The Art of French Dining Unveiled

Je voudrais réserver une table (I would like to book a table)

pour deux personnes (for two people)

pour le quinze octobre (on the fifteenth of October)

à vingt heures. (at 8 p.m.)

Using the 24-hour clock is essential to avoid any mix-ups, so remember to add 12.

...and keep your commitments.

If you secure a reservation, make sure to honor it. Many Parisian restaurants typically offer only one service each night because the French enjoy taking their time. Consequently, a no-show can have significant financial consequences for a small Mytoury. If you need to cancel, provide as much notice as possible. (And avoid double booking: Tourists have gained a reputation for making several reservations at popular spots across town and deciding last minute which one to keep. This behavior is frowned upon.) As online reservations have become more prevalent, many restaurants now require a credit card deposit to guard against no-shows.

Restaurants will need your phone number to confirm your reservation a day or two prior—don’t forget to include your country code. If you miss their call to confirm, you might arrive only to find your reservation has been given away. To avoid this, consider calling the day before to check in. If you booked online, expect a text or email that requires your confirmation.

Be aware of which days to visit...

Many restaurants and shops tend to close on Sundays or Mondays. Travelers often overlook this, so review your list of dining spots to see which ones are open on those days and plan to visit accordingly.

...and which months are best

In August, and increasingly during the latter half of July, Paris can feel deserted (with the exception of this year during the Olympics). Many restaurants close for anywhere from two to six weeks as locals take vacations. If your goal is to indulge in the city's culinary offerings, you might want to consider a different time to visit. Late December, while popular with tourists, can also be risky as many restaurants shut down for Christmas and New Year’s—family holidays when most prefer to cook at home. If you decide to dine out, be prepared for higher prices for often lackluster holiday menus. Alternatively, renting an apartment with a kitchen allows you to shop and cook like a local in advance.

Dine at the appropriate times

Traditional mealtimes remain strong in French culture. Lunch is typically served between 12:30 and 2:30 p.m., while dinner has historically been offered from 8 to 10 p.m. However, this is evolving with the rise of online reservations that now provide two dining slots each evening—usually an earlier one at 7 or 7:30 p.m. and a later one at 9 or 9:30 p.m. Notable restaurants like Cheval d’Or, Sushi Shunei, and Early June clearly state that diners must finish within a two-hour window to allow for the next seating, rather than lingering indefinitely.

Rebecca Asthalter, co-owner of Fulgurances L’Adresse, links the earlier dining habits to changes brought by COVID-19. In October 2020, during the pandemic's initial phases, France imposed a 9 p.m. curfew for all dining establishments. This was later adjusted to 7 p.m. before moving back to 11 p.m. and eventually lifted. “We thought it was unusual for people to dine at 6 p.m., as that’s not part of the French lifestyle,” Asthalter recalls. “When we launched Fulgurances, our first seating was at 7:30 p.m., and it attracted mostly tourists. Filling that time slot was consistently challenging.”

However, since the curfews were lifted, Asthalter notes that dining habits haven't reverted to pre-pandemic patterns. 'We've seen a growing number of requests for 7:30 p.m. reservations, while the once-popular 9:30 p.m. slot has dwindled. Now, we actually begin serving at 7 p.m., with most diners coming in between 7 and 8:30 p.m.,' she explains. 'It’s definitely the French clientele driving this change when they have the choice.'

For meals outside these traditional hours, consider more casual dining options. Wine bars offer flexible hours for those wanting a drink or snack before or after their main meal. Brasseries provide all-day service, while bakeries and patisseries are great for late-afternoon treats. It’s perfectly acceptable to linger in cafes, but it's courteous to periodically order drinks or snacks to 'pay rent' for your table, so to speak.

Let go of some control

In France, the customer isn’t always right; often, the customer is mistaken. Chefs see themselves as artists inviting you into their creative spaces, and restaurant staff take pride in their skills. Embrace the expertise of the talented team taking care of you.

Don’t anticipate many adjustments

If you have any dietary restrictions or allergies, inform the restaurant when making your reservation. Parisian kitchens can be tight on space and alternatives, so notifying them in advance will enhance your dining experience and encourage the restaurant to accommodate you better.

Order like a true Parisian

On French menus (cartes), 'entrées' refers to starters, while main courses are labeled 'plats.' This can be misleading for Americans, who view 'entrée' as the main dish. While Parisians may dine simply at home, they typically embrace the full three-course experience when dining out, which includes entrée-plat-dessert. It's considered improper to order just two starters or solely a main course.

If you’re not feeling up for a three-course meal—keeping in mind that portions here are generally smaller than in the U.S.—consider visiting a wine or tapas bar. There, you can enjoy a variety of dishes without adhering to the traditional format. Wine bars offer everything from gourmet cuisine to hearty charcuterie and cheese platters.

It’s completely fine to ask for tap water. Opting for bottled water can sometimes lead to spending more on it than on wine. To request tap water, simply say, “une carafe d’eau.”

Don’t expect bread and butter to automatically accompany your meal. Bread typically arrives with your main dish for soaking up sauces. Unless you’re at an upscale establishment, you probably won’t find a bread plate at your table; it’s customary to place your bread directly on the table. It might feel odd initially, but you’ll soon adapt.

If cheese is on the menu, it usually appears at the end of the meal, either right before dessert or as a substitute for it. Occasionally, you might find fresh cheese like burrata served among the starters, and at a wine bar, you can order cheese at any time.

Pay your bill—and tip—like a local would.

In France, it has traditionally been seen as impolite to present the bill (l’addition) until the customer specifically asks for it. Whether you’re at a cozy cafe or a high-end restaurant, patrons used to be free to linger indefinitely. The catch? You often needed to be a bit proactive to catch the attention of your server. While this is still the case in some venues, many places with two nightly seatings now make it easier for diners to ask for their check, as they need to free up tables for the next round.

In Paris, meal prices include service charges, so tipping is not mandatory but is appreciated. Most locals tend to leave around 5 percent, or 10 percent for exceptional service. Until recently, credit card bills lacked a tip line, requiring diners to carry cash for gratuities. However, the rise of digital payment options in cafes and restaurants has changed that, prompting customers to tip more often.

Asthalter from Fulgurances explains, “There’s a screen where you can add a tip upfront, which helps avoid that awkward situation of not knowing if it’s included or not. This feature encourages tipping, as many French diners might not think to do so. Our staff requested this option to promote it.”

Elyssa Goldberg, a CMO of a Parisian start-up and author of the Substack newsletter Bokeh, recalls the exact moment she noticed this change, having taken photos to document it at the end of February.

Goldberg shares, “Two of my close friends visiting from LA asked, ‘Do you tip here? I thought tipping wasn’t done,’” to which she initially replied no. However, she soon reconsidered, stating, “I’ve been seeing more POS systems pop up since then. SumUp and Verifone are leading the way. With these systems becoming ubiquitous, they’ve started incorporating U.S. features. Tipping amounts are generally smaller than in the States, with 10 percent, 12 percent, and 15 percent being the most common recommendations.”

Catherine Down is a James Beard-nominated food writer who has called Paris home for the past ten years. She contributes to the New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Trip Advisor, and Travel & Luxury, among others. Ciao Down is her creative agency, specializing in culinary events, custom private food tours, and travel itineraries across France.Photo credits: Hamburger and tartare by Le Severo; euro coins by OKratsov/Shutterstock; cafe crowd by Kevin George/Shutterstock; menu board by Maziarz/Shutterstock