The Acceptable Times to Eat Pizza with Cutlery

Having spent most of my life in the U.S., I was raised in a thoroughly Brazilian home. From greeting friends with a kiss to watching novelas with my grandmother and donning all white on New Year’s, using a fork and knife for nearly every meal, including pizza, was just part of the routine.

When I asked a family member why she opts for a fork and knife with her pizza, she simply said, “What else would you use? Your hands?” As someone with dual citizenship, I appreciate eating pizza both ways, but burnt fingers and messy hands often lead me to prefer utensils. This choice, especially during my two years in New York, risked me being dubbed a “pizza-forker” alongside figures like former Ohio Governor John Kasich and NYC Mayor Bill de Blasio. Yet, there's a valid reason for our preference in Brazil.

Brazil’s first pizzeria opened in São Paulo in 1910, brought by a wave of Italian immigrants settling there in the late 19th century. Brazilian pizzaiolos got creative, adding unique and often hefty toppings ranging from hard-boiled eggs to canned tuna and even brigadeiro, a sweet chocolate mousse made from condensed milk. Over time, Brazilian pizza evolved into its own distinct style, becoming immensely popular across the country.

Contemporary Brazilian pizza menus reflect the essence of my grandmother’s kitchen, featuring everyday ingredients like chicken, ham, tuna, eggs, olives, broccoli, onions, and requeijão (a creamy cheese). Take the Portuguesa, for example: a classic combination of hard-boiled eggs, onions, peas, ham, and plenty of cheese. It’s nearly impossible to lift a slice without losing a few toppings, making a fork essential to maintain the dish’s integrity.

Another example is the quatro queijos, a cheese lover's dream made with mozzarella, parmesan, gorgonzola, and the creamy catupiry cheese. It arrives steaming hot, and trying to lift it with your hands could result in a cheese avalanche onto your lap. I would never attempt to eat a slice like this without utensils, and if you're at a Brazilian pizzeria, neither should you.

It's worth noting that Brazilian pizza crusts are nothing like the sturdy New York slices that are easy to hold or fold—hence the absence of slice culture here. You'd never catch President Jair Bolsonaro casually munching on pizza with his hands in Brazil, as he did in New York. At home, the crust is thinner and softer, almost resembling a crepe at the bottom. If he or anyone else tried to lift a fresh slice piled high with toppings, it would inevitably flop over.

Even as lighter Neapolitan-style pizzas and gourmet options are on the rise in Brazil, most diners still prefer to use utensils. This can be a challenge for newcomers. Chef Sei Shiroma, a native New Yorker, faced this reality when he opened his first pizzeria, Ferro e Farinha, in Rio de Janeiro in 2014. His pizzas, crafted from naturally fermented dough and baked in a wood-fired oven, offer a light, crispy crust, unlike traditional Brazilian fare. “This is the kind of pizza you should eat with your hands,” Shiroma advises.

The chef, who relocated from New York to Rio a decade ago, used to recommend that all his diners enjoy their pizza without utensils when he first opened. However, patrons frequently requested forks and knives, which Shiroma used as a chance to educate them on the “best way” to savor his pizza—namely, with their hands.

Shiroma has since adapted to Brazilian dining customs and is now gearing up to open his fourth location. He emphasizes that he isn't here to dictate how diners should eat, but to serve excellent pizza. Now, all his restaurants are equipped with forks and knives at the tables. “Pizza doesn’t have to fit the New York mold,” Shiroma says. And it certainly doesn’t have to be eaten that way, either.

So next time you find yourself ordering pizza in Brazil, New York, or any favorite pizzeria, don’t hesitate to grab a knife and fork if the slice demands it. And if you notice someone else doing the same, cut them some slack—they might just be Brazilian.

Carla Vianna is a travel writer and photographer based in Rio de Janeiro. Nicole Medina is an illustrator from Philadelphia who loves to capture adventures through her art, utilizing bold colors and patterns.