201(214) 272-7163 | facebook.com/revolvertacolounge or purepecharoom.com

Tei-An

WHAT: An oasis in Dallas’s bustling downtown, where a premier Japanese chef excels in the art of soba. WHY: Tei-An offers a diverse menu including tempura, udon, ramen, sashimi, curry rice, and unique items like braised beef tongue and okonomiyaki. However, the standout is the soba — meticulously made fresh buckwheat noodles by Teiichi Sakurai. Enjoy them traditionally, served on a bamboo mat with a duck-infused dashi dipping sauce. For a full experience, book the seven-course omakase in advance, featuring luxurious ingredients such as A5 wagyu beef and seasonal fish, always ending with a serene soba dish. — B.A.

1722 Routh Street (One Arts Plaza)Dallas, TX(214) 220-2828 | tei-an.com

FORT WORTH

Fred’s Texas Cafe

WHAT: A testament to the enduring appeal of classic chuck-wagon fare over upscale dishes. WHY: Amid the shiny new developments of the West 7th district, Fred’s Texas Café remains a shining star of authentic Texas cuisine. Since taking over his family’s restaurant in 2005, Terry Chandler, aka the Outlaw Chef from his chuck-wagon days, has expanded to two more locations but remains dedicated to his mission: serving icy cold beer with the town’s best chicken-fried steak. This steak, enveloped in a sourdough batter and fried to a perfect crunch, is accompanied by hand-cut fries and a modest green salad for balance. Fred’s is renowned for its fantastic burgers, but the chicken-fried steak is the real gem. — June Naylor

915 Currie StreetFort Worth, TX(817) 332-0083 | fredstexascafe.com

Swiss Pastry Shop

WHAT: Exceptional burgers crafted in a charming, old-world pastry shop by a classically trained chef. WHY: While Hans Peter Muller continues to delight with the European pastries popularized by his Swiss-born father—like their ethereal Black Forest cake—he has also become Fort Worth’s top burger artisan. Muller creates mouthwatering Texas-raised Akaushi wagyu burgers that are as inventive as they are delicious. The standout is the seasonal Cloudcroft Christmas Burger, featuring New Mexican red and green chiles, pepper jack cheese, grilled onions, a fried egg, all nestled in a house-baked brioche bun. — J.N.

3936 W. Vickery BoulevardFort Worth, TX(817) 732-5661 | swisspastryonline.com

HOUSTON

BCN Taste & Tradition

WHAT: A lavish dive into Catalan cuisine that oozes sophistication. WHY: Yes, those are genuine Picasso and Miró artworks enhancing the restaurant's minimalist decor. In 2014, Houston entrepreneur Ignacio Torras convinced Barcelona native and esteemed chef Luis Roger to join him in a venture celebrating Catalan flavors. The menu begins with exquisite tapas—thinly sliced jamón ibérico, rich pan con tomate, and crispy, creamy patatas bravas—complemented by inventive gin-and-tonic concoctions. Roger’s innovative dishes include sautéed sea cucumber with lobster rice and an unexpected but delightful duck breast with quince, Idiazábal cheese sauce, pine nuts, and balsamic glaze. Exceptional service rounds out the experience. Reservations are essential, or you might settle for a spot at the lively bar. — B.A.

4210 Roseland StreetHouston, TX(832) 834-3411 | bcnhouston.com

Crawfish & Noodles

WHAT: A James Beard-nominated gem that masterfully blends Cajun crawfish boils with Vietnamese flair. WHY: Don’t mind the plastic tablecloths and paper towels at the ready. Located in Houston’s Asiatown strip mall, Crawfish & Noodles offers a transcendental Viet-Cajun experience. The crawfish, boiled and drenched in a buttery, spicy, garlicky, lemongrass sauce, are divine. Accompanying options include whole fried crabs by the pound and bowls of noodles simmered with shrimp and barbecued pork, topped with a runny quail egg. — Amy McCarthy

11360 Bellaire Boulevard #990Houston, TX(281) 988-8098 | (no website)

Himalaya

WHAT: A vibrant showcase of Pakistani cuisine by the talented chef-owner Kaiser Lashkari. WHY: Kaiser and Azra Babar Lashkari are the heart and soul of their humble strip-mall restaurant in Houston’s Mahatma Gandhi District. With nearly 100 unique dishes, many inspired by regional Indian flavors, the spotlight shines on creations rooted in Pakistan. Lashkari’s hunter beef—a cold, pastrami-like delicacy with a zesty mustard—is a standout. Also notable is resha gosht, a flavorful mix of shredded beef and fresh tomato sauce from Balochistan. Embracing Texas’s love for beef, Lashkari also offers inventive specials like smoked brisket masala. — B.A.

6652 Southwest FreewayHouston, TX(713) 532-2837 | himalayarestauranthouston.com

Hugo’s

WHAT: A revered institution in upscale Mexican dining, founded by Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught over 16 years ago. WHY: Their other notable Houston spots, Xochi and Caracol, focus on Oaxacan and coastal Mexican fare, respectively. Hugo’s, however, offers a broad exploration of Mexico’s classic dishes, showcasing Ortega’s mastery in balancing spices and enhancing rich, meaty flavors. Highlight dishes include cabrito with roasted cactus, lechón with a bold habanero salsa, and succulent lamb barbacoa. On Saturdays, enjoy a serene brunch with exquisite, artistically crafted chilaquiles featuring chicken and tomatillo salsa. — B.A.

1600 Westheimer RoadHouston, TX(713) 524-7744 | hugosrestaurant.net

Killen’s Steakhouse

WHAT: A sprawling, glamorous, and exuberant chophouse embodying the essence of Texas. WHY: Ronnie Killen’s steakhouse and barbecue haven put Pearland, a small town south of Houston, on the meat-lover’s map. His latest creation, Killen’s STQ, debuted in Houston in 2016. While I have a special place for his original steakhouse, it's worth noting that local Texas beef, like the marbled wagyu ribeye from Marble Ranch, is a rare gem. Complement the steak with classic, creamy sides. For a true Texan treat, don’t miss the upscale chicken-fried steak, perfectly crisp and smothered in peppery white gravy. — B.A.

6425 Broadway StreetPearland, TX(281) 485-0844 | killenssteakhouse.com

Kitchen 713

[Note: This restaurant shut its doors in October 2018]

WHAT: A culinary fusion crafted by two seasoned chefs, offering a dynamic array of global flavors that showcase Houston's diverse dining scene. WHY: Ross Coleman and James Haywood excel at transforming complex tastes and textures into dishes that energize the palate. You might enjoy a vibrant mix of chicken, shrimp, and andouille sausage gumbo enhanced with smoked fish (a nod to thiébou dienne, the Senegalese gumbo precursor); tender turkey neck shreds wrapped in bibb lettuce with Vietnamese nuoc mam cham; and catfish tikka masala. On weekends, the bustling brunch crowd eagerly devours comforting favorites like peppery fried chicken with biscuits. — B.A.

4601 Washington AvenueHouston, TX(713) 842-7114 | kitchen713.com

Pho Dien

WHAT: An authentic Vietnamese pho spot located in Houston’s Chinatown.. WHY: Houston's vibrant Vietnamese community has made it easy to find excellent pho, but Pho Dien stands out. Celebrated for its raw, marinated filet mignon slices called tai uop, it exemplifies Houston's pho revolution. Owner Tony Dien Pham crafts a silky, delicately spiced beef bone broth simmered for over 12 hours, resulting in a soul-soothing bowl of pho that ranks among the best in the nation. — Mai Pham

11830 Bellaire BoulevardHouston, TX (281) 495-9600 | phodienhouston.webs.com

The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation

WHAT: A Tex-Mex institution renowned for its skirt steak fajitas that rise above chain restaurant imitation. WHY: In 1973, Mama Ninfa Laurenzo launched her restaurant in front of her family’s tortilla factory, taking pride in her tacos al carbon — skirt steak grilled with caramelized onions and fresh flour tortillas. Her fajitas became a sensation, widely imitated and briefly franchised. While modern touches like roasted oysters with spiced crab appear, the classic fajitas — smoky, tender, and perfect in handmade tortillas — remain a must-try experience. — B.A.

2704 Navigation BoulevardHouston, TX(713) 228-1175 | ninfas.com

Pondicheri

WHAT: A contemporary Indian cafe and bakery that puts a Gulf Coast twist on classic Indian street food. WHY: Anita Jaisinghani, a three-time James Beard award nominee, transforms traditional Indian street food like chaat, dosas, and pani poori into visually stunning dishes with a modern Gulf Coast touch. Enjoy inventive creations such as Indian-spiced gluten-free fried chicken, desi fries with chaat masala, barley salad with beets and turmeric-almond dressing, and barbecue-style vindaloo ribs. — M.P.

2800 Kirby Drive, Suite b132Houston, TX(713) 522-2022 | pondichericafe.com

Theodore Rex

WHAT: A charming, uniquely Houston bistro showcasing the exceptional, diverse cuisine of Justin Yu, one of the city’s top chefs. WHY: Justin Yu transformed his innovative tasting-menu restaurant Oxheart into Theodore Rex, a more relaxed Mytoury with a la carte options. The menu still features Yu’s signature elements — a focus on vegetables, inventive flavor profiles from fermentation, and a dynamic balance of subtlety and bold umami — but with a more relaxed and often intriguingly unconventional approach. A recent meal kicked off with a refreshing combination of tangelos, snow peas, and thyme, followed by a boldly unique brisket stew, pickled in juice with crumbled white cheddar and preserved vegetables. — B.A.

1302 Nance StreetHouston, TX(832) 830-8592 | trexhouston.com

SAN ANTONIO

Cured

WHAT: The standout gem of San Antonio’s vibrant Pearl District. WHY: Cured’s name pays tribute to both chef-owner Steve McHugh’s triumph over lymphoma and the restaurant’s remarkable charcuterie offerings. A showcase near the entrance features delights like culatello (a year-aged ham from the pig’s hind leg), while the kitchen crafts innovative items such as spicy goat sausage and catfish mortadella. Mexican influences are subtly present in McHugh’s modern American fare — from masa-fried oysters on sopes with black beans and avocado mousse to bison tartare with huitlacoche puree, and braised lamb neck with hominy stew. Don’t miss the po’ boy specials at lunch, reflecting McHugh’s New Orleans culinary roots. — B.A.

306 Pearl ParkwaySan Antonio, TX(210) 314-3929 | curedatpearl.com

Garcia’s Mexican Food

WHAT: The pinnacle of Tex-Mex dining, showcasing its most tempting offerings. WHY: While it may seem outrageous to single out one Tex-Mex plate amidst a state rich in such fare, a recent revisit to Garcia’s—family-owned since 1962—solidified my affection for its Deluxe Mexican Dinner. This generous platter features two cheesy enchiladas, a pork tamale smothered in chili con carne and layers of yellow cheese (with optional chopped onions), a crispy taco filled with ground beef, lettuce, and tomato, alongside rice and refried beans enriched with lard and bacon fat. Starting with a chalupa topped with guacamole, the meal is rounded off with two unique tacos on homemade flour tortillas: one with tender smoked brisket (delicious with guac) and the other with a bone-in pork chop. — B.A.

842 Fredericksburg RoadSan Antonio, TX(210) 735-5686 | no website

Mixtli

WHAT: A 12-seat culinary think tank where two chef-scholars explore Mexican cuisine through immersive tasting menus. WHY: Every 45 diners, Diego Galicia and Rico Torres unveil a new theme—whether a Mexican state or a historical era—around which they craft elaborate multicourse dinners. Currently, the theme is “Rediscovering Mayan Gastronomy”; one dish, both visually and gastronomically captivating, symbolizes the lost empire’s trade routes by melding quinoa, fish roes, and avocado. Priced at $97 per person, the experience usually spans seven to eight courses over about 90 minutes. It stands as one of Texas's most cutting-edge dining experiences, blending modernist techniques with deep, pleasurable flavors. — B.A

5251 McCullough AvenueSan Antonio, TX(210) 338-0746 | restaurantmixtli.com

Ray’s Drive Inn

WHAT: The birthplace of the puffy taco. WHY: In the 1960s, Arturo Lopez introduced San Antonio to the “puffy taco”—a tortilla fried to puffiness in under 45 seconds. While other spots like Los Barrios, Teka Molino, and Henry’s Puffy Tacos have followed suit, Ray’s Drive Inn remains a nostalgic gem with its old-school Spurs memorabilia, virgen shrine, and “Budweiser y Tacos” neon sign. Even after Lopez’s death in 2015, Ray’s continues to serve up 500 puffy tacos a day, satisfying that quintessential San Antonio craving. — Jessica Elizarraras

822 Southwest 19th StreetSan Antonio, TX(210) 432-7171 | raysdriveinn.net

2M Smokehouse

WHAT: Barbecue with a passion, crafted by a former La Barbecue team member and his high school friend. WHY: Since its start as a pop-up inside Grace Bible Church and its subsequent move to a former Tex-Mex spot in December 2016, 2M Smokehouse has become a benchmark for San Antonio's barbecue scene. The Lower Southeast location draws barbecue enthusiasts with its rich brisket, sausage links filled with Oaxaca cheese and fiery serranos, and barbacoa available on the first Sunday of each month—a Texan tradition. Essential sides include loaded potato salad, pickled cactus, and “chicharoni” (macaroni topped with crispy fried pork skins). — J.E.

2731 South WW White RoadSan Antonio, TX(210) 885-9352 | 2msmokehouse.com

OTHER CITIES

H&H Car Wash and Coffee House

WHAT: A local legend in a border town, offering breakfast and lunch while detailing your car. WHY: Managed with a charmingly gruff demeanor by Maynard Haddad, who continues his father Najib Haddad's 1958 venture—begun by his Syrian immigrant father. At the vibrant turquoise counter, patrons enjoy diner classics with a regional twist. Beyond the burgers and grilled cheese, savor specialties that highlight El Paso’s unique position at the intersection of Texas, Mexico, and New Mexico: slender breakfast burritos filled with picadillo or eggs and chorizo, enchiladas drenched in rich chile Colorado or chile verde, and huevos rancheros. Unsure about my choices, the server advised, “To experience our food, get the deluxe plate.” The chile relleno was a standout. She was spot on. — B.A.

701 East Yandell DriveEl Paso, TX(915) 533-1144 | no website

Patillo’s Bar-B-Q

WHAT: The pinnacle of beef links in Southeast Texas for over a century. WHY: If beef links and rice dressing aren't your Texas barbecue staples, you might be missing out. In Southeast Texas, juicy, garlic- and chili-spiced beef links set the barbecue benchmark, and the Patillo family has been perfecting them since 1912. The juice flows freely when you slice into a link, so keep a slice of white bread or, better yet, some rice dressing—akin to dirty rice—handy to soak it up. Don’t forget to add a splash of sauce made from Robert Patillo’s grandmother’s time-honored recipe. — D.V.

2775 Washington BoulevardBeaumont, TX(409) 833-3156 | no website

Perini Ranch Steakhouse

WHAT: The state’s finest and humblest country steakhouse with an impressive legacy. WHY: Tom Perini, a dedicated cattle rancher and chuck-wagon cook, transformed a rustic barn into Texas’s top steakhouse 35 years ago. Awarded the James Beard Foundation’s America’s Classics accolade, Perini is frequently featured at the Beard House. His standout dishes include the pepper-crusted, mesquite-grilled strip steak; bone-in cowboy ribeye; spicy-fried quail legs; hominy with green chiles and bacon; and sourdough bread pudding with pecans and whiskey sauce. Supported by his wife Lisa’s expertly curated wine list from the West Coast, Europe, and South America, the restaurant’s charm also lies in Tom’s warm, personal hospitality. — J.N.

3002 FM 89Buffalo Gap, TX(325) 572-3339 | periniranch.com

Rancho Loma

WHAT: A remote West Texas gem offering a tasting-menu experience that matches the allure of its isolated setting. WHY: In 2003, Chef Laurie Williamson and her husband Robert transitioned from successful film careers to open their restaurant in a charming 1870s limestone farmhouse. Operating only on Friday and Saturday nights, Laurie’s ever-evolving menu features rustic delights such as mustardy beef tartare and smoky grilled quail over polenta. Their reputation spread so widely that in 2012, they added five guest rooms to accommodate the demand. Overnight guests enjoy breakfasts like bacon-laden grits and eggs, reflecting the same city-meets-country sophistication. — B.A.

2969 CR 422Talpa, TX(325) 636-4556 | rancholoma.com

Rudy & Paco

WHAT: The premier dining spot on Galveston Island, and perhaps the entire Texas Gulf Coast. WHY: Just a few blocks from the fishing boats, the restaurant specializes in Gulf red snapper, known locally as “pargo,” a nod to the Nicaraguan roots of Francisco “Paco” Vargas. The pargo elegante, crowned with avocado and crabmeat, is a showstopper. Don’t miss the raw seafood tower, featuring seasonal shellfish, ceviches, and crab claws. The service is elegantly old-school, with staff presenting dishes with synchronized silver dome reveals. Voilà! — Robb Walsh

2028 Postoffice StreetGalveston, TX(409) 762-3696 | rudyandpaco.com

Snow’s BBQ

WHAT: The epitome of Texas barbecue, perfected by 82-year-old pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz. WHY: Despite being open only once a week and often selling out before lunch, Snow’s BBQ delivers unparalleled quality. The brisket, especially the fatty cuts, is outstanding, and the smoked chicken is so sought after that it’s usually the first to go. Pork steaks and spare ribs challenge the notion that Texans only do beef barbecue. Watching Tomanetz in action—shoveling coals, flipping chickens, and basting pork steaks with her special sauce—is a show worth waking up early for. — D.V.

516 Main StreetLexington, TX(979) 773-4640 | snowsbbq.com

Taco Palenque

WHAT: A standout taco chain that embraces local traditions. WHY: While Texas boasts a variety of successful Tex-Mex fast-food chains, from the ubiquitous Taco Cabana to the trendy Torchy’s, Taco Palenque elevates the game with freshly made tortillas, menudo, and a salsa bar at every location. Established in 1987 by Juan Francisco Ochoa, this chain’s 20-plus outlets deliver top-notch, affordable border cuisine, including the famed pirata taco, a Laredo favorite with beans, cheese, and fajita meat. — M.M.

Multiple locationsLaredo, TXtacopalenque.com

Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que

WHAT: The last bastion of a Texas tradition along the Rio Grande. WHY: Once common across South Texas, shops specializing in barbacoa de cabeza en pozo a la leña (whole beef head slow-cooked in an underground, mesquite-fueled pit) are now nearly extinct. Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville, a Spanish-speaking town near the border, is a rare survivor. Owner Armando Vera keeps this tradition alive, serving succulent cuts of cheek, tongue, lips, and other head parts with warm tortillas. Despite being open only on weekends, Vera’s often runs out of meat before closing at 2 p.m., especially the coveted “Mexican caviar” — cow eyes. — J.R.R.

2404 Southmost RoadBrownsville, TX(956) 546-4159 | no website

The Village Bakery

WHAT: Texas's oldest Czech bakery, established in 1952. WHY: Czech immigrants began arriving in Texas in the 1850s, settling in the fertile blackland of the state, including the quaint town of West. Their rich culinary heritage, along with their language and polka music, has merged with local traditions, creating uniquely Texan pastries and dishes. The charming Village Bakery, often overshadowed by newer, flashier spots along Interstate 35, offers authentic Texas Czech pastries. Here, you'll find classic kolaches filled with apricot, poppyseed, and cream cheese, alongside rare treats like sweet buchta rolls and Christmas braided bread vanocka. The bakery claims to have invented the popular sausage kolaches, known locally as klobasniki. — Dawn Orsak

113 East Oak StreetWest, TX(254) 826-5151 | no website

CONTRIBUTORS

Nadia Chaudhury serves as the editor of Dinogo Austin.

Jessica Elizarraras is the food and nightlife editor at the San Antonio Current.

Meghan McCarron is Dinogo’s dedicated correspondent and previously served as the editor of Easter Austin.

Amy McCarthy oversees Dinogo Dallas and Dinogo Houston as the editor.

June Naylor is a Fort Worth-based food and travel journalist with over 25 years of experience, exploring Texas for her next culinary discovery.

Dawn Orsak is a passionate sixth-generation Texan who delves into food, history, and family through her blog Svacina Project and co-curates the traveling exhibit Texas Czechs: Rooted in Tradition.

Mai Pham is a Houston-based freelance writer covering food, wine, and travel.

José R. Ralat is the founder of thetacotrail.com and author of the upcoming book American Tacos: A History and Guide to the Taco Trail North of the Border.

Daniel Vaughn serves as the Barbecue Editor at Texas Monthly.

Robb Walsh is a three-time James Beard Award winner who splits his time between Galveston Bay, Texas, and Galway Bay, Ireland.

The South’s 38 Must-Try Restaurants | New England’s 38 Must-Try Restaurants | The Midwest’s 38 Must-Try Restaurants | The Best New Restaurants of 2017 | America’s Best Restaurants of 2017

Bill Addison is Dinogo's national critic, traveling across the U.S. to highlight America’s top restaurants. Explore all his reviews in the archive. All images are by Bill Addison unless specified otherwise.